Induction brass annealer redux

[Dave M.]

Let me pass this on. The original solenoid was a 12 volt DC 1" stroke solenoid. (no longer available) as everyone has found out.
A 24 volt DC solenoid with a 1" stroke can be found (I don't remember where) hooking it up to the 48 VDC ZVS power supply is doable. YES !! you are over diving it.. BUT only for a very short period of time, so it wont over heat, further you could reduce the current through it by putting a resister in series with the coil.
Just an idea
Gina

Well done Gina. That’s thinking.

 

[Dave M.]

I used an S-17-85-28Q from this place. I used the SP10 return spring.
I had a hard time finding one that had enough stroke and pull force. The last build I used a lever system with this solenoid because I needed it to drop 50BMG.

Not the best picture-
View attachment 1367552

I think I’m going to order one of those solenoids and give it a shot. If it works good I’ll convert my other 4 builds over to this one. The original one Gina spec’d out worked great until it took a crap on me. I never imagined that component would cause me such fits trying to replace it.
Dave

 

[Scott-ak]

I think I’m going to order one of those solenoids and give it a shot. If it works good I’ll convert my other 4 builds over to this one. The original one Gina spec’d out worked great until it took a crap on me. I never imagined that component would cause me such fits trying to replace it.
Dave

yeah finding a solenoid was a pita. I ended up with a cheap chinese model from amazon. It has just enough stroke after tinkering.

 

[ST42]

Hi guys,
I received an AMP as a B-Day present. My wife is AWESOME!!!!
So…. I have a MGNZ auto feed annealer that is available to anyone in the Tacoma WA area. It needs a smaller coil but is fully functional and will include a back-up SSR. I know this isn’t the classifieds, if this is an inappropriate posting for this thread, I’ll happily delete it. Maybe we can make a trade for loading components or ?

 

[Scott-ak]

Hi guys,
I received an AMP as a B-Day present. My wife is AWESOME!!!!
So…. I have a MGNZ auto feed annealer that is available to anyone in the Tacoma WA area. It needs a smaller coil but is fully functional and will include a back-up SSR. I know this isn’t the classifieds, if this is an inappropriate posting for this thread, I’ll happily delete it. Maybe we can make a trade for loading components or ?

nice looking build. Care to share some detail about your height adjustment design?

 

[Brucey Boy]

yeah finding a solenoid was a pita. I ended up with a cheap chinese model from amazon. It has just enough stroke after tinkering.

Give this one a try. DC12V Linear Motion Push Pull Tubular Solenoid Electromagnet 200g /10mm #2 I built a paddle trapdoor to increase the the throw. By moving the pivot point you can increase or decrease the amount of swing on the trapdoor. Make sure that it has a thread and a nut on it so you can attach the trapdoor to it. See photo below.

 

[WildBill3/75]

Back state side,
And so it begins....

 

[Gina1]

Nice supply off parts.

Just a little bit of first hand advice. After 6 years my ZVS pc board went belly up. I ordered a replacement through Amazon. (I always had good luck with them). What I got was so badly packed (like a B-B in a box car) that all the screws had worked loose from the connector posts and were actually in the cardboard shipping box.
Anyway, gave the ZVC pc the eye ball inspection, looked ok and installed it in my annealer. Powered it on.
NOTHING !! 48 volt supply as reading 0 volts. Huh..... Disconnected power to the pc board and 48 volts came back.. Measured the resistance across across the power input terminals of the ZVS pc board and it read "zero" ohm's... dead short. That' what was knocking my 4 8 volt power supply down. Normal resistance should be about 5,000 ohms (5K). Amazon is sending a replacement,
Seems I remember a few years ago, a number of builders were getting defective ZVS boards, could be happening again. So you may want to ohm out the input power terminals before hooking up.
Gina1

 

[Greg_t]

