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Induction brass annealer redux

I have an induction annealer I want to sell that I made years ago using the info on this site....all that needs to be completed is the solenoid mechanism to drop the brass. I have two solenoids for this...the mech just needs to be finished. It is working as pictured and was programmed using a plc as I recall ...program was posted here ...I made this to use with my dillon press and it turns on and off the outlet at the bottom. Make me a reasonable offer.
 

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I have an induction annealer I want to sell that I made years ago using the info on this site....all that needs to be completed is the solenoid mechanism to drop the brass. I have two solenoids for this...the mech just needs to be finished. It is working as pictured and was programmed using a plc as I recall ...program was posted here ...I made this to use with my dillon press and it turns on and off the outlet at the bottom. Make me a reasonable offer.
This belongs in the classifieds and you need to list a price.
 
I’ve read the threats about the Ginaerick annealer but find no specific info about connecting the Sestos. Hopeto hear from you “ Frog “
 
This is the original schematic (so very long ago). Many changes have taken place. I hope this will be a starting point for you. Read the posts in the tread to get ab idea on how to improve on the design. ie replace the 110 volt AC fans with 12 volt DC fans, etc.
Good luck
Gina1
 

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Hi Guys,

Maybe it is a stupid question, but since i am an electric virgin,who is trying to build the original ginaerick anaeler i could use some help.
Can anyone tell me how to connect the sestos please?
Hope some one can get me going.

Thanks anyway
Foreigner,

It appears that you have a different timer from the original. The label you attached to your first post indicates your timer has only 1 set of contacts. The original timer had 2 sets of contacts. One set controlled the relay to the induction board, and the other set controlled the trap door solenoid.

I have attached a picture of the label on my timer. Hope this helps.

Sestos Timer B3S-2R-220.jpg
 
Also, your Sestos (C3E-R-220) appears to be a counter, not a timer. Look at the pic in the post above, and you will see that the model is B3S-2R-220, which is the timer model with 2 relays.
 
Hello to all!
I, like all members of this discussion, am trying to build myself an induction annealer for my expensive 6.5x47 Lapua cases.

I purchased a circuit complete with coil on AliExpress.
The circuit is a 1000W ZVS with 6 x 0.33uF capacitors.

Since its coil out to be too large for the cases, I purchased a second coil, of which I attach the link.


The coil is Color C, with 2 series of coils.

The standard coil, with the LCR circuit, measures 1.95uH.

The second coil that I purchased was 1.65uH.

I tried using 12V 50A car relays but these cannot handle the absorption of the ZVS circuit.

At the moment I am not equipped with an instrument that allows me to measure the absorption in Amperes or Watts. If you have any instrument to recommend I will gladly accept the advice.

The machine I would currently like to build would be very simple, I would do the loading of the cases manually.
However, the annealing and unloading of the cartridge case would be automatic.

I would use 2 timed relays connected in cascade and set for this purpose.

As soon as I manage to get the necessary components to make the creation less horrifying I will post some photos.

The material must arrive from China.

Thanks for reading me and sorry for my bad English, it's Google translator's fault:D
 
Hello to all!
I, like all members of this discussion, am trying to build myself an induction annealer for my expensive 6.5x47 Lapua cases.

I purchased a circuit complete with coil on AliExpress.
The circuit is a 1000W ZVS with 6 x 0.33uF capacitors.

Since its coil out to be too large for the cases, I purchased a second coil, of which I attach the link.


The coil is Color C, with 2 series of coils.

The standard coil, with the LCR circuit, measures 1.95uH.

The second coil that I purchased was 1.65uH.

I tried using 12V 50A car relays but these cannot handle the absorption of the ZVS circuit.

At the moment I am not equipped with an instrument that allows me to measure the absorption in Amperes or Watts. If you have any instrument to recommend I will gladly accept the advice.

The machine I would currently like to build would be very simple, I would do the loading of the cases manually.
However, the annealing and unloading of the cartridge case would be automatic.

I would use 2 timed relays connected in cascade and set for this purpose.

As soon as I manage to get the necessary components to make the creation less horrifying I will post some photos.

The material must arrive from China.

