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Bore Solvent/ Carbon Removal/ Borescope "proof"

BoydAllen said:
You keep using the word lap. What are you using to carry the abrasive through the bore?
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I use these. Good coating of compound and then add Kroil's oil.

bore mop.jpg

No amount of lapping will actually remove all of the imperfections of a barrel. I am trying to attain a bright shine as opposed to the gray appearance of a factory barrel.

Boyd, if you tell me I am wrong, then I will never lap a barrel again.
 
I think that if it works for you, then keep doing it. I am curious about your average accuracy using this process. The other thing that I would mention is the use of the word lap. Generally we reserve that for a process where something more substantial than felt pellets is used. In the barrel manufacturing business it would be a cast lead lap, cast in the bore of the barrel being lapped. If you had used 600 grit with a lead lap you would have created a finish that was too smooth and that would have caused jacket fouling. The reason that I know this is that my friend went from lapping .22 rimfire barrels to center fire. The 600 grit worked for the lead bullets, but he was having a big problem with jacketed until I told him that he needed to go a lot coarser. This was with a lead lap. I don't want to get into the exact details here because I am not the one who does it, and I don't want to encourage shooters to do this, because it is really tricky to get right. He did not get it right on his first barrel, but taught himself how to do it with a lot of persistence and real talent for this sort of thing. It is not something that I would recommend most shooters try.
 
It may not be relevant, bit consider how conventional engine cylinders are typically honed with a pronounced crosshatch pattern, not a mirror finish, to promote the piston rings to "seat" properly. If my analogy is inapt, I welcome someone explaining why. Obviously piston rings are much harder than bullet jackets, and a lubrication barrier is present in the cylinder.
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BoydAllen said:
I think that if it works for you, then keep doing it. I am curious about your average accuracy using this process. The other thing that I would mention is the use of the word lap. Generally we reserve that for a process where something more substantial than felt pellets is used. In the barrel manufacturing business it would be a cast lead lap, cast in the bore of the barrel being lapped. If you had used 600 grit with a lead lap you would have created a finish that was too smooth and that would have caused jacket fouling. The reason that I know this is that my friend went from lapping .22 rimfire barrels to center fire. The 600 grit worked for the lead bullets, but he was having a big problem with jacketed until I told him that he needed to go a lot coarser. This was with a lead lap. I don't want to get into the exact details here because I am not the one who does it, and I don't want to encourage shooters to do this, because it is really tricky to get right. He did not get it right on his first barrel, but taught himself how to do it with a lot of persistence and real talent for this sort of thing. It is not something that I would recommend most shooters try.
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Thanks Boyd for the incite.
 
Nick Caprinolo said:
Cross hatching is done to promote the mating of the rings. Run an engine for an hour and the walls will be smooth as glass. I have rebuilt many engines in my lifetime.
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Me too.... Many laps later and evidence of cross-hatching still present on next rebuild. A glass slick cylinder liner/wall sheds lubricant and is more prone to galling. However, it has no relevance to the current discussion. Back to the regular programming.....
 
rardoin said:
Me too.... Many laps later and evidence of cross-hatching still present on next rebuild. A glass slick cylinder liner/wall sheds lubricant and is more prone to galling. However, it has no relevance to the current discussion. Back to the regular programming.....
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Why does a glass-slick bore foul so severely?
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fatelvis said:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BK7LR36/?tag=accuratescom-20
Is this the stuff that I've heard everyone saying is tops for removing caked on carbon? Just wondering if its the right stuff. Thanks-
Click to expand...


This is the proper link ;):
bjRa6nS.png
 
The old standard, and I still have a few cans, was #1050002. Also this stuff appears to be colored somewhat and the old was clear. And as I recall it was around $6.00 per 16 ounce can.
 
About a year back I decided to clean my 3 Gun shotgun, Beretta 1301. Pulled the barrel and started with my usual shotgun cleaning regimen. I discovered that no matter what I did the carbon buildup just in front of the forcing cone would not budge. I've had a bottle of Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, that I bought on a whim and decided to give it a whirl. Big patches soaked in Slip didn't budge the carbon so I plugged the breach and poured the barrel full up to the gas port. The next morning I poured off the Slip and ran a patch through the barrel which exited black as coal. A few more patches and the barrel was completely shiny.
Wanting to try the same routine on the carbon ring in my RPR 6.5 CM I plugged the chamber with a rubber cork, filled the barrel and let it stand in a corner overnight. Draining the barrel the next morning, I ran several patches through the barrel, they came out dark grey. I put a well used 9mm brush on a cleaning rod, ran it up to the carbon ring, gave it several twists and ran a couple more patches through the barrel. A quick looksee with my Hawkeye confirmed that the carbon ring was completely gone and the rest of the bore was shiny bright. Shazam!!
Cautionary side note... don't use electrical tape to wrap around a muzzle brake if you have one. The Slip 2000 Carbon Killer turns the adhesive to black goo that is a PIA to clean up.

Slip 2000.jpg
 
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PatMiles said:
About a year back I decided to clean my 3 Gun shotgun, Beretta 1301. Pulled the barrel and started with my usual shotgun cleaning regimen. I discovered that no matter what I did the carbon buildup just in front of the forcing cone would not budge. I've had a bottle of Slip 2000, that I bought on a whim and decided to give it a whirl. Big patches soaked in Slip didn't budge the carbon so I plugged the breach and poured the barrel full up to the gas port. The next morning I poured off the Slip and ran a patch through the barrel which exited black as coal. A few more patches and the barrel was completely shiny.
Wanting to try the same routine on the carbon ring in my RPR 6.5 CM I plugged the chamber with a rubber cork, filled the barrel and let it stand in a corner overnight. Draining the barrel the next morning, I ran several patches through the barrel, they came out dark grey. I put a well used 9mm brush on a cleaning rod, ran it up to the carbon ring, gave it several twists and ran a couple more patches through the barrel. A quick looksee with my Hawkeye confirmed that the carbon ring was completely gone and the rest of the bore was shiny bright. Shazam!!
Cautionary side note... don't use electrical tape to wrap around a muzzle brake if you have one. The Slip 2000 turns the adhesive to black goo that is a PIA to clean up.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about Slip 2000 carbon cleaner?
 
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