Hello,
Can you explain how the trap door and sensor (for brass presence or heat?) work and are made?
My project are all analogic apart the 2 timer.
Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
Hello,
Can you explain how the trap door and sensor (for brass presence or heat?) work and are made?
My project are all analogic apart the 2 timer.
On myne I had used a bare copper wire, about 3mm, and this are very hot when used.
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
I can, but would rather use a keyboard. I’ll be home later tonight. Would take me forever using a phone.
If you are interested in a flame sensor to detect when your case is annealed, my solution is discussed starting with post #2765 (page 139). It uses Arduino style parts, but without the need for an Arduino...totally analog compatible...just need a 5V power supply.
Good!
I read your posts!
Existing one sistem that reveal if the case are on the position inside the coil for starting the annealing?
Thanks
I can not help you with that. My annealer detects when a case is fed down from a case feeder and then assumes that case reached the coil. After that, it only relies on the timer for when to start the next cycle.
Hi Gina,
Without having to read through the 170+ threads I would like to stay within the confines of your original design as I have no need for a fully automated annealer. I would only be doing a hundred or so cases at a time so won’t mind manually feeding the cases. Further, I am not a high tech redneck especially in the field of electronics! So that leads to my question, what if anything would you change/update on the original annealer design keeping it in mind that I would be staying with the manual feed? What would that schematic look like today if you were to update the design from the original?
Thanks!
SPE
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
My opinion - you should still use a timer. Induction annealing is fairly fast so errors in timing can mean a lot in the result. You don’t need auto feed but should still use a timer.
Press a button to start, timer runs out, replace case, press button. Etc.
nsussf,
Not to open a can of worms or anything, but here is my offering
Simplest set up (in my opinion)
- adequately large power supply to power ZVS board (and only ZVS board) through large relay.
- large capacity relay (I like the DPDT double pole relay because it connects and disconnects both positive and negative power to ZVS simultaneously). The one I use has a relay switching capacity of 30A of 250VAC or 28VDC, but I've never had an issue switching the 48V/22A I use to power my ZVS.
- separate 12VDC power supply to control the large relay through the small relay on the timer board, any cooling fans and the coolant pump, and any other low voltage components you have.
- a simple timer board that will run on 12VDC and has at least a 0.1 second resolution for the timer annealing cycle and a relay to control the large relay.
This setup will let you run the process entirely manually, with the exception of the timer controling the ZVS run time to a 0.1 second resolution.
- Drop case in coil
- press start
- remove case when anneal complete
- repeat
I think the timer linked below will allow (with the correct programming) you to start it, then it will close its relay in order to anneal for the programmed time, then the relay will open and the anneal will stop, the timer will run for a programmed delay time, and then repeat the entire cycle over and over until stopped.
Again, this is my understanding from looking at the pictures on Amazon, but you should do you own research to confirm.
For example: (on program P7, I think)
-press start (Trigger)
-anneal for (T1,-0) 3.7 seconds (or whatever you program)
-delay for (T2,-1) 15 seconds to allow for case removal/replacement and help control component overheating (longer or shorter time depending on how hot you want your annealer to run)
-automatically start over (C-,00)
--------------------------------------------
Some EXAMPLES of components from Amazon
Large power supply
Small power supply
ZVS Board
Timer module
Large DPDT relay
Coolant Pump/Reservoir
About $175 total plus any switches, copper tubing, wire, etc you might need...
It was covered way back in post #2,946 and before. The standard ZVS board has two big fat solid state switches on it (HEXFETs) Q1 and Q2. If these are turned off the board stops. (It's how the board works in the first place!) You turn them off by grounding their gates. Easy access points to the HEXFET gates are circled in red. If you switch the power supply on and off you are switching a LOT of current and if you are using a solid state relay you have to manage the heat dissipation associated with the Rds(On) of the SSR. In contrast, if the gates of Q1 and Q2 are grounded then a mere 48/470*2 = 0.2 amps of current flows through the 'switch' managing these. A tiny little SMD FET can deal with this let alone a timer module with physical relays.
Did you look at the photo in the link I posted? I suspect not.
It's pretty easy to identify the resistors and which side of them you need to tap into based on the points marked in the circuit diagram. I chose to use the R1/R2 through-hole resistor solder pads but equally you could use the one for resistors R3/R4 or the zener diodes D1/D2 or simply the gate pin on the FETs themselves. So a choice of 4 points for each side.
(Hint: rotate the image at the link I provided anti clockwise 90 degrees and then compare with yours. Or rotate yours 90 degrees clockwise and then compare.)
It's pretty easy to identify the resistors and which side of them you need to tap into based on the points marked in the circuit diagram. I chose to use the R1/R2 through-hole resistor solder pads but equally you could use the one for resistors R3/R4 or the zener diodes D1/D2 or simply the gate pin on the FETs themselves. So a choice of 4 points for each side.
(Hint: rotate the image at the link I provided anti clockwise 90 degrees and then compare with yours. Or rotate yours 90 degrees clockwise and then compare.)
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You should verify by studying the traces on the other side of the board and by looking up the pin designation of a IRFP260N HEXFET. https://4donline.ihs.com/images/Vip...8-1.pdf?hkey=6D3A4C79FDBF58556ACFDE234799DDF0. See the package outline.
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