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x-caliber barrels

These targets were shot with an ex-caliber barrel. I ordered a 6mm, 7.5 twist stainless steel. The barrel was turned down to a 1" straight except at the breech end and finished at 26". It is attached to a remington 700 action that has been squared up on action and bolt face. It was chambered with a PTG 6BR reamer with .15 freebore. The whole thing was put into a Boyds Tacticool stock that has had the fore-end modified for a 3" flat. I have been working on load developement and had a bit of copper in the first five rounds and none thereafter. These target were shot last weekend with a 10-12 mph 1:00 oclock wind, almost head on. This is not a fancy rig but does show what the barrel can do. I welcome comments, but keep in mind it is a 105.00 barrel.
 

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Personally i dont think cost has anything to do with how a barrel shoots. I have some 350.00 barrel and a green mtn. and i shot a .110 group with my green mtn barrel. Luck or what i don't know, want to believe it was me and barrel etc. Just my 2 cents.
 
I concur with the barrel price vs accuracy comment as I have experienced the same. My rifles accuracy is usually limited by my ability and at my age it gets tougher. However, I have seen pictures of some of the shooters and they wouldn't really pass as spring chickens. My memory is not that great either, the freebore is .104. Probably had some of you really going.

Riesel
 
I agree as well. I have a factory Remington VSSF II 204 Ruger barrel on a trued 700 action that will shoot better than I can. Regularly prints .3" groups at 200 yards and one oblong hole at 100 yards. I paid $150 for the barrel in used condition and it shoots even bit as good as any high dollar Krieger, Brux, or Lilja I've ever owned. Paying more doesn't always mean you get more when it comes to barrels. So if X-Caliber barrels shoot as well as I think they will, they are a heck of a deal.

I found a 100 yard target for my 204 Ruger. Also found a target for my 22lr bench rifle using cheap American Eagle ammo. My 22lr was built in 1940 and still wears the original factory barrel. The thing is ridiculously accurate for a 22lr.

http://rs1074.pbsrc.com/albums/w414/brandoon0181/20150401_144114_zps350db4b7.jpg~320x480?t=1427835436

http://rs1074.pbsrc.com/albums/w414/brandoon0181/20150401_144123_zpsd43819b9.jpg~320x480?t=1427835439
 
Ledd Slinger said:
I agree as well. I have a factory Remington VSSF II 204 Ruger barrel on a trued 700 action that will shoot better than I can. Regularly prints .3" groups at 200 yards and one oblong hole at 100 yards. I paid $150 for the barrel in used condition and it shoots even bit as good as any high dollar Krieger, Brux, or Lilja I've ever owned. Paying more doesn't always mean you get more when it comes to barrels. So if X-Caliber barrels shoot as well as I think they will, they are a heck of a deal.

I found a 100 yard target for my 204 Ruger. Also found a target for my 22lr bench rifle using cheap American Eagle ammo. My 22lr was built in 1940 and still wears the original factory barrel. The thing is ridiculously accurate for a 22lr.

http://rs1074.pbsrc.com/albums/w414/brandoon0181/20150401_144114_zps350db4b7.jpg~320x480?t=1427835436

http://rs1074.pbsrc.com/albums/w414/brandoon0181/20150401_144123_zpsd43819b9.jpg~320x480?t=1427835439


Sir,
I think you are making yourself look bad.
 
butchlambert said:
Sir,
I think you are making yourself look bad.

.....You say the same thing to anyone who posts pics of what they consider "accurate" groups if you don't know them. 3 shot groups dont count right? Whatever...Not surprised at all to hear your predictable negativity. It's just the internet Butch, don't let it bother you. I have a hard time not posting on a lot of things people say as well. Sometimes I'll admit I slip up. But at least I usually explain my opinion or back up my reasoning with personal data or experiences.

And to be honest, I really don't care if someone I've never met on the internet thinks I "look bad". This forum is just a hobby to pass the time. I won't lose one second of sleep. Can't please everyone, nor do I care to even try.
 
You're taking my post the wrong way. A lot of guys on this forum are kind, roll their eyes, and go on. If you really want to make a point with your factory 204, get a target with 5 targets on it. Shoot 5 targets instead of 1 billfold group. I would commend you for it if you did that.
 
