So, if you were shooting a 600 yard f-open match next month with this exact rifle/load, where would you set the tuner initially, and then what would you with the information above as conditions change through out the day?
Are you talking to me? I'd say 14 or 23 but the test is supposed to be 15 groups so I can see groups on either side of what appears to be a sweet spot. I understand about wind, especially this time of year. Ultimately, it's no different than trying to tune in the wind without a tuner. Best advice is find better conditions. A switchy headwind is hard to shoot and I'd be guessing at which groups you got caught in a switch on. There was more info regarding which way I'd go and why in the thread that was removed. I've been asked not to post regarding that thread but was also told that he might put it back up when he has time to clean it up, so I'm in a tough spot here. The shots fired in a switch need to be marked and fired again. I know it's damn near impossible to get 45 perfect shots off, so that's why. You have to understand, you're asking me to decipher an incomplete test fired in a nasty tuning condition and to pick which groups are tune related and which are shooter error. Group shape and position help, that's how I come to 14 or 23, but the test needs to be better. Don't get me wrong, it's better than some I see but there is a rhyme and a reason why I'm very specific about how to do the test and that any shot fired in a switch be marked and shot again. You're on the right track though.
I'm predominantly looking for a sweet spot at top and at bottom, followed or precluded by a group that is straight vertical, followed by another that goes diagonal up and to the right, consecutively. A switchy headwind can cause the vertical but it won't cause groups that go up and to the right, from a rh twist bbl. BUT, wind might keep those shapes from appearing, which is what this looks like to me. Take say 22, 21 and 20 for example. We have a good group at 22, straight vertical at 21 and 20 might have been up and to the right, if not for wind making it go pretty much straight vertical.
Wind matters a lot. Would you do standard load work(fine tuning) in the condition you were shooting in? Now imagine doing it at 600 or 1000.
You're not doing too bad and it looks like the gun and load are gonna shoot but fine tuning needs to be in the best conditions possible. You have to trust every single shot, or fire again. Once you get through this part of it, you don't ever really have to do it again, but it's not a bad idea. You can go to the top and bottom sweet spots and work around those.
