6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
I ordered from Grafs but didn't pay attn got LR peter brass who has the SRP 6xc brass
6XC Peterson Brass?
- Thread starter Frankr
- Start date
Believe it came from Graf and sons, maybe 3 weeks ago.
D
Brass is a work in progress. Had reasonable interest in SRP in xc case so seeing if SRP have benefits in similar capacity 6 slr case, which is just an improved 243 with a longer neck. Capacity of Peterson is a bit less than win or R.E.M., guessing on that but necks of Peterson seem thicker. Consequently I'm skimming them for initial fire form and possible donut. Shooting Sierra 107's in a 7.5 twist Krieger. So early in development but like initial results.
So what is the SD and group sizes you get and is trying to improve?On a different tangent and stop me if this has come up before. Actually direct me to the thread. I bought these bags of Gen 1 SRP brass because they were less than half the price of their Gen 2 from my local distributor friend. I've had occasion to pull down some loads a few times now due to the direction the ladder was headed. I noticed long streaks of the bullet copper inside the necks and longitudinal scratches on the bullets . In some cases the drag left grooves in the neck brass as well. Both observed with great attention through a stereo microscope. Looking at some of the new brass, it appears that the inside of the necks are a differet finish than the rest of the inside of the case, which is bright and shiny. The inside of the necks are a darker, matte finish like nothing I've ever seen in new cases. IMHO, its small wonder that they drag on the bullets when seating, enough to cause a seating stem cup ring. I'm only running 1.7 mils of neck tension. That's what I get with new brass and also what I get when running fired brass through a .269 bushing. IE unloaded cases average .2693 and .2710 loaded, as measured with a Brown & Sharpe NIST traceable mic.
Dragging a cotton tipped applicator over the inside of the neck of a new case, as well as one that I spun a .243 bore brush in briefly, results in a small but noticeable greater resistance with the new neck. I'm going to wet tumble some tomorrow to see if that shines up the inside of the necks so I can do the cotton tipped applicator test again. Given how well wet tumbling shines up the rest of the inside of a fired case, I'm hoping it will efface the matte finish.
I'm pursuing this to see if I can tighten up the velocity SD and get better group repeatability after having spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find the right neck sizing process. Already tried modifying a Lee .243 collet and mandrel neck sizing die. While I got it to where it produces nice donut free, concentric, smooth necks on the inside, I keep getting collet bites on the outside, even with rotate and repeat strokes on the press handle. Wound up spinning each necks with some crocus cloth pinched between thumb and forefinger on the outside to make them more confidence inspiring in appearance. I've said this before but I'm not a competition shooter. Trying to simplify the amount of touch labor involved in getting the brass to shoot consistent. I love a challenge but there's a limit to my love when writer's cramp sets into these 64 yr old fingers.
P.S. Wet tumbling does not efface the longitudinal copper streaks inside the necks of fired cases, nor the collet bite marks though it knocks down their height somewhat. Rapidly running out of comfortable shooting weather up here in The Land of the Wind Chill Factor
Hoot
What is wrong with some collet marks on the OD of the neck? I have a custom Lee die, not very expensive.
I have had no issues with my Peterson gen 1 cases, but I have not looked at them in a microscope either, just shot them.
6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
guess I will make do with what I have, I have a few thou smrp but it 's all good
Hoot
Silver $$ Contributor
I'm not looking to improve as much as get consistency from one reloading session to the next.
Here's some typical results, albeit a slight difference in charge weight. I shoot 22 ARA Rimfire competition as well as centerfire. IE I get the importance of bench discipline for consistency. I have a very nice, micro-adjustable front rest and several diferent rear bags. I also have a 1-piece Pappas rest but have not tried it for load testing as I enjoy feeling like I'm shooting, not operating a machine.
The one limitation at the Sportsmen's Club about 8 minutes from my house (I'm the rifle range coordinator) is it only goes out to 100 yds. Nice stable concrete tables though. So I strive for the smallest groups possible at that distance as a metric, along with good velocity SD's.
Here's what bugs me. Two 5-shot 100 yd strings. This was with new brass that only had their primer pockets normalized and the mouths deburred. The grid is 1/2 inch. No the 38.4 didn't shoot higher. I dialed the scope up to get the impacts further away from my aim point.
