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scope leveling questions...

After watching a lot of scope leveling videos using almost all types of scope leveling kits and methods, it seems to me that the best way to level a scope on a rifle with a flat picatinny or weaver rail is to first level your rifle using the pic rail or weaver rail with a bubble level (assuming your bubble level is accurate), and then lining up your reticle with a plumb bob using a cord or string that hopefully is as thick or thin as the etched or wire reticle appears through the scope. Without a plumb bob, you must rely on trusting there is a truly flat surface on your scope such as your elevation turret cap, or what's inside the cap, to rest another bubble level (that you also assume is accurate as well). I know some turret caps are not level because they are threaded and they may be off-level by the angle or bias of the threads. This can be proven by turning the turret cap with a bubble level on it and seeing if the bubble shifts to one side. Without a plumb bob, another way is to trust the flat bottom of the turret housing under the scope is a flat surface, and using a scope leveling wedge kit, you can level the scope that way. We've all also seen those bubble levels that clamp to your barrel, that you then adjust the barrel clamp bubble level, but then you also must have a flat spot on your scope for the second bubble level to match the barrel clamp bubble.

So what if you have a rifle that has no flat pic or weaver rail, the receiver has a rounded top, and optics can only be mounted with dovetail mount rings? How do you level your rifle in order to then level your scope?
 
This is the easy way. Mounting wedges:
In reality, "leveling" the scope to the action is only cosmetic. A canted scope doesn't matter on the target, but an angled reticle is an annoyance.

What >does< matter is the keeping the reticle plumb to the force of gravity when you're shooting. Make sure the bubble level mounted to your scope is set up so the reticle is truly plumb when the bubble is centered. Setting up the level doesn't even have to be done with the scope on the rifle. Use a plumb bob with just the scope and attached bubble level. Then go ahead mount the scope to the rifle. That way you know your scope adjustments only give you elevation or windage, not a combination of the two. Of course that is on the assumption that the reticle isn't crooked in relation to the adjustments. If it is crooked, get the scope fixed or buy a better one.
 
This is the easy way. Mounting wedges:
I like the ease of the wedge levelers and imagine the "flat" bottom of the turret housing under the scope is true and that the reticle will always be aligned with it..but is it? I quickly found that most inexpensive bubble kits did not fit on my pic rail because the gap between the bottom of my scope tubes and the top of my pic rails is too short to insert a bubble level. The wedges allow for this. I almost purchased the Vortex leveler system which allows for very short gaps as well and has a bubble leveler, however the Allen key included with it is for calibrating it's integrated bubble level on it, so how do you trust that it comes correct out of the box? You really need at least one true flat surface to reference from. I don't know the exact equation but if your reticle is off by even a thousandth of a degree, it can mean an MOA off at a certain distance...probably a lot longer/farther than I will ever aim for though.
 
So what if you have a rifle that has no flat pic or weaver rail, the receiver has a rounded top, and optics can only be mounted with dovetail mount rings? How do you level your rifle in order to then level your scope?
you can use two flashlights. or one flashlight and one laser pointer.

Correcting scope cant.

this aligns the vertical line in the reticle to the center of the bore

it will also show you if the reticle is rotated inside the scope body if you get the optical alignment right, but the scope is appears to be leaning one way or another
 
Shooting a tall target test will confirm if you did everything correctly ;)
For me, after aligning the crosshairs with the plumb line @ 100 yds. shooting the tall target test is really the only way to find out if the scope is truly mounted with the crosshairs exactly aligned straight. BUT, first the rifles action must be perfectly level.
 
After watching a lot of scope leveling videos using almost all types of scope leveling kits and methods, it seems to me that the best way to level a scope on a rifle with a flat picatinny or weaver rail is to first level your rifle using the pic rail or weaver rail with a bubble level (assuming your bubble level is accurate), and then lining up your reticle with a plumb bob using a cord or string that hopefully is as thick or thin as the etched or wire reticle appears through the scope. Without a plumb bob, you must rely on trusting there is a truly flat surface on your scope such as your elevation turret cap, or what's inside the cap, to rest another bubble level (that you also assume is accurate as well). I know some turret caps are not level because they are threaded and they may be off-level by the angle or bias of the threads. This can be proven by turning the turret cap with a bubble level on it and seeing if the bubble shifts to one side. Without a plumb bob, another way is to trust the flat bottom of the turret housing under the scope is a flat surface, and using a scope leveling wedge kit, you can level the scope that way. We've all also seen those bubble levels that clamp to your barrel, that you then adjust the barrel clamp bubble level, but then you also must have a flat spot on your scope for the second bubble level to match the barrel clamp bubble.

So what if you have a rifle that has no flat pic or weaver rail, the receiver has a rounded top, and optics can only be mounted with dovetail mount rings? How do you level your rifle in order to then level your scope?
If you dont have a nice flat on your upper turret to use a bubble level on
What I have done instead of using a plump bob is to line up the vertical of the reticle with the door jamb (vertical line)
Works good
 

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