6XC Peterson Brass?
- Thread starter Frankr
- Start date
All my local distributor knew was that David Tubb is supposed to get the first batch.
Hoot
Here you go. Its kind of a no-brainer but works great.
Impale the eraser on the tip (obviously) stopping before it comes out the far side.
Case of IMR8208XBR (small extruded)
Applying the vibe. Adjust intensity for best results. More is not always best. Depends upon powder and case resonance.
Resultant drop after 10 seconds, which is about how long it takes my Lyman 1200 DPS-III to drop the next charge.
Cheap and easy project. Again, for those wishing to cram every last granule of powder in without the telltale crunch when you seat your bullet. It seems like the larger the extruded powder granules, the better it works. Not nearly as pronounced with ball powders.
Hoot
While the vibration thing is kind of cool, Have you ever seen what a long drop tube and a slow trickle into it will do.
I would bet you'd get that charge below the neck. I was talking to a older gunsmith one day and we were talking 6PPC and he said no way they are getting 30.0 grs in that case, He had tried and bet me I could not. A long drop tube and a slow fill and you can get 30.0 grs below the neck so the bullet is not crunching the powder. I learned that trick from benchrest shooter's. I too at one time could not understand how they got that much powder in there when 25.0 grs seemed to fill the case.
I would bet you'd get that charge below the neck. I was talking to a older gunsmith one day and we were talking 6PPC and he said no way they are getting 30.0 grs in that case, He had tried and bet me I could not. A long drop tube and a slow fill and you can get 30.0 grs below the neck so the bullet is not crunching the powder. I learned that trick from benchrest shooter's. I too at one time could not understand how they got that much powder in there when 25.0 grs seemed to fill the case.
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Hoot's solution is a dandy!
Long drop tubes made from arrow shafts are an alternative, start at 10".
Long drop tube in addition to Hoot's solution if you find that your powder choice has a spike from being compressed, I used this on a 6/250 AI.
Long drop tubes made from arrow shafts are an alternative, start at 10".
Long drop tube in addition to Hoot's solution if you find that your powder choice has a spike from being compressed, I used this on a 6/250 AI.
Who did u order thru and what chamber specs ?
6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
Northland shooters supply It's a criterion should be just standard chamber it's not a match barrel I have had good luck with the criterion barrels they are not a Kreg Brux or Broughton but I just plink here at home, pump up my own ego uno lol....if the freebore is not what I like I will trim it to my liken
thanks for the reply. I started shooting at Ridgway last year and my daughter started shooting with me this year. Pounding a bone stock model 12 LRP IN 243 pretty hard. I bought her a used savage 12 benchrest. Think I gona buy 2 of thier match barrels in 6xc and start fresh next year. I just don't want to give up on my factory barrel yet.
6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
the Criterions will work if I was shooting comp might go with a Brux just depends on how much money you want to spend, I have a 308 Criterion that shot a1inch group at 500 yds the other day My Brother was shooting he has a very steady hand, me not so much lol.... barrel has 2600 rds on it and it just keeps on shootin
6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
Good Luck and hope you and your daughter do well and have fun
thames we are having a ball . I went there with a 400 yard woodchuck gun having never even shot paper past 500 yards in 2017. Wow am I learned the hard way fast. People there are awsome, friendly and helpful. My daughter beat me with my own file on three different days. Kid does well for having a dad who is learning himself . A real eye opener shooting there. My first trip there I showed up with 87 grain vmax. Barley enough to topple a coyote at 1k. I now shoot berger 95 vld. They hit noticeably harder. I'm really stretching the factory gun in a 26 inch barrel. Using a 6x25 burris black diamond.
2 nightforce BR scopes are on my short list also.
You better get a patent on this. Just too plain simple, and looks like it works!Here you go. Its kind of a no-brainer but works great.
Impale the eraser on the tip (obviously) stopping before it comes out the far side.
Case of IMR8208XBR (small extruded)
Applying the vibe. Adjust intensity for best results. More is not always best. Depends upon powder and case resonance.
Resultant drop after 10 seconds, which is about how long it takes my Lyman 1200 DPS-III to drop the next charge.
Cheap and easy project. Again, for those wishing to cram every last granule of powder in without the telltale crunch when you seat your bullet. It seems like the larger the extruded powder granules, the better it works. Not nearly as pronounced with ball powders.
Hoot
Chemists and manufacturers were using vibe tables back before I was in college in the 70's. If you have a manufacturing surplus store in your area or check Ebay, you could do many cases at the same time. Take some double stick tape and mount a reloading tray to the top plate so that they don't dance all over the place. It is as much art as science. If you get one that you can adjust the vibe frequency as well as the intensity, you can fine tune it for this particular application. Experience has shown that less is more. You don't want the intensity so great that the aligned granules jump back out of alignment once they settle in. IIRC, the case in those pictures was a 300 OSSM (necked up 25 WSSM). I originally posted that in 2010 or 2011 on the now defunct Olympic Arms web page. Possibly the 6.5 Grendel page as well. Got a few "Cool" remarks but to my knowledge, it never took off.
