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SUCCESS at Last - Carbon in throat removal

Flitz is good but I use automotive paint rubbing compound. They have 2 grades rubbing and polishing, I find the rubbing much better and easier than flitz . Plus its alot cheaper . Walmart has it in the auto section near the Polishing products . Its in a white or greenshort round tub .
 
For carbon in the throat I park a patch soaked in Slip 2000 in the throat overnight then twist a nylon brush in the throat. I don't wait too long to do a good cleaning while it is still possible.
I use VFG pellets with Iosso Bore Paste for carbon in the barrel. Once in the bore the cleaning rod is twisted which screws the pellet farther back on the tapered adapter which increases the OD of the pellet and creates more friction between the bore and pellet.
Look like itty bitty rolls of toilet paper.

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After every shooting session a cleaning with Slip 2000. First wet patches then wet bronze brushing. Now let the chemicals do their work , allowing them to soak in the bbl.
Carbon is an element so u cannot dissolve it, u can only loosen/break it free from the surface.
If u clean without brushing, ur bbl. is not getting Clean.
 
After every shooting session a cleaning with Slip 2000. First wet patches then wet bronze brushing. Now let the chemicals do their work , allowing them to soak in the bbl.
Carbon is an element so u cannot dissolve it, u can only loosen/break it free from the surface.
If u clean without brushing, ur bbl. is not getting Clean.
Is this the one you're using? Do you think it is better than Boretech C4?
 
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The longer carbon is left on a surface -the more difficult it is to remove. My mentors taught me to clean the barrel when the match event is over while the barrel is still warm. Ditto on the carbon on the case necks-they get cleaned as soon as the relay is over.
 
Is this the one you're using? Do you think it is better than Boretech C4?
Yes , Slip 2000 is the best to remove carbon. U need to brush it in and let it soak. It is a surfactant and will loosen the carbon . The carbon is best removed as soon as possible. Don’t let it sit n harden.
If u have a bore scope, use it to help refine ur cleaning technique.
 
+1 on the VFG pellets with either Iosso or Flitz to clean heavy carbon fouling in a barrel. But do this only when the barrel is heavily fouled and regular methods won't get the carbon out. Iosso and Flitz are abrasive and if done regularly will probably shorten barrel life. Also make sure you clean all of that abrasive stuff out of the barrel when you are finished.

As for the carbon ring where the case neck ends I use an oversized bronze brush soaked with Seafoam (automotive valve cleaner). When used properly this stuff will clean baked on carbon deposits off of engine valves. I attach the brush to a short rigid (non rotating) cleaning rod and lock it down with an extra nut so that it doesn't come loose when rotated back and forth. I then insert it just enough to get to where the ring is (about 3/8 to 1/2 inch after you feel some resistance) I rotate it back and forth and slightly in and out then check with a borescope. This method doesn't use abrasives and is effective if done on a regular basis. If you let the ring build up and harden over a number of shooting sessions then you will have to use an abrasive cleaner like Iosso on the brush instead of the Seafoam. Again I don't recommend the regular use of cleaners containing abrasives especially in the throat area.
 
+1 on the VFG pellets with either Iosso or Flitz to clean heavy carbon fouling in a barrel. But do this only when the barrel is heavily fouled and regular methods won't get the carbon out. Iosso and Flitz are abrasive and if done regularly will probably shorten barrel life. Also make sure you clean all of that abrasive stuff out of the barrel when you are finished.

As for the carbon ring where the case neck ends I use an oversized bronze brush soaked with Seafoam (automotive valve cleaner). When used properly this stuff will clean baked on carbon deposits off of engine valves. I attach the brush to a short rigid (non rotating) cleaning rod and lock it down with an extra nut so that it doesn't come loose when rotated back and forth. I then insert it just enough to get to where the ring is (about 3/8 to 1/2 inch after you feel some resistance) I rotate it back and forth and slightly in and out then check with a borescope. This method doesn't use abrasives and is effective if done on a regular basis. If you let the ring build up and harden over a number of shooting sessions then you will have to use an abrasive cleaner like Iosso on the brush instead of the Seafoam. Again I don't recommend the regular use of cleaners containing abrasives especially in the throat area.

You could put Flitz on a rag and hold it on a stainless barrel in a lathe spinning at 1000 rpm it it won't hardly even raise a polish... much less remove material.

I don't think Flitz could scratch auto clear coat. Which is like butter in comparison to steel.
 
You could put Flitz on a rag and hold it on a stainless barrel in a lathe spinning at 1000 rpm it it won't hardly even raise a polish... much less remove material.

I don't think Flitz could scratch auto clear coat. Which is like butter in comparison to steel.
Flitz is a metal polish and there are different grades of it. I use flitz to polish the inside of all my sizing dies. By hand I can polish the inside of the die to a mirror finish. It takes a little time but it does work. I use the blue (paste) first and then the green (liquid) flitz. The black you see on the rag after polishing metal is removed material. Granted it is only a very minute ammount of material that is removed but it is enough to smooth the surface and create a shine. The polished dies require much less force and lube when resizing and greatly reduce the chances of sticking a case. I imagine it would have basically the same effect on the inside of a barrel. Iosso seems to be even more abrasive.
 
Flitz is a metal polish and there are different grades of it. I use flitz to polish the inside of all my sizing dies. By hand I can polish the inside of the die to a mirror finish. It takes a little time but it does work. I use the blue (paste) first and then the green (liquid) flitz. The black you see on the rag after polishing metal is removed material. Granted it is only a very minute ammount of material that is removed but it is enough to smooth the surface and create a shine. The polished dies require much less force and lube when resizing and greatly reduce the chances of sticking a case. I imagine it would have basically the same effect on the inside of a barrel. Iosso seems to be even more abrasive.

Flitz BARREL CLEANER

NOT

Flitz abrasive. Two different things.

A barrel is NOT the same thing as a mirror polished die. But I guess people are going to believe whatever they want.

Bullets are way more abrasive than Flitz barrel cleaner I can assure you of that. Not to mention the carbon and fire cracking.

I broke my rule discussing barrel cleaning. It always goes to these same conclusions.
 
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