AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
Keep in mind...regarding 'square marks' on the bullet...those marks are fairly meaningless, in and of itself.
The width of the lands of the barrel, throat (leade) angle, neck tension and bullet ogive profile all play a role in how the marks look. For example, 'square marks' on a .30 cal. Kreiger is going to be a lot different than 'square marks' on a Lilja .30 three groove.
Since I'm a pretty simple sort, I just seat the bullet progressively shorter until the marks disappear then record that seating stem length as the 'touch point'. Then, simply adjusting the seating stem shorter to get the 'jam/seat' is simple. For example, if the seating stem 'touch point' length is 1.650 and I want .020 'jam/seat', make the seating stem length 1.630 and there you have it.
Whatever the marks are, they are...you know where the bullet is relative to the lands and that's the important thing. The target will tell you the rest. Starting with a good amount of jam/seat and neck tension leaves you only one way to go and simplifies the tuning process, no matter what the bore size is.
Not getting the seating length correct is the biggest single thing I see people struggling with. It's basic stuff but there's so much incorrect info out there, it's no wonder people futz it up.
The late Dick Wright had an excellent article in Precision Shooting on the process. This process should be made a 'sticky' in the reloading section!
Good shootin'.
-Al
The width of the lands of the barrel, throat (leade) angle, neck tension and bullet ogive profile all play a role in how the marks look. For example, 'square marks' on a .30 cal. Kreiger is going to be a lot different than 'square marks' on a Lilja .30 three groove.

Since I'm a pretty simple sort, I just seat the bullet progressively shorter until the marks disappear then record that seating stem length as the 'touch point'. Then, simply adjusting the seating stem shorter to get the 'jam/seat' is simple. For example, if the seating stem 'touch point' length is 1.650 and I want .020 'jam/seat', make the seating stem length 1.630 and there you have it.
Whatever the marks are, they are...you know where the bullet is relative to the lands and that's the important thing. The target will tell you the rest. Starting with a good amount of jam/seat and neck tension leaves you only one way to go and simplifies the tuning process, no matter what the bore size is.
Not getting the seating length correct is the biggest single thing I see people struggling with. It's basic stuff but there's so much incorrect info out there, it's no wonder people futz it up.
The late Dick Wright had an excellent article in Precision Shooting on the process. This process should be made a 'sticky' in the reloading section!

Good shootin'.