Always with the one stringer and out by more than I would expect at 100 yds, given the POI of the other shots. Not choke. They came somewhere in the middle of the strings. FWIW, 1.73 is just kissing the rifling. I tried +.005 and the neither the groups nor the SD's improved. Have not tried setting them back yet. 3 hours once every Saturday does not afford a lot of shooting opportunity for a working stiff with homeowner chores and two cars to keep happy. The brass and Rem 7 1/2's liked 38.6 H4350 that time out. Have been meaning to get some CCI 450's but have a lot of the 7 1/2's. They seemed to do well in Salazar's article a few years back. Got out several times since that range day with processed 1-fired brass and the results were not nerly as consistent. That's what I'm trying to get resolved before the temps get any colder. Still got a weekend or two left to experiment.
I realize that I'm a relative newcomer to this caliber, with a lot of experience base building needed. Already looking forward to the return of comfortable shooting weather in 6 months.
Lest I forget. The wet tumbled brass is drying in the oven as I write this. Looks like I will be wet tumbling the rest of it as the necks indsides are much nicer on the couple I quickly looked at. Love the chips I just got to try instead of pins. Much faster tumble times. Not sure is that will cure my bullets scraping off in the necks. I could shot plate them. I have MoS, WS2 and HBN at my disposal. Do you guys dust the inside of your necks with dry lube on a q-tip? Open to suggestions!
Did I mention that I'm windy like this on all the forums?
Hoot
6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
yes I use the redding sizer dust on a q tip inside the nks just set the cases in a block and reload the tip every 3rd case, stick the tip in and swirl it around once makes for smooth seatingI'm not looking to improve as much as get consistency from one reloading session to the next.
Here's some typical results, albeit a slight difference in charge weight. I shoot 22 ARA Rimfire competition as well as centerfire. IE I get the importance of bench discipline for consistency. I have a very nice, micro-adjustable front rest and several diferent rear bags. I also have a 1-piece Pappas rest but have not tried it for load testing as I enjoy feeling like I'm shooting, not operating a machine.
The one limitation at the Sportsmen's Club about 8 minutes from my house (I'm the rifle range coordinator) is it only goes out to 100 yds. Nice stable concrete tables though. So I strive for the smallest groups possible at that distance as a metric, along with good velocity SD's.
Here's what bugs me. Two 5-shot 100 yd strings. This was with new brass that only had their primer pockets normalized and the mouths deburred. The grid is 1/2 inch. No the 38.4 didn't shoot higher. I dialed the scope up to get the impacts further away from my aim point.
Always with the one stringer and out by more than I would expect at 100 yds, given the POI of the other shots. Not choke. They came somewhere in the middle of the strings. FWIW, 1.73 is just kissing the rifling. I tried +.005 and the neither the groups nor the SD's improved. Have not tried setting them back yet. 3 hours once every Saturday does not afford a lot of shooting opportunity for a working stiff with homeowner chores and two cars to keep happy. The brass and Rem 7 1/2's liked 38.6 H4350 that time out. Have been meaning to get some CCI 450's but have a lot of the 7 1/2's. They seemed to do well in Salazar's article a few years back. Got out several times since that range day with processed 1-fired brass and the results were not nerly as consistent. That's what I'm trying to get resolved before the temps get any colder. Still got a weekend or two left to experiment.
I realize that I'm a relative newcomer to this caliber, with a lot of experience base building needed. Already looking forward to the return of comfortable shooting weather in 6 months.
Lest I forget. The wet tumbled brass is drying in the oven as I write this. Looks like I will be wet tumbling the rest of it as the necks indsides are much nicer on the couple I quickly looked at. Love the chips I just got to try instead of pins. Much faster tumble times. Not sure is that will cure my bullets scraping off in the necks. I could shot plate them. I have MoS, WS2 and HBN at my disposal. Do you guys dust the inside of your necks with dry lube on a q-tip? Open to suggestions!
Did I mention that I'm windy like this on all the forums?