OK...barrel is on and have about 30 rounds out it. Tested 6 different loads and 3 different bullets. Only thing that is showing promise is 52 SMK. I've only been working with 8208 and want to try some H4895 yet. Too early to tell if it shoots or not...I was hoping it would do a tad bit better than what I'm seeing so far. Hopefully I can find something decent. Tried the 55 V-Max, 55 berger FB and the 52 smk.

The barrel was supposed to be a 12 twist, but is measuring out to 12.25 with a cleaning rod/patch method. Copper wise, it cleans up very fast with little copper. 3-4 treatments of Patch out w/accelerator and its gone. So good there.
 
ridgeway said:
OK...barrel is on and have about 30 rounds out it. Tested 6 different loads and 3 different bullets. Only thing that is showing promise is 52 SMK. I've only been working with 8208 and want to try some H4895 yet. Too early to tell if it shoots or not...I was hoping it would do a tad bit better than what I'm seeing so far. Hopefully I can find something decent. Tried the 55 V-Max, 55 berger FB and the 52 smk.

The barrel was supposed to be a 12 twist, but is measuring out to 12.25 with a cleaning rod/patch method. Copper wise, it cleans up very fast with little copper. 3-4 treatments of Patch out w/accelerator and its gone. So good there.

good to hear I think im going to buy a 30" 308 barrel from them next week.
 
ridgeway said:
OK...barrel is on and have about 30 rounds out it. Tested 6 different loads and 3 different bullets. Only thing that is showing promise is 52 SMK. I've only been working with 8208 and want to try some H4895 yet. Too early to tell if it shoots or not...I was hoping it would do a tad bit better than what I'm seeing so far. Hopefully I can find something decent. Tried the 55 V-Max, 55 berger FB and the 52 smk.

The barrel was supposed to be a 12 twist, but is measuring out to 12.25 with a cleaning rod/patch method. Copper wise, it cleans up very fast with little copper. 3-4 treatments of Patch out w/accelerator and its gone. So good there.

It's better to change powders or primers during testing before changing bullets. Changing bullets has a lesser effect on changing accuracy. Changing brass gives a lesser effect yet.

Considering testing is being conducted at 100 yards. If it's shooting bad with one bullet, it may shoot a little better with another bullet, but probably not dramatically better. Of course that's not always the case, but in general, that's what I've experienced over the years.

The order of component changing I use when load testing is:

1: Powders
2: Charge weights of the most promising powders
3: Primers
4: Bullets
5: Brass neck tension and bullet seating depth
6: Brass manufacturer

No factual data as to whether my method is the best order of operations or not, it's just how I usually find success faster and more efficiently with minimal use of component supplies.

I've only ever made it to the brass change step once with a Lilja barrel I couldnt get to shoot to my standards where the brass change from Norma to Winchester actually helped take a 3/4" group at 100 yards to sub 1/2". Otherwise, I usually find great accuracy before ever changing bullets
 
Here is a sample of what I'm getting so far. I got 50 cases fire formed....so hopefully I can get something working...

picsay-1429317572.jpg.jpg

picsay-1429238144.jpg.jpg
 
Ridgeway. I like that you posted multiple groups on one piece of target paper. I believe with a little work the groups will tighten up.
 
Messing with seating depth is a "fine tuning" step AFTER you've found an accurate recipe. Helps squeeze that last bit of possible accuracy from a load.

Looks like it will shoot that powder, but you need to try different charge weights way before you go changing bullets and messing with seating depth. Changing charge weight with a potentially accurate powder is the FIRST thing you do. Once you dial ONE bullet in accurately, then you can change bullets to see if it likes something else better if you want.
 
Ledd Slinger said:
Messing with seating depth is a "fine tuning" step AFTER you've found an accurate recipe. Helps squeeze that last bit of possible accuracy from a load.

Looks like it will shoot that powder, but you need to try different charge weights way before you go changing bullets and messing with seating depth. Changing charge weight with a potentially accurate powder is the FIRST thing you do. Once you dial ONE bullet in accurately, then you can change bullets to see if it likes something else better if you want.
Yep...I'm quite aware. I've been running up my charges....I was just mainly concerned about getting the formed brass fireformed and while doing so looking for something that looked somewhat promising. I have several powders that I have on hand to try, so by all means I'm not finished.
 

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