Welcome to the new HQ

[Sniperhandle]

 

[Skedaddle Shooter]

As far as wall finishes go... I will probably do metal for the bottom 3-4 feet and plywood for the rest. For the reasons you said.

When I built my shop I use a metal wainscot as well. Just galvanized roofing. You can install similar furring on the inside face of the posts and attach the wainscot and drywall above it. It was cheaper for me to install the metal than it was to have my sheet rockers and painters install the drywall. If you’re doing the drywall and painting yourself that would change the equation but I promised myself I wouldn’t hang and tape drywall any more.

 

[tobnpr]

Can you elaborate on this? Thanks

It's about the volume of the interior space you're conditioning (HVAC). If you spray foam the underside of your roof deck, the interior volume of the conditioned space includes the entire area above the ceiling below. Usually, this done for exposed structure occupancies where there is no ceiling- like warehouses, and shops...
With an insulated ceiling, only the area/cf under the ceiling is conditioned which requires less tonnage due to the smaller area.
There's a lot that goes into planning before any structure is built, and failing to consider critical items can tank a project and blow the budget out of the water.

Like... if you're conditioning a shop or garage space, you need insulated doors- including overhead roll-ups.

I recently completed construction of a supermarket for a well-known national chain. Somehow, some way, the mechanical engineer thought it would be just fine to have the entire back-of-house unconditioned- no HVAC whatsoever, and this is in Florida. No problem at the time we completed the store in March, but i knew the debt would come due. By May, as temps climbed into the 90's, millions of dollars in state-of-the-art coolers and freezers around the perimeter of the store sweating profusely and unable to maintain temperature, they had to empty out half the store and bring in several large, portable water-cooled air conditioners for the back of house.

I relate this story only to stress that it's far best to have a complete plan down to the equipment and finishes before sticking a shovel in the dirt. Design mistakes or omissions can be very costly to rectify.

 

[Mike Casselton]

It's about the volume of the interior space you're conditioning (HVAC). If you spray foam the underside of your roof deck, the interior volume of the conditioned space includes the entire area above the ceiling below. Usually, this done for exposed structure occupancies where there is no ceiling- like warehouses, and shops...
With an insulated ceiling, only the area/cf under the ceiling is conditioned which requires less tonnage due to the smaller area.
There's a lot that goes into planning before any structure is built, and failing to consider critical items can tank a project and blow the budget out of the water.

Like... if you're conditioning a shop or garage space, you need insulated doors- including overhead roll-ups.

I recently completed construction of a supermarket for a well-known national chain. Somehow, some way, the mechanical engineer thought it would be just fine to have the entire back-of-house unconditioned- no HVAC whatsoever, and this is in Florida. No problem at the time we completed the store in March, but i knew the debt would come due. By May, as temps climbed into the 90's, millions of dollars in state-of-the-art coolers and freezers around the perimeter of the store sweating profusely and unable to maintain temperature, they had to empty out half the store and bring in several large, portable water-cooled air conditioners for the back of house.

I relate this story only to stress that it's far best to have a complete plan down to the equipment and finishes before sticking a shovel in the dirt. Design mistakes or omissions can be very costly to rectify.

That sounds like the Aldi in Fishawk.
They had a ton of problems with their freezers for about 8 months.

 

[tobnpr]

TT

That sounds like the Aldi in Fishawk.
They had a ton of problems with their freezers for about 8 months.

LMAO...
This one was south Lakeland just north of Mulberry. We were about to go under contract for a second store in Tampa (not sure if it was that one) but we backed out of the contract just in time. Yep, they effed up a lot of stores with the same prototype. Mine was the first of the Winn-Dixie to Aldi conversions in the state and needless to say, they (Aldi) had a very ambitious buildout program and they ended up putting the brakes on it.

 

[Mike Casselton]

This was also a W/D to Aldi conversion.
It's at Lithia Pinecrest and Fishawk Blvd. A few miles NW of SR 39.

Haven't been to the Mulberry Aldi, but now that I know it's there, we will probably make a drive or two to stock up on needful things for the range.

We got it open on 1 October as planned, but it looks like we're limited to the current 500yds.
Purchasing the adjacent property for the mile doesn't look like it'll happen.

 

[urbanrifleman]

The lower floor of the Hudson.

 

[joshb]

Wow, R30 fiberglass batts, I've never seen an Rvalue above 10.
Here in New Zealand fibreglass wall batts for 4" walls (90mm cavity) are R2.2-2.8, and for 5" (140mm) wall cavity R3.2-4.3, ceiling batts R2.9-7.4

You must either have some super duper fiberglass or there must be a different way of measuring R value.

Somebody mentioned lining the walls with plywood or drywall, I love plywood, although more expensive than drywall, if you use thick enough plywood you can hang just about anything anywhere

Maybe it’s a metric conversion?

