SUCCESS at Last - Carbon in throat removal

[SeabeeKen]

OK, Just cleaned my 250AI with freeall. I ran a soaked patch down bore. About1 minute later, 20 strokes with a bronze brush. Dry patched out. Couldn't post videos as they were too large so I took a snapshot from the video before and after near muzzle and about 1" in from of the freebore. Rifle had about 40 rounds thru it. After freeall, I could see slight traces of hard carbon. Id say freeall removed most of what was in there without soaking. After this, I ran a patch of Prolix thru and 10 strokes of bronze brush. This removed the remaining carbon. Prolix is my usual coating in my bores as it leaves a dry lube and prevents rust. I do it to all my rifles, stainless or moly. Overall, I thought freeall did a great job and another 10-20 strokes may have got it completely clean. Use freeall in a well ventilated space. The vapors are strong and not good for you. The odor reminds me of nail polish remover.

 

[David Milisock]

OK, Just cleaned my 250AI with freeall. I ran a soaked patch down bore. About1 minute later, 20 strokes with a bronze brush. Dry patched out. Couldn't post videos as they were too large so I took a snapshot from the video before and after near muzzle and about 1" in from of the freebore. Rifle had about 40 rounds thru it. After freeall, I could see slight traces of hard carbon. Id say freeall removed most of what was in there without soaking. After this, I ran a patch of Prolix thru and 10 strokes of bronze brush. This removed the remaining carbon. Prolix is my usual coating in my bores as it leaves a dry lube and prevents rust. I do it to all my rifles, stainless or moly. Overall, I thought freeall did a great job and another 10-20 strokes may have got it completely clean. Use freeall in a well ventilated space. The vapors are strong and not good for you. The odor reminds me of nail polish remover.

How much more accurate is the rifle now?

 

[SeabeeKen]

How much more accurate is the rifle now?

Ill find out tomorrow. Never had accuracy issues with it. A few foulers and it should be good to go. Just put lower scope rings on it so need to zero again. Cant get lower, .020 between power ring and rail now

 

[PigButtons]

Here we gooooooo! Product 76....
I bought some of this stuff for myself for Christmas and find it to be very effective, especially when alternating with Boretech's C4.

CHAMELEON GEL, 2oz TUBE

Chameleon Gel btck-40002 BTCK-40002 Chameleon Gel | Copper Cleaning Gel - Best Gun Gel Cleaners at Bore Tech Chameleon Gel is an easy to use copper cleaning gel that requires no mixing and cleans up quickly for a shiny barrel every time. This gun gel helps remove even the most severe cases...

www.boretech.com

 

[jelenko]

How do you know?
Do you own a borescope?

That's the third time he's made the exact same statement. Ignore button works for me.

 

[David Milisock]

Ill find out tomorrow. Never had accuracy issues with it. A few foulers and it should be good to go. Just put lower scope rings on it so need to zero again. Cant get lower, .020 between power ring and rail now

Please let us know about the accuracy. I've got a fellow posting about carbon ring and accuracy issues with a 6MM ARC using 6.5 Grendel brass.

I have Hornady once fired brass but haven't reloaded yet, I'm still getting a 500 yard iron sight zero with the 105 Black factory ammo.

 

[SeabeeKen]

Please let us know about the accuracy. I've got a fellow posting about carbon ring and accuracy issues with a 6MM ARC using 6.5 Grendel brass.

I have Hornady once fired brass but haven't reloaded yet, I'm still getting a 500 yard iron sight zero with the 105 Black factory ammo.

Will do. Went to range but so packed I couldnt get in. Ill go this week. I dont expect any accuracy issues.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I had a thought.

You can take straight nitromethane and put it on auto clear and it will not even haze it.

But!!!

If you take the same nitromethane and put it on a rag and let it sit it will melt the paint right down to the steel.

Maybe a long bore sized mop that could be soaked and stuck in the bore would be different than a simple coating.

