Need Advice on Finishing my Wood Stock

[Bc'z]

I see you stop at 320 grit. What happens if you put in some extra time and go on to 500 and then 1000 or maybe even 1500-2000.

Been years since I did anything but I always did this and got a really slick finish. Of course that was a while ago when staining, sanding and then adding numerous single coats if urethane and sanding was the accepted way to finish wood. Lot of elbow grease but immaculate finishes if you put the time in.

320 gives me the finish I need for my processes., keep in mind I don't do oil finishes.

 

[nmkid]

I like about 7-8 hand-rubbed coats of Lin-Speed Oil. Use the gun all winter for coyotes and then touch up again and she's ready to go.

 

[long40shot]

I'm just curious, is Tung Oil worth trying?

 

[joshb]

I'm just curious, is Tung Oil worth trying?

Yes. All of the oils mentioned will work. I like the Arrowood because you can get it to a high gloss. I’d never use a wax.

 

[Tesoro]

Minwax tung oil. cheap, easy and pops. 65% mineral spirits 35% split between the linseed oil and the varnish of their choice.

 

[shortgrass]

I think the first thing I'd do with that stock is to cut that recoil pad off and make a mild steel butt plate template. Sanding with that pad on only invites dragging some of it (the pad) on to and into the wood.

 

[Ccrider]

Minwax tung oil. cheap, easy and pops. 65% mineral spirits 35% split between the linseed oil and the varnish of their choice.

Did not know varnish still existed.

 

[Alexander-M]

Has anyone tried marine spar varnish, high gloss? Such as TotalBoat - 409314 Gleam Marine Spar Varnish? There are other variations from TotalBoat, as well as other brands of similar products.

Thanks!

Alex

 

[Twdmar]

I'm just curious, is Tung Oil worth trying?

Not all tung oil is really tung oil. True straight tung oil would take a long time to apply. Some of the other things called tung oil don't have any real tung oil and are not great.
A wiping varnish with some tung oil or making your own would be a good solution and if you like you could even do a first coat of pure tung oil to get the color.
But I would find something like arrowwood oil, antique oil or the pro custom oil. You can produce and matte or glossy finish with the pro custom and antique oil depending on how you apply them.

 

[Twdmar]

I've also never used any grain filler, I just stripped a stock for a guy where it had been used, my thoughts were it muddled the grain and its appearance.

For walnut, a slurry of rottenstone and oil finish carded into the grain can provide good contrast and make a plain piece of wood look much better.
Applying it before the final sanding grit is reached helps to keep the muddy appearance down.
I would really avoid it, or probably any grain filler, for any other wood without a good bit of trial and error.

 

[Tesoro]

Did not know varnish still existed.

varnish is a general word for any kind of resin or whatever that withstands weather.

 

[D Coots]

Terry Leonard had a fixture he put his stocks in that turned 4 or 5 rpm. He applied the finish to his stocks that way. Forgot what he used for product.

I think Tony Larson dipped his.

 

[majohnson]

Work it down to a 320 grit. You need to blow it off really god between grits or a piece of the previous grit might work it’s way into the finer grit. It will scratch the crap out of things. Make sure to wipe with your favorite thinner, then blow thing off. If you want a nice glossy finish Spar Marine varnish is great. Used it boats I work on. Shellac is a easy finish to use, it also easy to repair scratches, since each coat bonds to the previous. Tung oil and other finishes can be a pain if you need to remove.

Spray a couple of heavier coats so it seals the wood. Then block sand with 600 -800 wet and dry. A bit of dish soap in the water lubes the coat you are sanding on. Then another 3 or 4 coat sprayed with a thinner finish. Don’t worry if you get a run or anything, you can sandc it out. Once you get to that point, carefully sand until everything is flat, no surface imperfections and importantly do no sand through the finish. Then use compounds progressively finer to mirror finish.

Watch you temps and humidity or it will effect your final product. Rockler use to have a class called finishing the finish, if you have one close enough, take it.

 

[CjC73]

so how do i go about shaping the butt to get this shape? the red line is approximate, maybe too much round.

 

[Rook 6]

Pro Custom Gun oil from Brownells is the best stuff I have used. Wipe on and sand with 6 or 800 grit between coats and wipe with tack cloth before next coat. Add a little bone black in the finish to really make the grain pop. Thats going to be beautiful.

I was afraid to reply to this but feel compelled for some reason.
If you are wanting a filled grain with a warm satin glow, Pro Custom Gun oil (which is in a spray can), is the way to go. I've done many stocks with the hand rubbed-full filled grain finish the old-school way and this stuff is amazing. I spray on to fill, sand back, then a couple more coats for final finish.
Here are examples of my rifles that have been finished with it... It holds up very well and is relatively easy to repair if needed. If you want a deep high gloss finish, I'd do whatever @Bc'z recommends.

Just my less than worthless opinon.

Beautiful stock by the way. Good luck!

 

[joshb]

so how do i go about shaping the butt to get this shape? the red line is approximate, maybe too much round.

View attachment 1459302View attachment 1459303

The wood to do that is gone.

 

[CjC73]

The wood to do that is gone.

It shouldn't be. That's the style I ordered

 

[CjC73]

So started on it tonight. Ran the orbital all over it getting most of the big tool marks out.

Ran a piece of sandpaper along the bottom of that rollover area, just getting rid of material. Seems like it's getting to that shape. Will depend on deep I want it. Forgot to tape off the recoil pad (or just remove it) so did y get too close to it with the orbital or the sandpaper.

Any tips on how to get the curve around the cheek piece?

It's not much, but I started.

 

[joshb]

So started on it tonight. Ran the orbital all over it getting most of the big tool marks out.

Ran a piece of sandpaper along the bottom of that rollover area, just getting rid of material. Seems like it's getting to that shape. Will depend on deep I want it. Forgot to tape off the recoil pad (or just remove it) so did y get too close to it with the orbital or the sandpaper.

Any tips on how to get the curve around the cheek piece?

It's not much, but I started.

View attachment 1459407View attachment 1459408

I couldn’t see that from your first pic. That looks good!

 

[Rook 6]

So started on it tonight. Ran the orbital all over it getting most of the big tool marks out.

Ran a piece of sandpaper along the bottom of that rollover area, just getting rid of material. Seems like it's getting to that shape. Will depend on deep I want it. Forgot to tape off the recoil pad (or just remove it) so did y get too close to it with the orbital or the sandpaper.

Any tips on how to get the curve around the cheek piece?

It's not much, but I started.

View attachment 1459407View attachment 1459408

That does look good! I didn’t think you would have enough meat to work with to get the rollover but apparently you do! A wood dowel rod of the appropriate diameter and length will work. Spraying it with 3M tack keep the paper from slipping and allows you to change paper. Take it slow and don’t sand too long in a single spot! But I guess you already knew that.