 

[LVLAaron]

It'll be metal on the bottom 3-4 feet so it can be wiped down/cleaned easily. The rest will be plywood, like Kiwi said, it makes things easy for attaching shelves, power strips, cabinets, etc .

 

[DShortt]

I just used 5/8 firerock drywall on the ceiling and sprayed cellulose on top. Used OSB on the walls. No sidewall insulation. Heated with wood. Just a small office area/ loading room with a window A/C for summer. In the event of a fire, I figured the firerock would give me enough time to decide if I could get it out or if I just needed to escape and worry about losses later. Rual area.

If you stuck a pin in the middle of the US, that's REALLY close to where I was. Hot in summer. 100° or slightly above. Cold in winter. -20° or more.

Depending on your fire code, you may or may not regret that later. I figured all the heat was going up or coming in from above, depending on the season.

Mine was conventional studded walls with osb and vinal siding though.

Apples and Oranges.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I was told insulating the roof, like spray foam on the rafters was more efficient than putting in a ceiling and insulation it. Not sure if its true but I chose to do that because I like the head room. Feels more roomy and the burning oil smoke can dissipate more. I had 14 foot ceilings in MT. and liked that a lot.

 

[Kiwishooter]

I was told insulating the roof, like spray foam on the rafters was more efficient than putting in a ceiling and insulation it. Not sure if its true but I chose to do that because I like the head room. Feels more roomy and the burning oil smoke can dissipate more. I had 14 foot ceilings in MT. and liked that a lot.

I had exposed flooor joists in my basement and installed batts and a ceiling, somehow the areas seemed smaller.
The headroom does make a difference to perceived size.

 

[Kiwishooter]

It'll be metal on the bottom 3-4 feet so it can be wiped down/cleaned easily. The rest will be plywood, like Kiwi said, it makes things easy for attaching shelves, power strips, cabinets, etc .

I solved the problem of oil streaks on the wall by hanging an easy wipe sheet of acrylic.
Oil streaks are easy to clean and every so often I change the sheet, and if you use the right colour acrylic you can’t see the streaks.
I also use the acrylic sheets as a splash back in certain areas, the benefit is flat walls and the ability to attach things to the wall anywhere, even cabinets to prevent tip over.

 

[LVLAaron]

I solved the problem of oil streaks on the wall by hanging an easy wipe sheet of acrylic.
Oil streaks are easy to clean and every so often I change the sheet, and if you use the right colour acrylic you can’t see the streaks.
I also use the acrylic sheets as a splash back in certain areas, the benefit is flat walls and the ability to attach things to the wall anywhere, even cabinets to prevent tip over.

I basically do the same now (old shop) - Local big box has sheets of fiber board with some kind of hard white enamel coating. Great for workbench table tops and wiping oils off of!

 

[urbanrifleman]

The Macks building.

 

[LVLAaron]

The weather here has been incredibly punishing the past 2 weeks. First day today above freezing. Found a local post frame builder who is going to install a metal ceiling next week, so I'm busy taking down lights / garage door rails etc so they have a clean slate. They're also putting up the dividing wall.

 

[LVLAaron]

Still spinning myself in circles about the insulation. The ceiling will get blown in. The walls.... Foam? Direct to metal or leave the wrap? Or add a bunch of framing and use rockwool.

I'll ask the builders when they're here next week.

So she'll be air-tight enough to be able to keep the humidity under control and can start the really fun job of moving my machines in.

 

[Stumpy1]

Aaron,

I did rigid foam nailed to the purlins (1") tape sealed. I figured it would allow any condensation to drip out on the steel sides.
Then, I stud framed the wall to flush with the posts on the interior, and used fiberglass batts to suit. Flakeboard is the finished wall surface.

18" of blown in cellulose in the attic. Friends don't let friends use blown in fiberglass...

You can heat the thing with two candles (almost). A 5000 btu window A/C cools it all summer, and a 5,000 watt garage heater takes care of things in the winter.

My shop is 24x36, and it was 11 degrees outside this morning...

Frank

 

[ELR LVR]

The weather here has been incredibly punishing the past 2 weeks. First day today above freezing. Found a local post frame builder who is going to install a metal ceiling next week, so I'm busy taking down lights / garage door rails etc so they have a clean slate. They're also putting up the dividing wall.


View attachment 1741001

How do you insulate the gap at the top of the roll up doors?

 

[ebb]

I have used the old fluorescent lights and led lights that are 4 foot that look like a fluorescent shop lights for many years. Finally the 6, 8 foot double tube lights in the center isle of my shop started dying. I bought 3 of these and they are amazing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP8VQYRG?tag=accuratescom-20 You have to wear sunglasses in the shop now.