Hoot
For 100 yards the SD does not really matter, velocity variation does not cause the fliers you have. I doubt that’s the brass also, it all went through the same process, how could it cause fliers out of good groups? Five shot groups are better than 3 shots, but more is needed to get the story. Remington 7 1/2 BRs have worked well for me in 223 at 600, again, not the reason for the fliers. Seating close to the lands is asking for trouble in my mind, either contact positively or be well off. Is this a VLD bullet?I'm not looking to improve as much as get consistency from one reloading session to the next.
Here's some typical results, albeit a slight difference in charge weight. I shoot 22 ARA Rimfire competition as well as centerfire. IE I get the importance of bench discipline for consistency. I have a very nice, micro-adjustable front rest and several diferent rear bags. I also have a 1-piece Pappas rest but have not tried it for load testing as I enjoy feeling like I'm shooting, not operating a machine.
The one limitation at the Sportsmen's Club about 8 minutes from my house (I'm the rifle range coordinator) is it only goes out to 100 yds. Nice stable concrete tables though. So I strive for the smallest groups possible at that distance as a metric, along with good velocity SD's.
Here's what bugs me. Two 5-shot 100 yd strings. This was with new brass that only had their primer pockets normalized and the mouths deburred. The grid is 1/2 inch. No the 38.4 didn't shoot higher. I dialed the scope up to get the impacts further away from my aim point.
Always with the one stringer and out by more than I would expect at 100 yds, given the POI of the other shots. Not choke. They came somewhere in the middle of the strings. FWIW, 1.73 is just kissing the rifling. I tried +.005 and the neither the groups nor the SD's improved. Have not tried setting them back yet. 3 hours once every Saturday does not afford a lot of shooting opportunity for a working stiff with homeowner chores and two cars to keep happy. The brass and Rem 7 1/2's liked 38.6 H4350 that time out. Have been meaning to get some CCI 450's but have a lot of the 7 1/2's. They seemed to do well in Salazar's article a few years back. Got out several times since that range day with processed 1-fired brass and the results were not nerly as consistent. That's what I'm trying to get resolved before the temps get any colder. Still got a weekend or two left to experiment.
I realize that I'm a relative newcomer to this caliber, with a lot of experience base building needed. Already looking forward to the return of comfortable shooting weather in 6 months.
Lest I forget. The wet tumbled brass is drying in the oven as I write this. Looks like I will be wet tumbling the rest of it as the necks indsides are much nicer on the couple I quickly looked at. Love the chips I just got to try instead of pins. Much faster tumble times. Not sure is that will cure my bullets scraping off in the necks. I could shot plate them. I have MoS, WS2 and HBN at my disposal. Do you guys dust the inside of your necks with dry lube on a q-tip? Open to suggestions!
Did I mention that I'm windy like this on all the forums?
Hoot
Try 105 Berger Hybrids or the 107 Sierras and keep them off the lands.
Hoot
Silver $$ Contributor
The Hornady 108gr ELD Match appears to be the same long taper form factor as other VLD bullets I've seen.
I decided to try some variations of neck prep to shoot this past Saturday, which started out cold (48 deg and ended up 55 by the time I was done. Normally I wouldn't call that cold but there was a 10-15 mph wind blowing directly from behind, which made it hard to feel warm. Thank God for hoods.
My experiment consisted of 21 new cases, wet tumbled until the inside of the necks were as shiny as the rest of the case. New neck OD runs close to perfectly .2694. I ran 10 of those through my .269 bushing as that's the biggest one I have and serves as an alternative to the collet/mandrel die I made. I modified a Lee 6mm Rem neck sizing die, taking great pains to make it produce necks of un-annealed, fired brass the same as the new stuff. IE .2694 as well. The new brass that went through the bushing came out precisely .269. I was surprised not to see any springback but they were after all, new.
Lastly I had 10 wet tumbled 2-fired cases, already FL sized to set the shoulders back the same as the new ones, all of which run .002-.003 less than my chamber. With those in hand, out came the 80nm HBN powder. I could have used MoS or WS2, but wanted to use up some of this pound of HBN I've had for a while. Future plans will be to just shot peen the bullets themselves but for this experiment, I tried dry burnishing the powder into the inside of the necks using cotton tipped wood handle applicators, 3 necks to a dip, tapping out any excess before charging. I chose to do this because the extra case was used as a seating resistance test and even at .2694 OD the amount of pressure needed to seat a bullet created a significant seating cup ring around it. Yes, all case mouths were deburred inside and out.