Thanks for reading me and sorry for my bad English, it's Google translator's fault:D
If I recall correctly, I think the target coil inductance is around 1 uH (give or take a little). For our purposes I believe the frequency should be around 100 - 120kHz.

I would recommend a “quality” SSR for switching your DC source. NOT one from China.

Why not add a voltage and current meter for monitoring. They are not that expensive.

I would also suggest getting 1/8 inch diameter copper tubing and wind your own coils. Helpful to use the silicon/fiberglass sleeving to prevent shorts.
 

Foreigner​

This is the timer you want
Sestos Digital Quartic Timer Relay Switch 100-240V B3S
Sestos Timer
Hello Foreigner,
the Sestos on your link, of I don't make a mistake, had only 2 output.
I read that is necessary a Sestos quarti, is true?

I looked, on a pair of videos/realization, an other 4 relay the name are PTR4.

But for now I can manage all with and inexpensive pair of time delay relay.

Regards
 
If I recall correctly, I think the target coil inductance is around 1 uH (give or take a little). For our purposes I believe the frequency should be around 100 - 120kHz.

I would recommend a “quality” SSR for switching your DC source. NOT one from China.

Why not add a voltage and current meter for monitoring. They are not that expensive.

I would also suggest getting 1/8 inch diameter copper tubing and wind your own coils. Helpful to use the silicon/fiberglass sleeving to prevent shorts.
Hello itchy TF,
ita possible that youre right, but the on board coil of the ZVS had 1,95uH inductance.

Ok for ssr.

Wich type of voltage and current meter can you suggest me?

Can you suggest info for make a coil with 1/8" copper tube?

Thanks
 
Hello itchy TF,
ita possible that youre right, but the on board coil of the ZVS had 1,95uH inductance.

Ok for ssr.

Wich type of voltage and current meter can you suggest me?

Can you suggest info for make a coil with 1/8" copper tube?

Thanks
The board can oscillate at different frequencies depending on the inductance. I believe the 100-120kHz range is good for the thickness of cartridge brass.

This would be an example of a volt/amp meter.

There are a number of inductance calculators onlne that could help you come up with a coil.
Here’s one -

You might find a multilayer coil to be beneficial.
 
The board can oscillate at different frequencies depending on the inductance. I believe the 100-120kHz range is good for the thickness of cartridge brass.

This would be an example of a volt/amp meter.

There are a number of inductance calculators onlne that could help you come up with a coil.
Here’s one -

You might find a multilayer coil to be beneficial.
Hello,
thanks for the various links , but i think that the real info like a photos, measurements, quotes, are too helpfull for me.

Regards
 
Hello,
thanks for the various links , but i think that the real info like a photos, measurements, quotes, are too helpfull for me.

Regards
Not sure what you mean. The link for the meter shows a photo.
The inductance calculator link has diagrams showing coil construction. It gives you the flexibility of dimensions to come up with the target inductance.
Here are a couple of pics but I can’t give dimensions since I’m not home. The wood blocks are to keep everything aligned while being stored. The black things (caps) are to keep insects out. Different inside diameters for different cases.

The SSR I used with a big heatsink.
 

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Not sure what you mean. The link for the meter shows a photo.
The inductance calculator link has diagrams showing coil construction. It gives you the flexibility of dimensions to come up with the target inductance.
Here are a couple of pics but I can’t give dimensions since I’m not home. The wood blocks are to keep everything aligned while being stored. The black things (caps) are to keep insects out. Different inside diameters for different cases.

The SSR I used with a big heatsink.
The machine on the photo are your?
If yes, compliments!

I'm waiting for the 1/8" tube, and when arrive I can make some test.

Thanks for your support.

Regards
 
I built the annealer in the photo for a friend. Mine is older but similar. Picture attached.

Originally the coolant tank was way too big so I cut it down. It’s still larger than necessary. I didn’t know how big it should have been so I overdid it.
Anneal time can be determined by either push wheel switches (9.99 sec max) or the flame sensor.
 

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I believe it has been mentioned by a few people in this thread. I’m surprised the coil doesn’t get hot with repeated use. As far as I know all the GinaErik versions (and mine) had hot coils without cooling.
 

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