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Fclass Rifle Actions

savageshooter86 said:
I saw someone who bedded rings for their scope

So how does one know if rings need lapping?

You check them. They make an alignment tool used to check them.

Or, you can use the lapping tool slightly and see if lapping is needed depending on contact on the rings.
 
Erik Cortina said:
bayou shooter said:
Lapping rings is not a good idea.

:o

Why?

Lapping quality rings is not a good idea because there is nothing that you can do to make them better; you can only damage them. It's like full length sizing quality Lapua virgin brass before the first firing, a mandrel through the mouth to round it out is all that's needed.

When you lap rings, the best you can hope for is to polish the interior surface of the rings to a mirror finish and that can lead to the scope moving in the rings because of the reduced "friction." When this occurs, people decide to really torque down the ring screws and that's not good for the scope and its internal components.

I use Jim's rings for my match rifle and I use Burris Signature Zee rings for other applications. Some of my toys wear LaRue one piece scope mounts and those are not lapped either; I pay extra to make sure I get quality.

The beauty of the Burris Signature rings are the plastic inserts which hold the scope VERY well with normal torque on the ring screws. (And these work just fine on the Kelby "Picatinny-type" rail.)

Speaking of torque, I use my torque screwdriver to torque down the ring screws to about 25-30 inch/pounds, and the mount screws to 55-60 inch pounds.

If you have to lap your quality rings, you have a fundamental issue that you need to address.

ETA: Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 
bayou shooter said:
Erik Cortina said:
bayou shooter said:
Lapping rings is not a good idea.

:o

Why?

Lapping quality rings is not a good idea because there is nothing that you can do to make them better; you can only damage them. It's like full length sizing quality Lapua virgin brass before the first firing, a mandrel through the mouth to round it out is all that's needed.

When you lap rings, the best you can hope for is to polish the interior surface of the rings to a mirror finish and that can lead to the scope moving in the rings because of the reduced "friction." When this occurs, people decide to really torque down the ring screws and that's not good for the scope and its internal components.

I use Jim's rings for my match rifle and I use Burris Signature Zee rings for other applications. Some of my toys wear LaRue one piece scope mounts and those are not lapped either; I pay extra to make sure I get quality.

The beauty of the Burris Signature rings are the plastic inserts which hold the scope VERY well with normal torque on the ring screws. (And these work just fine on the Kelby "Picatinny-type" rail.)

Speaking of torque, I use my torque screwdriver to torque down the ring screws to about 25-30 inch/pounds, and the mount screws to 55-60 inch pounds.

If you have to lap your quality rings, you have a fundamental issue that you need to address.

ETA: Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Crazy question: What if it's the rail that's off and not the rings? How many different pairs of perfectly good rings will you return and deem junk and never get a good set?

You can't fix what you don't measure, so check rings to make sure they do not need lapping, if they do, address the issue.
 
whysman said:
savageshooter86 said:
I would hope $1600+ actions are straight. Since action has integrated rail and made from one piece

Hope is no substitute for knowing through verification.
[br]
Доверяй, но проверяй. (Trust, but verify.) ;)
 
Erik Cortina said:
Crazy question: What if it's the rail that's off and not the rings? How many different pairs of perfectly good rings will you return and deem junk and never get a good set?

You can't fix what you don't measure, so check rings to make sure they do not need lapping, if they do, address the issue.

It's not a crazy question, but it doesn't belong here. This thread is about expensive custom actions and mounting scopes on them. If the rail of your expensive custom action is off, you have major issues.

If you lap the rings in an attempt to correct for a bad rail, they will no longer be round, they will be oval; the riflescope will not be square on them and there will be a gap. Also, if the rings are not stainless steel, you have just removed the finish and exposed the steel. If anodized aluminium, you have removed the anodized surface.

Pick you rings carefully and if you have a crooked rail and can't swap it out, get the Burris Signature rings with the plastic inserts.

I totally agree with you about measuring before mounting, but don't lap.
 
My grandfather had a saying "The worst measurement is better than the best assumption".

It's made me a lot of money over the years...

No action maker, no ring maker is perfect. While we are at it, no scope is perfect. I've owned several and none of them are perfectly straight.

So, at the end of the day, the stacked possibilities of imperfection, plus eliminating ring marks on my scopes, is why I bed them all in.

Other than the few applications where I use Burris Signature Zee rings, that is.
 
wooger said:
Why would one shoot a fluted barrel? Fluting serves no purpose at all, at least in regards to pure accuracy.
Fluting is about looks, making weight, or balance.

When done for balance, it absolutely can be about accuracy.
 
bayou shooter said:
Erik Cortina said:
Crazy question: What if it's the rail that's off and not the rings? How many different pairs of perfectly good rings will you return and deem junk and never get a good set?

You can't fix what you don't measure, so check rings to make sure they do not need lapping, if they do, address the issue.

It's not a crazy question, but it doesn't belong here. This thread is about expensive custom actions and mounting scopes on them. If the rail of your expensive custom action is off, you have major issues.

If you lap the rings in an attempt to correct for a bad rail, they will no longer be round, they will be oval; the riflescope will not be square on them and there will be a gap. Also, if the rings are not stainless steel, you have just removed the finish and exposed the steel. If anodized aluminium, you have removed the anodized surface.

Pick you rings carefully and if you have a crooked rail and can't swap it out, get the Burris Signature rings with the plastic inserts.

I totally agree with you about measuring before mounting, but don't lap.

Denys, I think your opinion will change if you measure some different rings and rail combos... with good tools. I've had a chance to check a "few" of these...about 50% of the samples are not perfectly aligned when you mate the rings to the rail. Lapping is a quick and easy way to get them right. Bedding the rings is the best solution if you are willing to take the time to do that. Assuming that something is straight simply because you paid X dollars for it is not wise in my opinion.
 
I build customs, semi customs, and factory actions for F-Class. The custom actions are so good they are in a class of their own. Borden's, Bats, Barnard's, Kelbly's , and Pierce's, actions are all class acts of there own. I have built or rebuilt winning rifles on all these aforementioned actions. The owners of these manufactures are all class acts and gentlemen. Each of these manufacture's actions have their own attributes. Depending on what you want and need any of the makers rifle actions will do a superb job.
Nat Lambeth
 

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