Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
spclark said:... adjust your socket's depth for your preference for case sidewall exposure by wadding up then jamming a ball of aluminum foil into the case body.
Did you mean jam it into the socket body?
spclark said:... adjust your socket's depth for your preference for case sidewall exposure by wadding up then jamming a ball of aluminum foil into the case body.
brians356 said:Did you mean jam it into the socket body?
spclark said:brians356 said:Did you mean jam it into the socket body?
Yep, stuff enough into the socket to support your cases with your preferred amount of case sidewall showing. Short, fat cases like WSSM are what I worked this fix out for; standard sockets were too shallow, deep sockets too deep w/o a foil wad to take up the unneeded space.
Joe R said:Exactly the way I look at it. Nothing against the guys that have made these fantastic automated machines to do this, I just prefer to keep things simple and cheap. Annealing rifle brass ain't rocket science and doesn't have to break the bank. Now on the other hand if one of these fellows that has made one of these fantastic automated machines would like to give me one, I sure wouldn't turn it downmac86951 said:If you have a Harbor Freight near you a cordless drill will set you back $15 and a 10mm deep socket is another $1.50. And after you've done the first 20 you'll wonder why you ever worried about such a simple job. The other nice thing about using the drill and socket is that it takes very little room in my garage.
Nomad47 said:I annealed about a dozen WW 284 Winchester brass before necking down to 6.5, then to 6mm. I caved the shoulder in on about half of them. Stopped annealing first.
Nomad47 said:I annealed about a dozen WW 284 Winchester brass before necking down to 6.5, then to 6mm. I caved the shoulder in on about half of them. Stopped annealing first.
Webster said:I would think it's compressing the neck and pushing down on the shoulder?
CatShooter said:NYM said:Annealing is a science - not hot enough - it doesn't do a thing. To hot and you destroy the case. Annealing is not for a beginner, the worst would be that you destroy your 2 dollars apiece Norma brass and blind yourself. The least is you waste your time and money. Everyone has an opinion but annealing can get to 20-30 re-loads and can increase your scoring based on tender case release or consistent neck tension. I shoot Lapua brass and I'm not wasting any money buying new brass when with care you can be like the Energizer Bunny and keep on going and going - or should I say loading and loading.
"Annealing is a science - not hot enough - it doesn't do a thing. To hot and you destroy the case. Annealing is not for a beginner, the worst would be that you destroy your 2 dollars apiece Norma brass and blind yourself."
Well, I guess everyone should quit annealing then, cuz none of us want to go blind... wait a minute - I remember something about going blind when I was 13, and it never happened.
So this must be BS!!
Annealing is part science and part black magic
I use a $2,500 instrument to test annealing, and annealing is not as critical as some would like you to believe, and is filled with black magic -![]()
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Constant, uniform annealing can be done by hand...
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But color can be deceiving - the cases on the right were annealed at the same time as the ones on the left, at the same temperature, for the same duration, but the ones on the left look like Lapua's annealing, the ones on the right have a silverish colour - the difference is that one group was made ~10 years earlier than the other - both are the same make.
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The distance that colour travels on the case body can be deceiving... the case shown here would be thrown away by most everyone...
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When it was annealed, a strange thing happened. It annealed in the flame normally, and and when dropped on the foil, it looked normal, and it lie there for a few seconds, then the dark "annealing colours" started running up the body to the head, like a fast burning fuse.
But when tested for hardness, the case head hardness had not been changed, and the case was fine to load.
You can see the indentations in the case head of both cases (low and on the right side of the case head - you might have to look hard).
Tested @ 0.0625x100Kg
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CatShooter said:I use a torch and the Hornady annealing adapter (same as a socket).
I tried the templak, and it was a waste of time.
I hold the neck in the TIP if the flame for 4 to 6 seconds (not critical)