Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
Yep, free all or kroil patch(2) accelerator then carb out. Just patches, final patch Hornady one shot cleaner/lube. Brushes are used on the high volume rifles, wipe out in the bore while still warm.
I can not answer that. Never let any get on bluing. It does not immediately take off or harm clear coat.Since Free All eliminates rust... what does it do to bluing (a type of rust)?
I have used B Blaster for years on ARs with great success but they are anodized. I have been very hesitant to use it with blued firearms.
Painfully true.CLR works well but only use it on stainless steel. It will remove bluing from chrome/molly and any finish on stocks.
I'm not real keen about reversing a bronze brush in the bore when short-stroking to clean - so I use nylon brushes. I slather a coating of JB on a patch to wet it, then wrap it around the brush, then slather on a bit more JB. Then I go about 30 short (8" or so) strokes, change the patch and repeat. That usually gets all the carbon out of the throat and first 3" or 4 " where it accumulates."I use my old bronze brushes to apply the Flitz. I like that even better than the nylon ones. I have done barrel after barrel now. All nice and clean."
I never reverse the direction on a worn bronze bristle brush, never.
To my knowledge, you cannot reverse a properly fitting bronze brush of the correct caliber in a rifle bore. How often do you replace your brushes? In a couple of cases where I have helped fellows with severe hard carbon issues, we came to the conclusion that they had been using worn out brushes, for extended periods of time. On a lighter note, I looked up the MSDS for Free All and in addition to the usual petroleum distillates and oil, it has a fair dose of oleic acid. This caught my eye. I believe that olive oil can be as high as 80% oleic acid. Perhaps we have another experiment to do, sourced from our kitchensActually the only Free All I could find was in a spray can. It came with an extension tube. So I pulled back the bore guide and inserted the extension tube in the chamber as far as i could and gave it quick shot while holding my finger over the muzzle. Ine time my barrel made a very long extension tube and squirted out the end. Then i used a nylon brush to spread out the Free All in the bore. Then let it sit for about 10 to 12 hours and then went after it with the bronze brush. I found after the second session didn’t need to full stroke the barrel and just short stroked it.
HTH
David
IMO the use of worn out brushes by people who do not have a bore scope, and who take a white patch to mean that the bore is clean is the major source of serious hard carbon issues. All benchrest competitors that I am aware of buy brushes by the dozen and replace them often.I do!! Once they are loose, that barrel doesn't know the difference.
I'm still waiting on this evidence that bronze brushes have any ability to scratch steel. Still haven't seen it.
I think the best evidence to the contrary is how fast a brush is loose and worn out. The bronze is so soft.
IMO the use of worn out brushes by people who do not have a bore scope, and who take a white patch to mean that the bore is clean is the major source of serious hard carbon issues. All benchrest competitors that I am aware of buy brushes by the dozen and replace them often.
Going to get it, gotta have it.....I bought my Free All from NAPA the order # is. RE 12.
Hal
I will second this for sure. The JB seems to work the best but the other 2 work too. It takes a lot of scrubbing to get it out.Time + elbow grease and a patch worked back and forth in the throat with either JB, Iosso or Flitz
I will second this for sure. The JB seems to work the best but the other 2 work too. It takes a lot of scrubbing to get it out.