Induction brass annealer redux

[Gina1]

Actually the one in the picture is an extra. Any takers? Only costs $1,000!!

HEY...... you all !!! with all this "professional" builds your going to scare away the builders with a small understanding of electronics/electricity. .
Nice looking board itchy

 

[kit-808]

12V PWM PC CPU Fan Temperature Control Speed Controller Module High-Temp Alarm

ebay nice and cheap, going to see how they work

 

[Gina1]

12V PWM PC CPU Fan Temperature Control Speed Controller Module High-Temp Alarm

ebay nice and cheap, going to see how they work

Good idea...High temp alarm.... if the coolant pump should fail. But I'm wondering why a PWM controller for the fan/fans ?

 

[GrocMax]

12V PWM PC CPU Fan Temperature Control Speed Controller Module High-Temp Alarm

ebay nice and cheap, going to see how they work

Looks like it would work fine. Notes- only the #1 fan is temp controlled, #2 and #3 speed is set by the pots. Uses a 50K thermistor, can substitute another 50K tab mount or whatever mount thermistor if needed.

 

[GrocMax]

Good idea...High temp alarm.... if the coolant pump should fail. But I'm wondering why a PWM controller for the fan/fans ?

Speed control. 4 wire fans are already set up internally to use a PWM signal input for speed control. Use a high RPM fan and only let it scream when it needs to? Because we can? Use junk 4 wire PC fans?

 

[Gina1]

Speed control. 4 wire fans are already set up internally to use a PWM signal input for speed control. Use a high RPM fan and only let it scream when it needs to? Because we can? Use junk 4 wire PC fans?

My point being, just run a regular fan 12VDC or 110VAC, full voltage, all the time. No big deal, no extra circuits. .............. KISS.................

 

[Terry Altom]

My point being, just run a regular fan 12VDC or 110VAC, full voltage, all the time. No big deal, no extra circuits. .............. KISS.................

I like the idea of an over temperature alarm, but wouldn't bother with additional fan speed controls since this is only running a few minutes at a time.

 

[GrocMax]

I plan on filling up a Dillon case feed hopper and going to town.

 

[Gina1]

Vide

I plan on filling up a Dillon case feed hopper and going to town.

Video please !!! BTW how far is town from you ??

 

[GrocMax]

Vide


Video please !!!

Gonna be a few weeks yet but I'll try.

Mostly high volume varminting here between myself and a couple buddies we have a whole bunch of cases that could use some TLC, so volume/ease of use is a priority for me vs. a comp shooter who only needs to do 50-100 cases at a time.

 

[Gina1]

To those of you builders that are working a self feeding "GinaErick" annealer, this link will take you to a glass tube site. I'm sure you can find just the right size feed/drop tube for your cases (both ID & OD) Min order is $50, but maybe you could figure away to split it with other builders.
Good luck

Gina

http://www.technicalglass.com/product_pages/fused_quartz_tubing/fused_quartz_tubing.html

 

[GrocMax]

This would be the way to use the OPB100Z IR optical switch with the timer. I see no reason it couldn't be parallel with a manual switch. LED power resistor values of 39 ohm for 5v and 120 ohm for 12v result in 80 mA current, unit is rated for 100 mA continuous, you can use higher resistance values but this will reduce your distance between LED and phototransistor where it will work reliably. I tested this on breadboard with both 5v and 12v.

I'm sure there are a wide variety of optical switches that will work, this is a cheap one that was available locally.

Functional description- LED and PhotoTransistor are mounted in a hole drilled thru the baseplate just above the trap door aimed at each other. When the IR light from the LED is seen by the PT, the PT turns ON, the voltage from the 10k resistor is pulled low near 0v, the 2N2222 is OFF, timer pin 2 is floating. When a case drops in and light is blocked, voltage flows from 10K resistor to 2N2222 base and turns it ON, and timer pin 2 is pulled to 0v turning it ON.

 

[GrocMax]

To those of you builders that are working a self feeding "GinaErick" annealer, this link will take you to a glass tube site. I'm sure you can find just the right size feed/drop tube for your cases (both ID & OD) Min order is $50, but maybe you could figure away to split it with other builders.
Good luck

Gina

http://www.technicalglass.com/product_pages/fused_quartz_tubing/fused_quartz_tubing.html

I was just going to use a piece of cheap teflon tube and hang it above the hot bits an inch or so. Teflon is good for 450F. Even polycarbonate might be OK. Also have a teflon 'funnel' an inch long that fits in the base plate that is case family specific that will guide the case down and keep it from bouncing out.

 

[GrocMax]

Here's the schematic for the drop tube mounted reflective IR optical stop switch. Must have a 5v supply.

 

[GrocMax]

Here's one way to hook up the C2S Counter (visual match to B3S Timer) if you wish to count things. Counter input pin is limited to 30v DC.
Counter input can be set to count on high voltage or low, in this example it sees the trapdoor solenoid operation.

EDIT: Forgot the two 0v pins need to be connected.

 

[kit-808]

you legend GrocMax
drawings
Have ordered both and will see how they work

 

[Gina1]

Got to love the CAD drawings/program, GrocMax.
Nice work

 

[GrocMax]

Got to love the CAD drawings/program, GrocMax.
Nice work

Free electrical CAD program called TinyCAD.

https://github.com/angryee/light-costume/wiki/TinyCAD

Recommend replacing the symbol libraries as described.

 

[SheepDog]

You can also get a very good CAD program called "Libre CAD" it's open source software so free to use and share.
It's available for three platforms that I know of for sure; MS, MAC, and Linux.

 

[bertn]

Ahhhh, adding in the little red wheels. My gut feel is the power supplies were not designed to carry that much current, ether the wires coming out of the power supplies or the land prints on the power supply circuit boards. Somewhere along the lime there is a going to be a sufficient voltage drop when you pull that much current going to the inductor PCB.
But what do I know... It may work. Go ahead and try it, and let us know it it works. This is every bodies build.
Good luck
Gina

Thanks everyone for your input regarding the pc power supply limitations.
I have dropped that idea and will use the two that I hooked up in series for some other project down the road.

Today my B3S timer arrived so it's starting to itch again LOL
Still waiting for the induction board, volt/amp meter and relay though

I'm working on a new low cost power supply solution from 2 hacked microwave oven transformers (MOT).
(have more time than money I guess haha.) This should give me more amps and then I'm not limited by overprotection circuits in a PC PSU.

Have removed the secondary windings on one transformer and rewound it with 12ga wire, still need to do the other one.
When I power up the transformer primaries in series then they each run on about 60v input and 12.5v output.
So when I connect the secondaries in series I will have about 24v.
It's AC so I still need to find a rectifier to convert to DC. (ideas for low cost rectifier
solutions are welcome)
Unfortunately I don't have an amp meter so have no idea yet what the current output is.

The annealer will be heavy as h3ll once done....the MOT's alone weigh 9.5 lb each.
I decided on using two mot's with 60v input because running one on 120v will most likely overheat.

That's the update for now, Merry Christmas everyone!