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Why a BR scope level?

...but if the scope is not perpendicular to the bore, distance changes the r-l impact point along with adjustment. You can level the scope all you want. You also must level the rifle with the scope. Now you need a mark on the rifle, a mark on the scope and the ability to figure out if those marks are exactly "up".

Since none of that is reasonable, put levels on your rest, levels on the scope and you will look good. That makes you feel good and offers the excuse that you forgot to look at the levels.
 
And to think all this time i have just been spinning my wheels, making sure my rest is level and locked in, the rifle is level in the bag. and my scopes vertical and horizontal are right.
Guess I'll just throw it on the bench and see what happens.:rolleyes:

Joe Salt
 
I attended a 600 yd BR gong match a while ago and noticed some of the rifles had scope levels, If ur rest was level and the scope is perpendicular to the stock then what is the need for the level?
These were flat fore end BR stocked rifles riding in Farley and SEB style rests.
Thanks. E

I have a suggestion for you. Buy Tony Boyer's book:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ACC2SU/?tag=accuratescom-20

Read the section about scope mounting. It is enlightening. I bedded my bases and rings per his 3rd set of instructions. From a repeatable accuracy perspective you will be amazed. It takes some work but once done on an action your confidence level in the system will improve greatly. There will be no concern about scope issues with that system again. And by system I mean the bases, screws, rings, and scope.

The book in general is excellent. It gives you a new perspective on how to judge if a rifle is "accurate" and "repeatable" and if it isn't it helps you understand "how" to make it repeatably accurate.

Just my $0.02.
 
I couldn't agree more.......I have had this thought for years. I have even tried to think of a way to do it myself, but I just don't have the tooling to be precise enough. A simple index mark on the scope tube and ring cap would be fantastic.
Never use ring caps to level a scope, they mean nothing in regards to true level. The bottom surface of a NF scope is level to the crosshairs of the reticle.
 
I clamp a plate under the stock that rides on the bag. I then orient
that plate to be level ( Starrett ) I then orient the scope to match the
plate. I then mount the bubble level to the scope to match. I use
that bubble a lot. It's right there at a glance to let you know your
good to go, or something went south. Other then that, it looks cool,
and the cool stuff comes from "Hollands"......
 
If your target is perfect level and has a perfectly level waterline, that is visible through the scope, you may not need a level. Unless you placed the target with a level, Good luck. An off level target at 200 yds is very evident with reticle alignment, looking through the scope.
 
Fast confirmation ... The sand in either bag can and will change.
Rotating benches presents a challenge especially when having to do the change in a hurry.
I also check flat bottom of my stock allot with a level. If nothing else it makes me feel more confident with my setup.

A big understanding of what the slightest tilt will do is to put a holographic site on a rifle and then ever so slightly tilt that rifle and watch that holographic site and where it moves to.
 
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My take on things:

You need to start with a plumb line that runs from the center of the scope through the center of the bore before you can adjust the reticle/scope rotation in the rings. But how is that achieved?

I used a tool that has a V notch that sits on top of the scope and another that sits on top of the barrel and provides a bubble level to get this right. But ... if you put a tool across the bolt rails you get a different orientation. And if you use a flat spot on the action or pic rail, you will get something different all together. None of the three methods agree.

How can you tell when the center of the scope tube is PERFECTLY centered over the center of the bore? Once this is done, it should be easy to get the crosshair plumb.
 
This is why I dont shoot BR to much to worry about, These days just glad I hit the gong dang ting, I am good
Probably have some extra levels sitting around...LOL

DNZ offers a replacement ring top with a level, My son laughed at me each time I moved my head to shoot so was the bubble
 
My take on things:

You need to start with a plumb line that runs from the center of the scope through the center of the bore before you can adjust the reticle/scope rotation in the rings. But how is that achieved?

I used a tool that has a V notch that sits on top of the scope and another that sits on top of the barrel and provides a bubble level to get this right. But ... if you put a tool across the bolt rails you get a different orientation. And if you use a flat spot on the action or pic rail, you will get something different all together. None of the three methods agree.

How can you tell when the center of the scope tube is PERFECTLY centered over the center of the bore? Once this is done, it should be easy to get the crosshair plumb.
It doesn't matter if the scope center is lined up with the bore center.
As long as the scope reticle is level with the bottom of the flat fore end of the
stock there will be consistency. Of course the front rest and front and rear bags
have to allow repeatability of "level" but that part of the problem is theoretically
solved IMHO. Even the "rifling" itself will throw the bullet out of alignment with
the center of the bore.
 
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It doesn't matter if the scope center is lined up with the bore center.
As long as the scope reticle is level with the bottom of the flat fore end of the
stock there will be consistency. Of course the front rest and front and rear bags
have to allow repeatability of "level" but that part of the problem is theoretically
solved IMHO. Even the "rifling" itself will throw the bullet out of alignment with
the center of the bore.

Deleted
 
You see very few levels on short range br rifles. One reason is that little bit of wasted weight but frankly, I don't think being perfectly level is nearly as important as being perfectly consistent. Personally, I think that's still true at any known yardage but being level can't hurt anything, either way and it gives you a target for consistency in how the gun is set up in the bags.
 

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