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Reloading bench build...

Those HF boxes look better than others I've seen. So I'm curious . . . with 8 or more boxes stacked like that, how do you label them to find what's in them? MY memory would make unlabeled boxes a nightmare lol.

Since I never have to take them out of the "reloading room", eventually I went to a couple of vertical drawer bin cabinets so that their front labels would all be visible at a glance.
 
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Those HF boxes look better than others I've seen. So I'm curious . . . with 8 or more boxes stacked like that, how do you label them to find what's in them? MY memory would make unlabeled boxes a nightmare lol.

Since I never have to take them out of the "reloading room", eventually I went to a couple of vertical drawer bin cabinets so that their front labels would all be visible at a glance.
.

I'll make printed labels for the front of the handles. Most often used items in the top slot in the cabinet and so on as we go down.

Not my picture but something like this..

 
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Just curious... when you say:

I've used lots of construction lumber for such projects before and I've learned to buy oversize and mill to finish widths.

...do you mill the individual chunks of 2x to a somewhat square/flat S4S state *before* you laminate them into larger pieces? The other pictures showing boards clamped up with the glue squeeze-out doesn't really look like it, but I'm wondering how you get a nice air-tight seam between the boards if you don't?
 
Just curious... when you say:



...do you mill the individual chunks of 2x to a somewhat square/flat S4S state *before* you laminate them into larger pieces? The other pictures showing boards clamped up with the glue squeeze-out doesn't really look like it, but I'm wondering how you get a nice air-tight seam between the boards if you don't?

I only surfaced the faces parallel prior to gluing. I sized the legs for width after the glue up so no need to surface all 4 sides prior. I just let the squeeze out go on the glue up since those edges will be ripped off on the table saw anyway. Once the edges are ripped off I finish size all 4 sides in the jointer and planer.
 
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if you want a quick bench a solid core door is fairly well made, just make some leggs and so on, pretty soild for 59.00 get them at box store Lowes
 
if you want a quick bench a solid core door is fairly well made, just make some leggs and so on, pretty soild for 59.00 get them at box store Lowes

Have used them for other benches topped with 1/4" melamine. That was my first choice but no such thing in stock in my area any more. Apparently plain solid core slabs are out of fashion here.
 
Have used them for other benches topped with 1/4" melamine. That was my first choice but no such thing in stock in my area any more. Apparently plain solid core slabs are out of fashion here.
at 1 3/4 inches thick the door will make a very solid reloading bench yes, solid and quiet, add a sheet of hardboard and be off to the races lol
 
at 1 3/4 inches thick the door will make a very solid reloading bench yes, solid and quiet, add a sheet of hardboard and be off to the races lol

The only game in town was to order one from a local yard for $179.00. That's why I opted for the built up layers of mdf/melamine. Would have loved to have been able to use a slab but not for that price.
 
The only game in town was to order one from a local yard for $179.00. That's why I opted for the built up layers of mdf/melamine. Would have loved to have been able to use a slab but not for that price.
I don't actually know the prices now, this was 6 yrs ago, they could be quite higher sounds like it. 65.00 at lowes 84 x36
 
I don't actually know the prices now, this was 6 yrs ago, they could be quite higher sounds like it. 65.00 at lowes 84 x36

It's been more like 10 years since I used one for a bench top. I assumed that I could go to Lowes and pick one up for cheap. The guy at Lowes acted like he had never even heard of a slab door. Same at Home Depot. I figured that the more mom and pop lumber yards would still have them but those guys said they hadn't stocked them in years. Special order only. Surprised me too.
 
"Once I know for sure where I want the vise and the press I'll drill and attached screw on tee nuts on the bottom of the top and use some star knobs for tool-less attachment. I'll just attach to the bench of some F clamps for now."

You could route the top to install T-Tracks/T-Bolts and move the press, etc. anywhere you want along the width of the bench. This would also avoid any possible clearance issues you may encounter with the framing underneath the table top.
 
"Once I know for sure where I want the vise and the press I'll drill and attached screw on tee nuts on the bottom of the top and use some star knobs for tool-less attachment. I'll just attach to the bench of some F clamps for now."

You could route the top to install T-Tracks/T-Bolts and move the press, etc. anywhere you want along the width of the bench. This would also avoid any possible clearance issues you may encounter with the framing underneath the table top.

Definitely a possibility. Not sure if I really like the T tracks in a multi-purpose bench or not. I think I'll work with it for a while before I do anything.
 
I assumed that I could go to Lowes and pick one up for cheap. The guy at Lowes acted like he had never even heard of a slab door. Same at Home Depot.

I used ‘em too, maybe 35-40 years ago. Birch or oak veneer ply over solid particie board, maybe $25 at Hines... remember Hines?

A ‘slab’ door now likely will be hollow-core w/veneer ply (door skin) on both sides, MDF solids at sides & edges for $100 or more. Or molded MDF to look like a 6-panel...

Ask for a price on a real wood 6-panel but sit down before they tell you, and expect to get veneer over particle board anyway at least for the stiles & rails, maybe solid wood edging where necessary for moulding profiles.
 
Definitely a possibility. Not sure if I really like the T tracks in a multi-purpose bench or not. I think I'll work with it for a while before I do anything.

Just one alternative to drilling multiple holes in the top to position the tee nuts from underneath. You would have to be careful with primers and bullets......they get slippery and could end up in the track.
 
I used ‘em too, maybe 35-40 years ago. Birch or oak veneer ply over solid particie board, maybe $25 at Hines... remember Hines?

A ‘slab’ door now likely will be hollow-core w/veneer ply (door skin) on both sides, MDF solids at sides & edges for $100 or more. Or molded MDF to look like a 6-panel...

Ask for a price on a real wood 6-panel but sit down before they tell you, and expect to get veneer over particle board anyway at least for the stiles & rails, maybe solid wood edging where necessary for moulding profiles.

My experience exactly. The $179 price I listed above was for a flat veneered solid core slab. Just way too much money to pay for the intended purpose. I will be on the look out for them in the thrift stores or garage sales though. Wouldn't mind to stockpile a couple for future use if I can find them cheap.
 
Just one alternative to drilling multiple holes in the top to position the tee nuts from underneath. You would have to be careful with primers and bullets......they get slippery and could end up in the track.

Those were my thoughts as well. Not sure that 2 T tracks the full length of the bench might not be more trouble than a few straight holes for T nuts.
 
Those were my thoughts as well. Not sure that 2 T tracks the full length of the bench might not be more trouble than a few straight holes for T nuts.

If you did go with tracks, you could just use a 24" or 48" track and have the remainder of the bench without the tracks. I have my press mounted in the center of my 6' long bench and find that works for me. As others said, play around with locations before you do anything permanent.
 

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