CLR is not recommended for any metals other than chrome or stainless steel. I have heard reports that it can affect bluing if not removed quickly. That and it's incompatibility with other materials found on gun parts ( wood, painted, coated , or sealed surfaces) has led me to avoid it's use.
SUCCESS at Last - Carbon in throat removal
- Thread starter dstoenner
- Start date
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
So, the dark color is just the color of the surface of the metal?
Thanks
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
To tell you the truth, if a person cleans THOROUGHLY with a brinze brush and really strong penetrating oil, I do not think carbon builds up. If the person cleans thoroughly. Which is something on the order of 60 strokes per 100 rounds (but that is rough estimate).
Carb cleaner... don't get that on anything or it will strip anything it touches.
Yes sir. Steel just like most everything changes color when superheated. Also there is some color shift even from the bore scope light at certain angles. But if there was carbon you couldn't see the fine lines where the steel is cracking as it begins to degrade. It is minor right now, when it gets bad the lands will no longer be visible and the cracks will be more pronounced. Lands tend to go first as they are sticking up into the blast of heat from the charge and the bullet is pressing into them harder and eroding them faster.
I use this, Carbon Ring Remover. Only the front end past 45 degree angle is sharpened. Spin it it just cuts the built up ring. It bottoms out on the shoulder, since the reamer is not sharpened, it won't move the headspace. I specified it to be carbide as the HSS might not last cutting the hard carbon.
It cost me a couple of iterations working with JGS grinders to get what I want. If interested contact Sarah at JGS, she can talk through it. It is based on the Wylde reamer.
The 1st one we did was based on the TX JRs Reamer back in 2019. It is now being used by the team
It cost me a couple of iterations working with JGS grinders to get what I want. If interested contact Sarah at JGS, she can talk through it. It is based on the Wylde reamer.
The 1st one we did was based on the TX JRs Reamer back in 2019. It is now being used by the team
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dstoenner
Silver $$ Contributor
The photos were of my barrel after being cleaned using montana extreme bore cleaner then kroil/jb bore paste. I personally think that the black is polished carbon on top of the surface. The second picture shows streaks of black polished further down the barrel. Right now i am waiting for some bronze brushes to come in. I did get some KG1 and just put in my barrel a few hours ago. Pushed a tight patch and the patch is gray.
I’ll know more Thursday or so when the brushes come in and i can experiment a little.
stay tuned film at 11
David
On a 222 after cleaning with PatchOut, patches and nylon brush, the borescope showed the carbon ring, a couple wet patches of CarbOut and a 20 minute soak then nylon brush and the length of the ring was reduced by 1/2. I need to keep up on my cleaning/scoping to verify but first peek was encouraging.
dstoenner
Silver $$ Contributor
Update from the trenches. My bronze brushes came this afternoon. My barrel had been soaking in Kroil all night. I attached a 6mm bronze brush, dipped the brush in the kroil bottle and took 10 strokes. Then patched. OH MY GOODNESS was that patch black. I did it again with some Flitz. Mine is polish and I think you guys were saying to get flitz bore cleaner. So I cut down to 10 strokes again. Patched it all out. I can tell the carbon is thinner. I am making progress.
I tried O'Reilly for the Free All but they didn't have it nor does it seem that this store stocks it. Next is going to be Advanced Auto tomorrow.
Here are some pictures
First the throat
Next is about 5 inches down the bore
What do you think of KG-1 and work the bronze brush after I have soaked the bore and then let it sit?
I tried O'Reilly for the Free All but they didn't have it nor does it seem that this store stocks it. Next is going to be Advanced Auto tomorrow.
Here are some pictures
First the throat
Next is about 5 inches down the bore
What do you think of KG-1 and work the bronze brush after I have soaked the bore and then let it sit?
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
I don't think any of those chemicals make a difference at this point. Oil, brush, and abrasive. And way more strokes than you think.
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
I never tried Iosso with a bore scope. I found Flitz to be on the order of twice as effective as Jb. I'm sure they all work on a bronze brush.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
Hmm. I'll try it again. More effective in removing that carbon is good.
Exactly what i was gonna ask about.
I know i seen one well known shooter use it on their brakes, he warned me to never let the stuff touch blueing , but i often wonder if he uses it in his bores ?
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
We are in a new era of shooting because shooters of ordinary means can now all afford their own bore scope. With a Teslong bore scope we can prevent hard carbon by making sure that we have removed all powder fouling each time we clean.
A friend who has successfully used IOSSO on a soft nylon brush about every 100 rounds on a PPC burning LT32 has switched to a procedure involving Kroil at the start of every cleaning, and has been able to stop using IOSSO. He had gotten good barrel life and accuracy using the IOSSO, but I believe the incentive for coming up with another approach was the time it takes to completely remove abrasive cleaners from a barrel. Doing what he does with Kroil, every time he cleans has prevented an accumulation of powder fouling that would eventually become hard carbon.
Based on experience with a friend, I believe that removing extensive hard carbon is very problematic, even with the use of abrasives, and there is some risk of harming the barrel if you are not very careful, and perhaps even if you are.
A friend who has successfully used IOSSO on a soft nylon brush about every 100 rounds on a PPC burning LT32 has switched to a procedure involving Kroil at the start of every cleaning, and has been able to stop using IOSSO. He had gotten good barrel life and accuracy using the IOSSO, but I believe the incentive for coming up with another approach was the time it takes to completely remove abrasive cleaners from a barrel. Doing what he does with Kroil, every time he cleans has prevented an accumulation of powder fouling that would eventually become hard carbon.
Based on experience with a friend, I believe that removing extensive hard carbon is very problematic, even with the use of abrasives, and there is some risk of harming the barrel if you are not very careful, and perhaps even if you are.
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