 

[BoydAllen]

After Fclass match this Saturday, I had the easiest clean up ever. A couple of hundred dollars worth of various cleaners is sitting on my shelf, and typically after soaking over night with all of these you name it, I have needed to use Iosso to clean out the carbon via many strokes. So I got home and wet a few patches with Gumout carb cleaner and ran them through the barrel; just before bed a few strokes with the brass brush followed by another Gumout patch to work overnight. The next morning after 20 brush strokes the barrel looked very clean with the borescope, so I followed with a patch of Eds Red to finish the clean and lube. A little black came out so I brushed five more strokes and it was perfect. I haven't had it this easy since the barrel was brand new. This is the easiest, most effecient regiment I have found. Perhaps the application of different functioning chemicals adds an effective mechanism as well. So twice now to remove the carbon I have not needed an abrasive, which is comforting.

I am always glad to read about new (to gun cleaning) products. Your post sparked my curiosity so I looked up the safety data sheet. I think that I would not work with this in an enclosed space, would wear gloves, and pay attention to what I was doing.

https://gumout.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/29216-Gumout-Carburetor-Cleaner-EN.pdf

 

[Dimner]

Hi yall. New to the site. I'm going down the whole tikka prefit precision rifle rabbit hole.

I realize this is an old thread, and I have been through all 14 pages of posts and I'm hoping someone could clarify the prevailing opinion on taking a rifle barrel from fouled to bare and clean.

I'm see the most successful product combinations are
Free All
Bortech C4 carbon Remover
Iosso Bore Polishing paste.

So let's say with the 270 winchester barrel that im going to remove from my tikka, what would be the process for getting it cleaned down to bare metal?

I do have a telesong borescope, I've used it on the 270, but based on the pics I'm seeing in this thread I'm not getting all the hard baked carbon out. So it's time to figure this out before my new barrel arrives.

 

[skeeljc]

Soak with BoreTech C4 for 10 to 20 minutes. Then at least 10 strokes (both ways) with a bronze brush. Then 2 or 3 dry patches. Repeat until the dry patch comes out clean.

 

[jelenko]

If you've already used a bronze brush with a good solvent [e.g., BoreTech C4] and there's carbon still in their, I'd go with Iosso. To be effective, you do need a tight fitting patch wrapped around a Parker Hale jag. I like to get the patch with the Iosso tight enough that it needs some lube to get started in the bore. I've found I need to fold the patches over themselves to get it tight enough.

Once the patch with Iosso is started in the bore, just short stroke it where the hard carbon is - you can see where with the Teslong [as you know].

I've found the Iosso loses it's effectiveness after 10 cycles [1 cycle = in and back]

Good luck!

 

[skeeljc]

If you've already used a bronze brush with a good solvent [e.g., BoreTech C4] and there's carbon still in their, I'd go with Iosso. To be effective, you do need a tight fitting patch wrapped around a Parker Hale jag. I like to get the patch with the Iosso tight enough that it needs some lube to get started in the bore. I've found I need to fold the patches over themselves to get it tight enough.

Once the patch with Iosso is started in the bore, just short stroke it where the hard carbon is - you can see where with the Teslong [as you know].

I've found the Iosso loses it's effectiveness after 10 cycles [1 cycle = in and back]

Good luck!

I lube the bore first with Kroil.

The key to getting the patch to fit well is to use Iosso on the first section of the patcch to start wrapping it around the Parker Hale jag and then finish off with a good coat od Iosso to hold the patch in place. You may need to start with a large patch like a 2-1/4" square and cut it to fit properly. Once you find the correct patch dimensions write them down so it will be easier next time.

 

[Gil P.]

Hi yall. New to the site. I'm going down the whole tikka prefit precision rifle rabbit hole.

I realize this is an old thread, and I have been through all 14 pages of posts and I'm hoping someone could clarify the prevailing opinion on taking a rifle barrel from fouled to bare and clean.

I'm see the most successful product combinations are
Free All
Bortech C4 carbon Remover
Iosso Bore Polishing paste.

So let's say with the 270 winchester barrel that im going to remove from my tikka, what would be the process for getting it cleaned down to bare metal?

I do have a telesong borescope, I've used it on the 270, but based on the pics I'm seeing in this thread I'm not getting all the hard baked carbon out. So it's time to figure this out before my new barrel arrives.

Are you using a new bronze brush? After one use you should replace the brush, two uses at the most.
Montana Xtreme Copper Killer has worked the best for me for carbon and copper.

 

[jelenko]

After one use you should replace the brush, two uses at the most

I haven't found that to be necessary. I've checked the inside of the bore with a borescope and see no difference in the amount of carbon removed by brushing with a bronze brush until the brush is quite worn.