I was not surprised when I discovered that the HBN really didn't want to stick to the shiny inside of the tumbled new brass necks, even 80nm size particles! I went ahead and processed 10 cases that way anyway. I tried swirling the lower half of the copper bullets in the HBN powder and it did stick to them, so 5 of bullets were also treated. Having learned from that, I rummaged through my Cratex cylindrical burrs until I found one that fit the case necks with the slightest of snug possible and gave the next 10 new, bushing sized to .2690 cases, a quick pass through at medium RPM. They had a gentle rotary pattern inside them when I was done but not reamed to any significant degree. The HBN powder swabbed into them much more effectively, leaving a light, dusty patina behind. In an interest to keep apples to apples, I swirled the lower halves of 5 of the 10 bullets in HBN like I did with the shiny necks. That gave me 4 experimental runs of 5.
With the 2-fired cases, I took a new .224 bronze bore brush and wrapped thin layers of degreased 0000 steel wool around it until I built it up to fit slightly more snug inside the necks than the Cratex burr. I gave each neck a moderate RPM pass through and back using that setup, changing out the steel wool after 10 of them. that produced a more pronounced rotary pattern but not strong by any means. Barely detectable with a right angled dental pick. The HBN really stuck to them, even better than the Cratex burnished necks, leaving a distinct powdered appearance but not blotchy.
After a coffee break, I charged all the cases with 38.6gr of H4350 and began seating.
The first 5 shiny new necks with little noticeable HBN buildup were almost the same resistance as the test one with none. No surprise there but definitely some variation in resistance as the 5 were loaded.
Next same shiny, minimally dusted case necks but with bullets that were swirled in the powder and tapped off. Much to my surprise, they were harder to seat than the plain bullets. I'm thinking a swirling dust up leaves too much on the bullets compared to shot peening. On to the .2690 necks with the Cratex burnish.
Despite being sized to .2690, instead of the first runs at .2694, the resistance to seating was still the same. IE enough to cause seating cup rings on every bullet. I credit that to the light burnishing holding more HBN than the shiny ones. The resistance went up when I tried the next 5 with the swirled bullets, just like the first batch. For that reason, when I got to the .2694 sized 2-fired cases, I abandoned swirling those bullets. To reiterate, those bore brushed necks held the most HBN and to my pleasure those bullets seated just as Goldilocks exclaimed, "Feels Just Right", leaving barely discernible seating cup ring marks of no significance. I wiped all 30 bullets down with mineral spirits to get any residual HBN off of them and headed to the range. At this point I'm thinking I should have wrote this endeavor up as a standalone Range Report but I feel like the late arrival to the party in that the 6XC was beat to death years ago. IE New to me but not you all. I can continue here if you want with statistics and target images or take it outside this thread. ???
Hoot
I decided to try some variations of neck prep to shoot this past Saturday, which started out cold (48 deg and ended up 55 by the time I was done. Normally I wouldn't call that cold but there was a 10-15 mph wind blowing directly from behind, which made it hard to feel warm. Thank God for hoods.
My experiment consisted of 21 new cases, wet tumbled until the inside of the necks were as shiny as the rest of the case. New neck OD runs close to perfectly .2694. I ran 10 of those through my .269 bushing as that's the biggest one I have and serves as an alternative to the collet/mandrel die I made. I modified a Lee 6mm Rem neck sizing die, taking great pains to make it produce necks of un-annealed, fired brass the same as the new stuff. IE .2694 as well. The new brass that went through the bushing came out precisely .269. I was surprised not to see any springback but they were after all, new.
Lastly I had 10 wet tumbled 2-fired cases, already FL sized to set the shoulders back the same as the new ones, all of which run .002-.003 less than my chamber. With those in hand, out came the 80nm HBN powder. I could have used MoS or WS2, but wanted to use up some of this pound of HBN I've had for a while. Future plans will be to just shot peen the bullets themselves but for this experiment, I tried dry burnishing the powder into the inside of the necks using cotton tipped wood handle applicators, 3 necks to a dip, tapping out any excess before charging. I chose to do this because the extra case was used as a seating resistance test and even at .2694 OD the amount of pressure needed to seat a bullet created a significant seating cup ring around it. Yes, all case mouths were deburred inside and out.
