Greetings from New Zealand. I only found this site a month or so ago and that was via this post. Since then I've learnt much and now sadly realise how little I know about precision reloading. I've searched many sites, forums, you tube, etc to get a better understanding of this hobby yet I still don't fully understand the art of precision case prep. I wish someone would start a step by step thread on the subject...... Just saying....
I've seen Erik mention before that full length resizing is a must and I was one of the many, I guess, who was under the belief that neck sizing was the way to go. I'm not fortunate enough to have a custom rifle or custom dies so my concern is that FL resizing will work the brass too much and/or bump the shoulder back more than 0.002" if the case is run into the die far enough to resize it completey. And from what I've seen it will also reduce the overall case size too much.
I know this thread is all about load development but since FL resizing is strongly recommended by Erik I'd like to get to grips with this so my load development actually works. The last two 223 loads I did for different rifles didn't clearly show any nodes and both had a large extreme spreads. I'm putting this down to poor case prep cause by my ignorance.
So, does FL resizing mean just that or is it resizing the full case slightly with custom dies?
This is from Shootdots recommendations for precision preparation of brass.
I have followed his methods with great success in reduction of runout and improved accuracy. Hope this helps.
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Here is what you do to ANY brass, Lapua or not, to make them shoot properly. If you are not improving the cartridge (i.e. making an Ackley) or completely forming it, like making a BRX or Dasher, you can make virgin brass fire as accurately as fireformed brass.
1.) Expand the necks. If it's a .22 cal or whatever, get a .22 expander mandrel and expand the necks. This will push most, if not all, of the imperfections in the neck to the outside. TRICK: when expanding the case necks, run the case up in the mandrel body die and then back off, spin the case about 1/3rd turn, run back up in the die. Do this 3 or 4 times (it takes an extra 5 seconds) and you will feel the case gong up in the die very smoothly>>>then you know the imperfections have been pushed to the outside.
2.) If it is a "no turn neck", at least skim-turn your necks to about 90 percent "clean-up". This will turn off the imperfections you just pushed to the outside.
3.) Anneal the necks>>>even on virgin brass
4.) Chamfer the inside and outside of the case mouths.
5.) Heat has a way of moving metal. So, run the brass back thru the mandrel to straighten up the necks>> using the spin method once again...
6.) Using a "used / carboned up" neck brush, vigorously brush out the necks.
7.) Prime the case
8.) Using a Q-Tip, swab out the inside of the case neck with Imperial DRY neck lube.
9.) Charge your case with powder,
10.) Seat your bullet.
If you do this to virgin brass, you will not see a difference between the virgin and fireformed brass. DON'T do this with virgin Lapua (or any brass) brass and you are kidding yourself!
Last edited: Mar 20, 2017"