Though I understand the concept and have the materials to make one down in my "Walter Middy" man cave, I've never used a drop tube.
Hoot
I've never gotten to the point of crushing powder in a case. Usually have found an accuracy point I'm content with before that point. I'm mainly shooting 6 br and 6 br variants at 300 yards. Unless we want to travel a long distance, 300 yard ranges are the extent of what is available. Like what you're suggesting regarding vibe tables. My limited experience is that finer granuals seem to find settling less as issue. The larger grained powders end up like sticks needing the vibration to settle. Most of what powders I'm using, h4895, are finer grained. Great idea.
D
On a different tangent and stop me if this has come up before. Actually direct me to the thread. I bought these bags of Gen 1 SRP brass because they were less than half the price of their Gen 2 from my local distributor friend. I've had occasion to pull down some loads a few times now due to the direction the ladder was headed. I noticed long streaks of the bullet copper inside the necks and longitudinal scratches on the bullets . In some cases the drag left grooves in the neck brass as well. Both observed with great attention through a stereo microscope. Looking at some of the new brass, it appears that the inside of the necks are a differet finish than the rest of the inside of the case, which is bright and shiny. The inside of the necks are a darker, matte finish like nothing I've ever seen in new cases. IMHO, its small wonder that they drag on the bullets when seating, enough to cause a seating stem cup ring. I'm only running 1.7 mils of neck tension. That's what I get with new brass and also what I get when running fired brass through a .269 bushing. IE unloaded cases average .2693 and .2710 loaded, as measured with a Brown & Sharpe NIST traceable mic.
Dragging a cotton tipped applicator over the inside of the neck of a new case, as well as one that I spun a .243 bore brush in briefly, results in a small but noticeable greater resistance with the new neck. I'm going to wet tumble some tomorrow to see if that shines up the inside of the necks so I can do the cotton tipped applicator test again. Given how well wet tumbling shines up the rest of the inside of a fired case, I'm hoping it will efface the matte finish.
I'm pursuing this to see if I can tighten up the velocity SD and get better group repeatability after having spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find the right neck sizing process. Already tried modifying a Lee .243 collet and mandrel neck sizing die. While I got it to where it produces nice donut free, concentric, smooth necks on the inside, I keep getting collet bites on the outside, even with rotate and repeat strokes on the press handle. Wound up spinning each necks with some crocus cloth pinched between thumb and forefinger on the outside to make them more confidence inspiring in appearance. I've said this before but I'm not a competition shooter. Trying to simplify the amount of touch labor involved in getting the brass to shoot consistent. I love a challenge but there's a limit to my love when writer's cramp sets into these 64 yr old fingers.
P.S. Wet tumbling does not efface the longitudinal copper streaks inside the necks of fired cases, nor the collet bite marks though it knocks down their height somewhat. Rapidly running out of comfortable shooting weather up here in The Land of the Wind Chill Factor
Hoot
Dragging a cotton tipped applicator over the inside of the neck of a new case, as well as one that I spun a .243 bore brush in briefly, results in a small but noticeable greater resistance with the new neck. I'm going to wet tumble some tomorrow to see if that shines up the inside of the necks so I can do the cotton tipped applicator test again. Given how well wet tumbling shines up the rest of the inside of a fired case, I'm hoping it will efface the matte finish.
I'm pursuing this to see if I can tighten up the velocity SD and get better group repeatability after having spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find the right neck sizing process. Already tried modifying a Lee .243 collet and mandrel neck sizing die. While I got it to where it produces nice donut free, concentric, smooth necks on the inside, I keep getting collet bites on the outside, even with rotate and repeat strokes on the press handle. Wound up spinning each necks with some crocus cloth pinched between thumb and forefinger on the outside to make them more confidence inspiring in appearance. I've said this before but I'm not a competition shooter. Trying to simplify the amount of touch labor involved in getting the brass to shoot consistent. I love a challenge but there's a limit to my love when writer's cramp sets into these 64 yr old fingers.
P.S. Wet tumbling does not efface the longitudinal copper streaks inside the necks of fired cases, nor the collet bite marks though it knocks down their height somewhat. Rapidly running out of comfortable shooting weather up here in The Land of the Wind Chill Factor
Hoot
I got those same streaks on new Peterson SRP 243 brass after exspanding new, unfired cases in preparation for skimming the necks. Believe it showed up from rubbing on K and M expander body as it didn't appear before expanding.
Also, prepping Peterson SRP brass for tight necked 6 slr I'm finding, using. K and M hand primer that the pockets are very tight for br4 primers. Am 74 and never had issue with getting .oo2 crush with this tool until now. Have gone to bullets .com bench mounted seater, works good. After one moderate fire forming load, still quite tight, as not easy, to ream out pockets with power without case grabbing and spinning. Upside, exceedingly uniform as regards weight sorting. This is nice brass and if it holds up, will provide SRP for some calibers Lapua doesn't offer.
D
D
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