Hammer, the house is needed to keep mama happy and if mama ain't happy...You have a great shop, and do excellent work.
I totally agree, you can never have too many clamps!
I envy your sliding table for your saw.
To echo the comments from others, bolt that thing to the wall. I have bolted all my benches to the concrete foundation, and it makes them rigid as the house. I bolt through the top stringer under the table top.
You table will be solid, as you intended. Another approach is a "torsion box" table made of a top and bottom layer and a gridwork of mdf in the middle. This creates a light , yet extremely stiff table.
Here is a top for a shooting table which I designed and fabricated. Exterior parts are oak, top and bottom and grid of 1/4 MDF.
It is sitting on my Bench/Assembly table, which is also a torsion box with a 3/4 X 3" thick MDF grid, 3/4 MDF top and bottom, and is finished with Formica to match the saw table.
View attachment 1026964
View attachment 1026965
You have a great shop, and do excellent work.
I totally agree, you can never have too many clamps!
I envy your sliding table for your saw.
To echo the comments from others, bolt that thing to the wall. I have bolted all my benches to the concrete foundation, and it makes them rigid as the house. I bolt through the top stringer under the table top.
You table will be solid, as you intended. Another approach is a "torsion box" table made of a top and bottom layer and a gridwork of mdf in the middle. This creates a light , yet extremely stiff table.
Here is a top for a shooting table which I designed and fabricated. Exterior parts are oak, top and bottom and grid of 1/4 MDF.
It is sitting on my Bench/Assembly table, which is also a torsion box with a 3/4 X 3" thick MDF grid, 3/4 MDF top and bottom, and is finished with Formica to match the saw table.
View attachment 1026964
View attachment 1026965
Some thoughts from living in my own shops for lo these many yrs.
I've changed my layout so many times that now everything in my shop is on casters, including 30ft of reloading benches. I'm careful to set hts the same on everything as my radial arm/chop/miter saws and cutoff equipment is also on rolling 8ft tables....... even the horizontal bandsaw is blocked up and mobile. Some of my rolling tables have 110VAC on all faces. I like them all to be stable enough that I can mount a barrel vise on even the short end and easily make 150ftlb torque with no movement/tipping. And good enough wheellocks for swaging bullets.
I hook to walls (and to each other) using tabs and screws
For those few setups without locking casters, like my welding bench with steel casters, I throw chain on the concrete floor and wrap it around the wheels
Another vote for bolting the bench to the wall.
Also might want to think about NOT bolting the press(es) to the bench. I mount mine to a piece of 3/4" Baltic birch and then I can use C-clamps to clamp them to any location I want on the bench. Also allows me to take the press to the range to do on-site load development. You will probably use this bench for non-reloading activities and you don't want to have to remove the press(es) to do them. Then you have the holes to contend with.
It will take trial and error to determine exactly where you like the press(es) to be mounted. Using the above stated method allows you to change the locations at will. As you add reloading equipment to your collection you will be moving other equipment to different locations. This method allows that with ease. And the bench always looks good.
Hammer, the house is needed to keep mama happy and if mama ain't happy...
One thing I did on my loading bench was to use "L" brackets and anchor the bench legs to the concrete flo
Very nice. Extra points for the Veritas sketch pad in the OP![]()
Very nice. Extra points for the Veritas sketch pad in the OP![]()
I gotta bench from Harbor Freight..........made in China![]()
That is a fine bench he is making!