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Induction brass annealer redux

Sorry, I should have looked at it. Thanks to dulcimer!
I read the entire thread but it is all a bit of a blur.
I ordered this one:

It seems I already have the rest of it except the tiny water pump. Enjoyed digging around in the conex boxes where my junk assortment is stored and found a whole bunch more brass, powder and bullets I have not seen in several years.
 
To SGK - with all due respect, your knowledge and common sense are formidable. For the last few years I have been experimenting with different copper coils, ferrite coils and gate traps. My goal is to secure brass position to be steady and consistent With my current built, I feel good about it.

Positioning the brass in the magnetic field:
It is obvious that we all have to do some compromises - trying to anneal the neck shoulder junction without frying the neck. As for the moment, to me, the neck has priority.

However, why not try the best for both. Example - annealing in two stages - shoulder, then neck, if necessary (changing vertical position of the brass). Or annealing with magnetic pulses to the neck shoulder junction and eventually the neck will be able to get away without being frayed, but properly annealed.
 
Hey I'm all for experimentation. I suspect there are diminishing returns though. Personally I would prefer to have a gapped ferrite implementation but my 'conventional' coil structure seems to do ok. I think, rightly or wrongly, that if you get the shoulder/wall junction right then the neck will also be good.
 
Im going to go back through and read more of this thread.

But I was wondering if there is a bare minimum parts list?

Also what kind of price range is a person looking at to build a basic one at a time annealer?

Thanks
 
Im going to go back through and read more of this thread.

But I was wondering if there is a bare minimum parts list?

Also what kind of price range is a person looking at to build a basic one at a time annealer?

Thanks
If you want to go basic leave off the components re the trap door automation and just go for a manual system. Most of the money is in the power supplies, I purchased power supplies on Aliexpress and saved heaps of money. No quality issues at all.
 
I'm not finding the schematic anywhere, can someone point me to it?
On one of the very first pages it referenced the attached Rev 2 schematic, but it's not there, only an illegible thumbnail. I'm going to begin ordering key components for the manual system, and I need to figure out which components are critical.
Thank you to anyone that can help :)
 
I'm not finding the schematic anywhere, can someone point me to it?
On one of the very first pages it referenced the attached Rev 2 schematic, but it's not there, only an illegible thumbnail. I'm going to begin ordering key components for the manual system, and I need to figure out which components are critical.
Thank you to anyone that can help :)
Sorry about that. I don't know how it happened. Last month they did an up load/reload of the system. Guess they reduced large files.
If you need more information, please feel free to write.
Gina1
 

Attachments

  • Rev2 Schematic.jpg
    Rev2 Schematic.jpg
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I was thinking of making a movable shelf/trapdoor and base the up down movement on a t-track rail + combined with a clamp like this (or this). With the first type one rail probably would be enough (eg on the right side of the shelf). Not the cheapest but looks elegant and is easy to use.

I did not see this in any of the builds here or on the other forums. Is this a bad idea?
 
Last edited:
On page 1 in the start of this thread, there are several pictures of how the trap door assy is raised and lowered.. Your tracks could work with that. BUT what ever works for you. It's your build.!! This thread was published 3 1/2 years ago. Folks all over the US and around the world have built their own variation.
Add your idea
and good luck...
Gina1
 
On page 1 in the start of this thread, there are several pictures of how the trap door assy is raised and lowered.. Your tracks could work with that. BUT what ever works for you. It's your build.!! This thread was published 3 1/2 years ago. Folks all over the US and around the world have built their own variation.
Add your idea
and good luck...
Gina1

Sure, and happy to post Gina1 when I have it done. However was wondering if the rail and clamp would possibly interfere with the coil because it's all aluminum with some metal screws.
 
I made my case holding fixture out of phenolic. There are 4 steel screws in the corners but figured they were far enough away not to interfere much. All the adjustment material is aluminum and brass and again I figured it was far enough away. I embedded an optical sensor in the phenolic base to detect the presence of a case which starts the process.
A friend borrowed it and posted this video -
Post in thread 'Induction brass annealer redux' https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-brass-annealer-redux.3908353/post-36860572
 
Hello everyone
I just finished to build my own case annealer. Today I tested it for the first time and it works perfectly. Thanks so much to you all who brought your experiences. I've attached a file showing different annealing times on 6 mm PPC cases with a .262" neck.
I've used "tempilaq 750" on the necks and shoulders.
As we don't seat deeply the bullets in the neck, I think that the times between 3 sec to 4.5 sec are correct. But as I'm not sure, could you, please, give me your opinions.
I'll post later some pics of my annealer.
I've used a PLC and BCD coded wheels for changing heating times.
As this I can have 100 different heating times ranging from 0.1 sec to 9.9 sec. However, I can program it differently, for example starting from 2.0 sec 11.9 sec etc.......
Is it still possible to post a video on your web site?
PC from FRANCE
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201130_145142.jpg
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