I got my MGNZ system up and running. It was not without difficulty. The first ZVS board was bad and then I couldn't get the system to operate using the drop servo. I had two and both would cause the MGNZ board to reboot when it actuated. Sometimes after one case and sometimes after 3 or 4. I switched to a solenoid and it runs fine.
I currently have a 1/8" - 7 wrap coil, about .75" ID. IMO it's too tall. The case mouth gets hot much faster than the shoulder. My first attempt at a double wrap didn't work and will try again when more tubing arrives. Personally I think tuning the coil is the hardest part of the system. I'd like to try 1/4" tubing but it's a pain to wrap.
Mark has been great at providing technical support

I know this is a bit of a slow reply but I've tried a lot of different coil designs and think I have it pretty right now. Mine is 1/8" tubing, 7 1/2 coils with the inner having 3/4" diameter and the outer wrapped around that. I dropped the voltage to 39v and it's running really well. I don't have the amp gauge connected currently but it will do a couple of hundred cases with no issue so it's not overloaded. 2.3 seconds for a 223 case is quick enough for me.

 

[Gina1]

WOW... that is a thing of beauty Nice build !

 

[Gina1]

This is my time to ask for help.
So far I have gotten (2) ZVS PC boards through Amazon #1 was DOA and returned.
#2, the replacement lasted all of about 30 seconds.(one of the FETS shorted out ) (coil not shorted)
Amazon is not be sending out # 3 and will be giving me a full refund.
The help I'm asking for is where do you guys get your reliable ZVS boards ??
Much thanks for any assistance
Gina

 

[WildBill3/75]

This is my time to ask for help.
So far I have gotten (2) ZVS PC boards through Amazon #1 was DOA and returned.
#2, the replacement lasted all of about 30 seconds.(one of the FETS shorted out ) (coil not shorted)
Amazon is not be sending out # 3 and will be giving me a full refund.
The help I'm asking for is where do you guys get your reliable ZVS boards ??
Much thanks for any assistance
Gina

Just about everything these days is made in China.

Option 1. Amazon. These boards come from China.
Option 2. You can buy the exact same items that Amazon sells off Aliexpress, cheaper, but wait longer to get it as it comes direct from China. (generally 2-3 weeks)
Option 3. You can buy chinese components off Aliexpress or Amazon and solder your own board together.

I've been so busy lately with work and 3d printing parts that I haven't even had time to check my board for function, just a look over and it appears solid and well assembled.

 

[itchyTF]

Why not replace the fets? I suspect they are the most susceptible to failure. I would guess the coils & caps are ok but if you have a way to check them, do it.

 

[Gina1]

Why not replace the fets? I suspect they are the most susceptible to failure. I would guess the coils & caps are ok but if you have a way to check them, do it.

I was just being lazy and after 6 years "what the heck" ordered a replacement board. Never expected 2 boards in a row to fail.
Am sending # 2 board back for a refund. Will break you the soldering iron and solder sipper and replace the shorted FET.
Do you have a part # for it ? and where are you ordering them from ?

Much thanks for the input
Gina

 

[Frog]

You can try Mouser Electronics
Try here

 

[itchyTF]

According to the link in post 3043, the FETs are IRFP260N. Both Digikey and Mouser have the BF version for $4.42 each.

 

[WildBill3/75]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832798956325.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6aa73d07c62uzd&algo_pvid=57093063-71eb-4e10-92e8-cd0125e26e2b&algo_exp_id=57093063-71eb-4e10-92e8-cd0125e26e2b-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B"sku_id"%3A"66860440989"%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%212.52%212.52%21%21%21%21%21%402101d8b516647427616141415e9aec%2166860440989%21sea&curPageLogUid=fbEaq3JOl1Ef

$3.50/ shipped 5 pack

 

[Scott-ak]

the fets are easy to test. You need a resister and a diode. IIRC you solder them in series to the drain and to ground. If the led lights then the fet is working.
IMO the caps are more likely to fail but it's just an opinion, I am no expert

 

[WildBill3/75]

Slowly moving forward.... Lots of test fitting and designing/modifying parts.

 

[WildBill3/75]

Vertical motion is in.
ZVS is in.

More test fitting.