I was not surprised when I discovered that the HBN really didn't want to stick to the shiny inside of the tumbled new brass necks, even 80nm size particles! I went ahead and processed 10 cases that way anyway. I tried swirling the lower half of the copper bullets in the HBN powder and it did stick to them, so 5 of bullets were also treated. Having learned from that, I rummaged through my Cratex cylindrical burrs until I found one that fit the case necks with the slightest of snug possible and gave the next 10 new, bushing sized to .2690 cases, a quick pass through at medium RPM. They had a gentle rotary pattern inside them when I was done but not reamed to any significant degree. The HBN powder swabbed into them much more effectively, leaving a light, dusty patina behind. In an interest to keep apples to apples, I swirled the lower halves of 5 of the 10 bullets in HBN like I did with the shiny necks. That gave me 4 experimental runs of 5.
With the 2-fired cases, I took a new .224 bronze bore brush and wrapped thin layers of degreased 0000 steel wool around it until I built it up to fit slightly more snug inside the necks than the Cratex burr. I gave each neck a moderate RPM pass through and back using that setup, changing out the steel wool after 10 of them. that produced a more pronounced rotary pattern but not strong by any means. Barely detectable with a right angled dental pick. The HBN really stuck to them, even better than the Cratex burnished necks, leaving a distinct powdered appearance but not blotchy.
After a coffee break, I charged all the cases with 38.6gr of H4350 and began seating.
The first 5 shiny new necks with little noticeable HBN buildup were almost the same resistance as the test one with none. No surprise there but definitely some variation in resistance as the 5 were loaded.
Next same shiny, minimally dusted case necks but with bullets that were swirled in the powder and tapped off. Much to my surprise, they were harder to seat than the plain bullets. I'm thinking a swirling dust up leaves too much on the bullets compared to shot peening. On to the .2690 necks with the Cratex burnish.
Despite being sized to .2690, instead of the first runs at .2694, the resistance to seating was still the same. IE enough to cause seating cup rings on every bullet. I credit that to the light burnishing holding more HBN than the shiny ones. The resistance went up when I tried the next 5 with the swirled bullets, just like the first batch. For that reason, when I got to the .2694 sized 2-fired cases, I abandoned swirling those bullets. To reiterate, those bore brushed necks held the most HBN and to my pleasure those bullets seated just as Goldilocks exclaimed, "Feels Just Right", leaving barely discernible seating cup ring marks of no significance. I wiped all 30 bullets down with mineral spirits to get any residual HBN off of them and headed to the range. At this point I'm thinking I should have wrote this endeavor up as a standalone Range Report but I feel like the late arrival to the party in that the 6XC was beat to death years ago. IE New to me but not you all. I can continue here if you want with statistics and target images or take it outside this thread. ???
Hoot
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6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
keep on posting I like it
Dang it Hoot After the case is fired the first time, I clean primer pocket with a cutter. I use some semi chrome on a small piece of 000 steel wool and wipe the outside of the neck and shoulder then wipe off with paper towel. then I run a tight fitting bronze bore brush on a battery powered drill inside the neck and I try to keep my run in and out of the neck the same case to case. then I lube and size case, wipe case off. prime and fill powder, then I put a little imperial size wax between my fingers and lightly wipe some size lube on my bullet base very very light lube on the bullet that will fit in the neck. this work very well for me no matter what I am loading. I feel it helps even out the neck tension and get the same from case to case and that's it. I do not tumble or clean but have done everything you can think of. If I anneal I clean inside the neck before and after anneal with the bore brush on the drill and use a dry neck lube inside the neck.
give this a try and see what you think.
Hoot unexplained shots out the bottom of the group, You are picking your head up as the rifle fires.I do it all the time even with 22LR I have four in a hole and one 1/2 out the bottom..Lifted my head as I broke the trigger and out the bottom it goes.
give this a try and see what you think.
