Annealing till glow or 750??

[DngBat7]

So I have an annealeez. I also have 750 tempilaq. With the cheap hornady brass I have, if I turn the lights out the brass gets the deep glow right at 750 degrees. Perfect. Then when I do the lapua brass I turned to the same neck thickness to the hornady and run it through the annealer I see no glow when the tempilaq disappears at 750. Even if I slow down the speed a lot, way past the 750 mark, I still don’t see a glo. What the heck. I do not want to super over anneal the brass and ruin it. Thoughts please

 

[muleman69]

I have the same set up and experienced what you have. Anymore I go with what tempilaq tells me (when it melts in the neck I call it good) seems to work as I have not split any necks and they seem to resize with ease. $.002

 

[DngBat7]

I have the same set up and experienced what you have. Anymore I go with what tempilaq tells me (when it melts in the neck I call it good) seems to work as I have not split any necks and they seem to resize with ease. $.002

Feels better to know problem is not exclusive to me

 

[muleman69]

Feels better to know problem is not exclusive to me

No not just you, my forum name should be (trial and error )....lol

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Carbon in the necks?

 

[DngBat7]

Carbon in the necks?

I brushed them out, but did not tumble. So probably, yes

Will that cause the problem?

 

[L.Sherm]

I have also experienced the same thing on different brands of brass, I often wonder if it's the neck thickness.

 

[jepp2]

Melting 750° Tempilaq and red glow in a dark room are 2 distinctly different temperatures. 150-200° apart.

 

[lpreddick]

I trust the brass over a chemical. I find the glow point, them change speed or torch to just below a slight glow.

 

[group therapy]

Carbon in the necks?

im thinking about annealing, why did you ask that? thanks in advance. bryant ( I leave the carbon in my necks for lubricity and don't know what I don't know about annealing)

 

[riflewoman]

If the brass is at dull red glow, you’re hotter than 750. As I have mentioned many times in many threads about annealing, if you’re stopping at 750F, you’re wasting your time and are NOT annealing your brass. It needs to be hotter than that.

 

[DngBat7]

If the brass is at dull red glow, you’re hotter than 750. As I have mentioned many times in many threads about annealing, if you’re stopping at 750F, you’re wasting your time and are NOT annealing your brass. It needs to be hotter than that.

I did read your posts. And did some additional reading. So I’m on board. I just thought it was weird in trying this, my hornady glows right at 750. The lapua took almost twice as long to get a tiny glo. Same caliber. Same neckwall thickness. I was nervous to really do the lapua because it felt like to long a time

 

[Papa Charlie]

I did read your posts. And did some additional reading. So I’m on board. I just thought it was weird in trying this, my hornady glows right at 750. The lapua took almost twice as long to get a tiny glo. Same caliber. Same neckwall thickness. I was nervous to really do the lapua because it felt like to long a time

The difference could be due to different percentages of copper and zinc which make up the brass.

 

[Mulligan]

After a bit of testing, I threw the 750 tempilque away.
Go with the dull red glow in a dark room.
CW

 

[1shot]

One mans dark glow is another mans brilliant glow. There are a lot of variables in play when you depend on visual comparisons. If you have multiple reloading on the same brass without getting any split necks, I’ll say your doing it right.
Just my .02€ worth.

Lloyd

 

[ckaberna]

After a bit of testing, I threw the 750 tempilque away.
Go with the dull red glow in a dark room.
CW

I wish you would have sent the tempilaq to me. I would have paid shipping. My experience has been to get it to melt while on "inside" of case mouth, then another 1-2 seconds. Yielded good results for me.

 

[Tommie]

We all know that brass differs in thickness and composition. Variances between manufacturers are well documented. Even something as “simple” as differing lot numbers of the same brand can show variance. How can 750 degrees be a hard and fast rule?

 

[ckaberna]

From my research this is the temp at which annealing begins but it also requires a dwell time at this temp. Since I cant "hold" the 750F steady and temp is still increasing the extra 1-2 seconds seems to achieve what I am looking for.
BTW, I have actually turned the lights out once while doing this and could not see any glow. I have read that if the glow is achieved then it is quite possibly over annealed? I believe there are different "states" of annealing and while maybe not scientifically "totally and thoroughly" annealed, this method keeps my Lapua brass sizing consistently and no split necks yet.

 

[Ned Ludd]

I've annealed necks by the "dull red in a darkened room" approach for years. I've never had a single issue using that method and it doesn't "over-anneal" the brass. Annealed is annealed, just as a "basal" state is a basal state, no more, no less. This kind of annealing debate by a bunch of people that have little to no expertise in metallurgy happens here on a regular basis. There are a few that clearly know what they're talking about. For the rest, it's largely misinformed opinion, nothing more.

 

[fatelvis]

If the brass is at dull red glow, you’re hotter than 750. As I have mentioned many times in many threads about annealing, if you’re stopping at 750F, you’re wasting your time and are NOT annealing your brass. It needs to be hotter than that.

I value many of your tips and advice. Thank you for sharing your experience.
What, in your opinion, is the correct temp to heat the neck/shoulder section to for proper Annealing?