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Scope Level Question

I use a small level mounted on a 6" piece of 1/4" of 'key stock'. I place this under the scope on the top of the scope blocks or the rails the bolt travels. Now the rifle is level. A plumb line is used to get the vertical hair vertical. Then tighten the ring screws in rotation. After tightening the screw, confirm the reticle is true, then install a level bubble on the scope.
 
Set it with a plumb bob and then verify on a tall target. Zeroed at 100. shoot a group at the bottom of a sheet at least 36" long, Mark a line level to vertical up the paper from the center of that group. Then, without touching windage knob, come up to your dope settings for 600-800-90-1000 etc. should be within 30 MOA for most CF rifles and verify the POI is still running true to the line. It will also tell you of your clicks are true, MOA or inches per 100 yards(IPHY) too. Scope on the left is true MOA , Scope on the Right is IPHY and lost some elevation as tracking, ( 100 Zero is not shown but was grouped to the left of the line at the edge of the red box for both rifles, rifle on the right needs a click or two right as you go out to distance.)

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I use a scope level from Larry Willis on top of the Pic rail. A plumb line to set the cross hairs.

 
I have a question regarding leveling a scope. I have 6.5 CM with a Sightron PLR 8x32 mounted on it and I use a bipod versus a rest. I used a couple of small levels to line up the scope with the action where the crosshairs appear to be perfectly horizontal. I then placed a level on top of elevation turret and found it was not level, I then adjusted the scope so it was level. This resulted in the cross hairs being slightly canted. I'm thinking it is related to a slight variation in how the bipod is mounted. I know if the scope is not level it will affect long range shooting e.g. 600 yards. My question is should I ensure the scope crosshairs are level/horizontal to the action or should I level the scope off the elevation turret even though the cross hairs are slightly canted?

Thanks
The problem with leveling across your turret is that most all turrets are not level. Stick a small Wheeler level on top of your turret and then turn the level and you'll see what I'm talking about. The easiest way I have found to accurately level is a scope is to attach a CTK level across the top of the Picatinny rail or whatever base you're using. Use the rubber bungee to wrap around the bottom of the gun and then back to itself. He's a link to the level. No, there's no kickbacks if you buy one.


Set your eye relief and mount your scope rings to the rail like you normally would. This next part is easier to do if the gun is inside a vice. Place the gun vice and gun in front of some form of white surface that could be used as a projector screen. Whether that's close to a wall or in front of a white poster board. Should be in the range of 3 to 4 feel away. Then take a decent flashlight, and put it up against the objective lens of the scope. Run the power all the way down, and adjust your focus. You'll physically see the upside down reticle of the rifle scope projected on the poster board.

Next you're going to want to hang a weighted string down from the top of the poster board, to sorta form a plumb bob string. Then loosen the scope rings and turn the scope until the reticle is lined up with the plumb bob string. Softly tighten your scope ring screws in an alternating pattern or however instructioned to my the manufacturers documentation. Your scope is now level. Can literally be completed in 5 minutes.

Pro Tip: use the brightest flashlight you can find. Also, screwing on your sunshade into the objective end of your scope make it easier to rest your flashlight shining through your scope.
 

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