Hoot unexplained shots out the bottom of the group, You are picking your head up as the rifle fires.I do it all the time even with 22LR I have four in a hole and one 1/2 out the bottom..Lifted my head as I broke the trigger and out the bottom it goes.
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Thoughts on annealing before resizing? If not annealing after each firing, how does one determine a rationale for when annealing is necessary? My routine has migrated to annealing every firing prior to resizing, mainly to keep a simple routine and consistency. I hate guessing if this or,that,got done with this or that batch of brass.
D
D
dbduff yes you almost have to anneal every firing to get good consistent neck tension. I have a bench source and I was doing what I call a maintenance anneal every firing before sizing, I kind of had the flame and dwell time down. But I rarely anneal. I just shoot them. I mainly needed it when forming some cases you have to anneal them or they split.
I use it some but not too much.
I use it some but not too much.
This a bunch of very labor intense processing. Curious what the results were. I suspect that the difference was almost undetectable, but the data should show whatever goes on.
VLD bullets are temperamental so they add an additional variable.
Hoot
Silver $$ Contributor
Yes, much more fiddling with than I'm accustomed to. Just giving the devil his due. Spent some time Googling "semi chrome". Sat back and just looked at it and suddenly it occurred to me you meant Simichrome Polish. I did however learn about all the doo dads you can buy to dress up your big rig.
The velocities as you suspected, did not vary much despite different variations of neck prep. The ones I rubbed HBN into the neck and also swirled the bullet bases in, which I noticed had more seating resistance, ran a few fps faster, no doubt due to the slight increase in pressure before the bullets release. To that end, let me correct a misinterpretation on my behalf. Yes, the bullets were too tight but when I pulled some previous loads down and observed significant copper streaks built up inside the necks, I now believe they were the result of pulling them back out after they bonded from the insertion resistance. I observed little to no buildup on the fired cases from this ast Saturday. I worked in Engineering and reloaded too long (40+ years) to not realize what a rookie rush to judgement that was. I'm over it, moving along...
6mmsteve said:
I do enjoy tinkering, to an end. With the 6XC, I'm plowing new ground so I don't know what is time well spent doing research versus just time spent. I do enjoy learning on the fly and playing with a new (for me) caliber is an opportunity for enlightenment. Some times the tuition bill arrives in the form of exasperation however and sometimes in extreme delight in having turned over a rock to discover a truffle. I could be hanging out in bars. I'm committed to fleshing out what performance I can from the 6XC, with my particular rig. It's definitely not your competition based hardware like a custom AICs platform put together by a noteworthy smith, not even a RPR. Just a Rem 700 thumbhole varminter that's been rebarreled. I do have the benefit of some useful shooting equipment accrued over the years, a well rounded mancave and the pleasure of time spent in it as well as on the range. I hope to get my ammo worked out to where I will feel confident going to an actual long distance range and expanding my knowledge (cough exasperation) of the discipline needed to take my shots out further. All in good time. Meanwhile, my 260 Rem platform is really feeling neglected... All in good time.
Wound up getting collared by the better half to spend some time together since we went our separate ways this past weekend. She's not fond of "All in good time!" Didn't get my target scans annotated yet but promise to get them up tomorrow. 04:30 comes pretty early.
Hoot
Hoot
Silver $$ Contributor
Sorry to be so late getting these up. Better half lured me to LR to see new Ron White's new comedy routine. Kept hoping it would be as good as his earlier work. Unfortunately a little ho-hum.
A note to explain varying COL's: The seating resistance really fought me getting consistent COL's without changing the die setting, which I didn't want to do. Serious seating cup rings as it was until last two groups.
Here they are. Hope you can read the annotations.
T2-2 was my best 5-shot group and my worst disappointment when shot #4 went low right. Again with the stringers!
