scope leveling questions...

[BoydAllen]

After watching a lot of scope leveling videos using almost all types of scope leveling kits and methods, it seems to me that the best way to level a scope on a rifle with a flat picatinny or weaver rail is to first level your rifle using the pic rail or weaver rail with a bubble level (assuming your bubble level is accurate), and then lining up your reticle with a plumb bob using a cord or string that hopefully is as thick or thin as the etched or wire reticle appears through the scope. Without a plumb bob, you must rely on trusting there is a truly flat surface on your scope such as your elevation turret cap, or what's inside the cap, to rest another bubble level (that you also assume is accurate as well). I know some turret caps are not level because they are threaded and they may be off-level by the angle or bias of the threads. This can be proven by turning the turret cap with a bubble level on it and seeing if the bubble shifts to one side. Without a plumb bob, another way is to trust the flat bottom of the turret housing under the scope is a flat surface, and using a scope leveling wedge kit, you can level the scope that way. We've all also seen those bubble levels that clamp to your barrel, that you then adjust the barrel clamp bubble level, but then you also must have a flat spot on your scope for the second bubble level to match the barrel clamp bubble.

So what if you have a rifle that has no flat pic or weaver rail, the receiver has a rounded top, and optics can only be mounted with dovetail mount rings? How do you level your rifle in order to then level your scope?

I have had one of these for a couple of decades. With it you can put the center of your scope tube over the center of your barrel, on a vertical line, Then you roll the scope to plumb or level the cross hair. using whatever reference you like.

EXD Vertical Reticle Instrument - for accurate reticle-bore alignment

The Vertical Retical instrument will help you position your scope's reticle during scope mounting procedure so the vertical crosshair will be aligned precisely with the center of the bore. Simple to use and extremely accurate. Precisely machine tool. Made in USA. Instructions included. NOW IN...

www.neconos.com

 

[Woollybugger]

I have had one of these for a couple of decades. With it you can put the center of your scope tube over the center of your barrel, on a vertical line, Then you roll the scope to plumb or level the cross hair. using whatever reference you like.

EXD Vertical Reticle Instrument - for accurate reticle-bore alignment

The Vertical Retical instrument will help you position your scope's reticle during scope mounting procedure so the vertical crosshair will be aligned precisely with the center of the bore. Simple to use and extremely accurate. Precisely machine tool. Made in USA. Instructions included. NOW IN...

www.neconos.com

View attachment 1730468

another vote for this. works great

 

[alf]

In my best Crocodile Dundee voice.....

"That's not a level, this is a level" :

 

[Desert Fox]

I use Real Avid

 

[Rwfish]

When leveling a rifle or single shot handgun I use a bench rest bipod (non-swiveling) and shim under the bipod feet using 3x5 file cards to get the gun level first. This will work at the Range on a concrete bench. I can see where a plum bob with a highly visible string would work very well. So far I have not used one. Another method would be to use a white poster board with a vertical line. I make a straight line with an ink pin, and use this line to align narrow painters tape for the aiming line. Normally you will have Blue on both sides of the reticle and can get it centered easily on the tape line. Then after getting the poster board made up, use an accurate level and get the aiming line straight up and down. I normally put the poster board on a 100 yard target frame, however 50 yards should work well also.

Levels, 9" Torpedo and 24" For Range Use:
You would think that when you buy a level that it would be accurate. Not in this day and age on more economy models anyway. Sorta close seems to be good enough now days. When buying a Range Level find a level surface in the store and check the level then swap it around the other way, and make sure it is still the same. Then find a vertical surface and check that Bubble also. You might need to go to a few stores to find an economy level that both the Horizontal and Vertical Bubbles are both accurate on the same level. This is not a huge issue the more money that you throw at a level. You do get what you pay for. Normally if you check a few you can find an economy level that is satisfactory. I have one in the Upper Range Scoring Shed marked RANGE just for use on my personal targets. I only went through about four levels before picking that one a few years ago.

On a non-accuracy rifle kinda close may be ok. On a precision rifle used at longer ranges having the reticle straight up and down and not just close is important.

Bob R

Because I have one, I use a Starret 4” machinist precision level. It allows for adjustments to the level if it gets out of tune. The accuracy of these are phenomenal and VERY precise. A little pricey but you can find good used deals and if you have any machining equipment you’ll have plenty of uses for it..