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SUCCESS at Last - Carbon in throat removal

Yep, free all or kroil patch(2) accelerator then carb out. Just patches, final patch Hornady one shot cleaner/lube. Brushes are used on the high volume rifles, wipe out in the bore while still warm.
 
look up the Speedy Gonzales J&B method he uses a Parker Hale Jag and a patch, certain way u wrap the patch and apply the JB to the patch with plenty of oil, I always use this method it works and the patch resembles a bullet once you start the cleaning strokes...works great..also the patch has to be a certain size per caliber
 
I have used Free All for years. A tool supplier sold me a six pack with some tools I bought for the shop and swore by it. I am down to my last can now. I still have the can of Kroil that I was using when I got the Free All. It is still half full.

Free All works much better than Kroil at removing carbon. Still, a patch wrapped around a brush with jb is much quicker.
 
Since Free All eliminates rust... what does it do to bluing (a type of rust)?
I have used PB Blaster for years on ARs with great success but they are anodized. I have been very hesitant to use it with blued firearms.
 
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Since Free All eliminates rust... what does it do to bluing (a type of rust)?
I have used B Blaster for years on ARs with great success but they are anodized. I have been very hesitant to use it with blued firearms.
I can not answer that. Never let any get on bluing. It does not immediately take off or harm clear coat.
 
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"I use my old bronze brushes to apply the Flitz. I like that even better than the nylon ones. I have done barrel after barrel now. All nice and clean."
I'm not real keen about reversing a bronze brush in the bore when short-stroking to clean - so I use nylon brushes. I slather a coating of JB on a patch to wet it, then wrap it around the brush, then slather on a bit more JB. Then I go about 30 short (8" or so) strokes, change the patch and repeat. That usually gets all the carbon out of the throat and first 3" or 4 " where it accumulates.
 
I never reverse the direction on a worn bronze bristle brush, never. All the way through, then pull back through, and this is an extreme case. Like Searcher, JB on a patch on a worn brush will work wonders on carbon as long as it is not hard baked on.
 
Just got through cleaning my Savage 223. After each firing session I have always cleaned the barrel. Do I have carbon build up? No. Does the barrel show throat or muzzle wear because of light cleaning? No. Is the barrel still very accurate? Yes.
 
After I clean a barrel I have always run a saturated kroil patch. When I go shoot, just run a dry patch to remove said kroil. Never had a carbon ring problem.
 
I usually throw them away by the time they are loose enough to reverse.

Mic your brush dia, they can be all over the map in dia, seen some over size brushes in the past.
 
Actually the only Free All I could find was in a spray can. It came with an extension tube. So I pulled back the bore guide and inserted the extension tube in the chamber as far as i could and gave it quick shot while holding my finger over the muzzle. Ine time my barrel made a very long extension tube and squirted out the end. Then i used a nylon brush to spread out the Free All in the bore. Then let it sit for about 10 to 12 hours and then went after it with the bronze brush. I found after the second session didn’t need to full stroke the barrel and just short stroked it.

HTH

David
To my knowledge, you cannot reverse a properly fitting bronze brush of the correct caliber in a rifle bore. How often do you replace your brushes? In a couple of cases where I have helped fellows with severe hard carbon issues, we came to the conclusion that they had been using worn out brushes, for extended periods of time. On a lighter note, I looked up the MSDS for Free All and in addition to the usual petroleum distillates and oil, it has a fair dose of oleic acid. This caught my eye. I believe that olive oil can be as high as 80% oleic acid. Perhaps we have another experiment to do, sourced from our kitchens :)
 
I do!! Once they are loose, that barrel doesn't know the difference.

I'm still waiting on this evidence that bronze brushes have any ability to scratch steel. Still haven't seen it.

I think the best evidence to the contrary is how fast a brush is loose and worn out. The bronze is so soft.
IMO the use of worn out brushes by people who do not have a bore scope, and who take a white patch to mean that the bore is clean is the major source of serious hard carbon issues. All benchrest competitors that I am aware of buy brushes by the dozen and replace them often.
 
IMO the use of worn out brushes by people who do not have a bore scope, and who take a white patch to mean that the bore is clean is the major source of serious hard carbon issues. All benchrest competitors that I am aware of buy brushes by the dozen and replace them often.

True!!!

They wear out very fast.... but old worn out ones can be useful for applying Flitz in the throat.

You can always go up a caliber in brush size.
 
After Fclass match this Saturday, I had the easiest clean up ever. A couple of hundred dollars worth of various cleaners is sitting on my shelf, and typically after soaking over night with all of these you name it, I have needed to use Iosso to clean out the carbon via many strokes. So I got home and wet a few patches with Gumout carb cleaner and ran them through the barrel; just before bed a few strokes with the brass brush followed by another Gumout patch to work overnight. The next morning after 20 brush strokes the barrel looked very clean with the borescope, so I followed with a patch of Eds Red to finish the clean and lube. A little black came out so I brushed five more strokes and it was perfect. I haven't had it this easy since the barrel was brand new. This is the easiest, most effecient regiment I have found. Perhaps the application of different functioning chemicals adds an effective mechanism as well. So twice now to remove the carbon I have not needed an abrasive, which is comforting.
 
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