Hoping for a couple more Saturdays of tolerable weather (I'm a cold weeny in the wrong state). Since I'm addicted to the look of wet tumbled brass, I will add brushing the inside of the necks with a 22 cal bore brush built up with 0000 steel wool. First some plain bullets and maybe some shot plated HBN ones. I'm assuming I'll have to adjust the charge to get the velocity back up. If that's all the extra steps it takes to get good results with these Hornady 108gr ELD Match bullets, so be it. Next spring I'll try some other ELD/VLD style bullets. The Sierra 95gr Tipped Match Kings showed some promise in my 1:8 twist barrel a few weeks back. Just did a couple test groups to see how they flew. There is merit in the advice to try the 108's back off the lands as well. Too bad the blems at Midway are all sold out. Should have gotten more than 1 extra box. Need more O.T. to support my habit.
Hoot
A note to explain varying COL's: The seating resistance really fought me getting consistent COL's without changing the die setting, which I didn't want to do. Serious seating cup rings as it was until last two groups.
Here they are. Hope you can read the annotations.
T2-2 was my best 5-shot group and my worst disappointment when shot #4 went low right. Again with the stringers!
Hoping for a couple more Saturdays of tolerable weather (I'm a cold weeny in the wrong state). Since I'm addicted to the look of wet tumbled brass, I will add brushing the inside of the necks with a 22 cal bore brush built up with 0000 steel wool. First some plain bullets and maybe some shot plated HBN ones. I'm assuming I'll have to adjust the charge to get the velocity back up. If that's all the extra steps it takes to get good results with these Hornady 108gr ELD Match bullets, so be it. Next spring I'll try some other ELD/VLD style bullets. The Sierra 95gr Tipped Match Kings showed some promise in my 1:8 twist barrel a few weeks back. Just did a couple test groups to see how they flew. There is merit in the advice to try the 108's back off the lands as well. Too bad the blems at Midway are all sold out. Should have gotten more than 1 extra box. Need more O.T. to support my habit.
Hoot
Looking at your targets I’m pretty sure that the fliers are not ammunition related. There is no chance that all fliers from ammunition all would go out at 5.30.Sorry to be so late getting these up. Better half lured me to LR to see new Ron White's new comedy routine. Kept hoping it would be as good as his earlier work. Unfortunately a little ho-hum.
A note to explain varying COL's: The seating resistance really fought me getting consistent COL's without changing the die setting, which I didn't want to do. Serious seating cup rings as it was until last two groups.
Here they are. Hope you can read the annotations.
T2-2 was my best 5-shot group and my worst disappointment when shot #4 went low right. Again with the stringers!
Hoping for a couple more Saturdays of tolerable weather (I'm a cold weeny in the wrong state). Since I'm addicted to the look of wet tumbled brass, I will add brushing the inside of the necks with a 22 cal bore brush built up with 0000 steel wool. First some plain bullets and maybe some shot plated HBN ones. I'm assuming I'll have to adjust the charge to get the velocity back up. If that's all the extra steps it takes to get good results with these Hornady 108gr ELD Match bullets, so be it. Next spring I'll try some other ELD/VLD style bullets. The Sierra 95gr Tipped Match Kings showed some promise in my 1:8 twist barrel a few weeks back. Just did a couple test groups to see how they flew. There is merit in the advice to try the 108's back off the lands as well. Too bad the blems at Midway are all sold out. Should have gotten more than 1 extra box. Need more O.T. to support my habit.
Hoot
I would mostly agree. Most of the time when you see consistent shots out of good groups it is shooter related. BUT sometimes it could be something weird.
I would say several groups have a bug hole with a shot out. When ever I do that, I load 25 of the same load and go shoot five five shot groups and see what I got. was that shot lost to conditions, operator ect.. Now sometimes when you are seeing something like this and it is not the shooter. It is the bullet. Shoot another bullet. Berger 105 HVLD is one I could recommend and if the one shot that is always out goes away its them Hoaky Hornady bullets that have been coming apart. If you print the same groups with the Berger bullet I would look hard at yourself and bench set up.
I once had a freeky accurate 6XC 1-7 twist and I keep loosing shots horizontally at longer ranges and most would say wind ect. but I noticed it was always the same way and the wind did not cause it on some shots for sure. So I talked to a few guys who knew I was serious and it was not the wind and they instructed me that the vertical grip on my rifle and thumb hole stocks are known to cause unwanted horizontal so I changed how I was shooting the rifle and the problem went away. Now if it was out I call the wind did it.
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Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.