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- Thread starter LVLAaron
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Lot of folks around here like an inch and half or so of spray foam on ceilings and walls, claims it really ties in the metal roofing too. I need to find out if it will go over the lining like you already have there.
Jud96
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I did 2” of closed cell spray foam on all the walls and the ceiling in my shop. It’s a block building and it wasn’t framed inside, so the spray foam was the most cost effective solution for me vs framing then fiberglass batt insulation. The foam also sealed up everything adding to the effectiveness of the insulation.
You could put batts of insulation in your building since it’s framed then put plywood or drywall over it. That would be more cost effective vs spray foaming in your situation. You could also looking into the 4x8 insulation boards, you can get them in R10 and they’re only about 2” thick if memory serves me right.
You could put batts of insulation in your building since it’s framed then put plywood or drywall over it. That would be more cost effective vs spray foaming in your situation. You could also looking into the 4x8 insulation boards, you can get them in R10 and they’re only about 2” thick if memory serves me right.
Bill Rodolph
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Your in Cushing? I used to have cousins in Drumright, many years ago
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Spray foam for the walls.
Suspended ceiling grid with R30 fiberglass batt insulation on top. Cheap plastic coated fire resistant “drywall” panels in the grid. It’s what I did in my 25 x 50 shop. It allows you to easily add stuff above the ceiling, like more electric and HVAC.
I have 21 inches of sprayed in fiberglass insulation in the lid and it keeps it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
I've seen tunnels built for the doors before. Stand one tile on it's side.
I was in residential and light commercial business in a previous life.
I was in residential and light commercial business in a previous life.
Getting the walls sprayed too is the only way to go these days, They pack it in there tight, No chance of it settling. Batts have too many air pockets especially if you have an installer that doesn't care. I have 10 foot four ceilings and had the walls and attic sprayed. My drywaller went around the garage door hardware.
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urbanrifleman
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When we get done building the new place we will move.
Ceiling...
You need to determine what that's gonna be...
If you go with ACT with batts on top of the tiles, that'll probably be very cost-efficient, quick to install with a lot of flexibility when it comes to lighting. You can use typical 2x4 LED lay-ins for general lighting, and mix it up with directional track lights on the mains. Easy to drop structural members from the trusses where needed and just cut the tiles around the penetrations. Your trusses aren't typical 2' oc which would be suitable for a drywall lid; you would need to cross-fur the bottom chords with 2x4's at 2' oc which would be a fair amount of $$ to do drywall...
Closed-cell foam is fine- but keep in mind that you're greatly increasing the volume of your conditioned envelope for the building. You're not heating/cooling "X" sf to a 10' ceiling height- you're conditioning the entire interior volume of the space (whether you put a ceiling in below is largely irrelevant)- which will require substantially more tonnage for heating/cooling. More expensive initially in terms of equipment, and larger $$ utility bills.
I would go with the ACT and R-30 batts as was suggested above. Construct a couple of 3/4" plywood catwalks (rip em lengthwise to 2' wide) and lay them at third points the length of the building. Makes it easy to add conduit, etc down the road from above. The trusses look to be about 5' oc, it'll def be "spongy" but should be OK to walk on.
The walls being vertical posts with purlins for the exterior sheathing will of course need to be infill framed between the structural posts for your interior. Personally, I'd use BC plywood instead of drywall- you can mount anything, anywhere without needing to hit a stud or add blocking. BC provides a decent finish for paint, installation is clean (use trim head screws for easy removal/replacement if you need to an area) and cost is in the same ballpark as purchasing/hanging/finishing drywall. If you choose to add plumbing, electrical , air etc. sometime down the road- and don't like surface mount the plywood is easy to remove and replace (you'd need to use batts instead of spray foam for this flexibility).
Note that rigid insulation board, and paper-backed batts cannot be left exposed under national building codes due to flammability/fire rating. You can get foil-faced batts as well as rigid board that can be left exposed- but you don't want to know what that costs...
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LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
As far as wall finishes go... I will probably do metal for the bottom 3-4 feet and plywood for the rest. For the reasons you said.
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
One side of the downstairs of the big building. It was built in 1921. Solid steel reinforced concrete, both floors and the roof. It was built as a Ford dealership.
I made a mistake, I said sprayed in insulation in the walls, It's blown into the walls, They put very tight netting on the studs and put a hole in it at the top and the bottom and blow it into the walls. No chance for air gaps at all, And before they do that, They go around with spray foam and seal all the cracks leading to the outside top and bottom.
Jud96
Site $$ Sponsor
Can you elaborate on this? Thanks
Jud96
Site $$ Sponsor
Why is that a mistake? I don’t know HVAC stuff that well and trying to better understand. Thanks
Look at the second quote here, I just made the mistake of saying sprayed, Rather than blown in.
My mistake, Just clarifying, nothing to do with your question per se.
Wow, R30 fiberglass batts, I've never seen an Rvalue above 10.
Here in New Zealand fibreglass wall batts for 4" walls (90mm cavity) are R2.2-2.8, and for 5" (140mm) wall cavity R3.2-4.3, ceiling batts R2.9-7.4
You must either have some super duper fiberglass or there must be a different way of measuring R value.
Somebody mentioned lining the walls with plywood or drywall, I love plywood, although more expensive than drywall, if you use thick enough plywood you can hang just about anything anywhere
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