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whats your method for finding the lands?

hey guys just thought id ask whats your method for finding the lands for seating depth? i usually just use a match to blacken the projectile then look for the marks but just thought id see what everyone else does :)
 
I find the lands by standing watches in the crow's nest with a spyglass. ;) [br]
I use the Stoney point tool and measure with a Sinclair bullet comparator.
 
I use a 'zero headspace' case fired in my in gun. I then slit the neck in two places opposite of each other. Insert a bullet slightly, then close the bolt on it. It gives very repeatable measurements with a comparator. If the split neck gets too weak to hold the bullet,,,run it through your die to tighten the neck only,,,,do not push the shoulder back. Works for me.
 
have your smith use the piece he cuts off your barrel blank end then run the same cutter in it you chambered the barrel with then split it half way back you then can see rifling also can turn dummy rd & see where rifling touches bullet also the hornaby guage mentioned above works good also i use both just to be certain regards shooter63
 
been using the stoneypoint for years , it works, also tried sinclair and they are within +/-.002 of each other

works for me.

Bob
 
Boa,
I use two rod stops, a cleaning rod, a rubber band, dummy round seated long with the bullet I want to measure (no primer) and a Sinclair Hex comparator. I use to use another Sinclair comparator but changed to the Hex.

I give TresMon the credit for the repeatable accurate method.

T
 
jcampbellsmith said:
See page 2.

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/catalog/2009/69-70_precision_gauges.pdf

Regards JCS
Yup, that's the tools I use.
Use too use the soot method, but with the OAL Gauge it's a sure bet.
 
Stoney Point (now Hornady) chamber over-all-length gauge. I'd be lost without it. Has given me accurate, repeatable dimensions for many years now. One of my most valuable tools.
 
I now use the Hornady LAL tool-- in the old days a sharpie and a lot of load and check
 
Use a Lee Collett die - resize a fired clean case by screwing down the LC die until it re-sizes the neck just enough to hold the projectile. With the firing pin removed, gently chamber the unprimed dummy round, then open the bolt and place a finger on the round to stop it from being ejected. Remove the round gently. Measure the base to ogive distance with a comparator such as Sinclair or Stoney Point sell, this will give you the measurement to the lands for that specific round. Screw in the die slightly and re-measure until you get the jump (if thats what you want). Use gentle movement to avoid the projectile being slightly jammed when closing the bolt. Zero your caliper with with the comparator in place.
Martin
 
All you need is a cleaning rod with jag removed, a 1/8th" wood dowel, and calipers. Install bolt, push cleaning rod into muzzle until it touches the bolt face. Mark end of muzzle on the rod with piece of masking tape. Then, remove bolt and drop bullet in chamber, place rifle horizontal in cleaning stand. Install wood dowel from breech until it gently touches the bullet base. Move cleaning rod in until it touches the bullet meplat. Place another piece of tape on the cleaning rod and measure between the two pieces with caliper. This will be the point of kissing the lands.

PS - I cut the threaded end off an old bronze brush, filed the end smooth, and install that in cleaning rod in place of a jag. This makes feeling the bullet tip easier.
 
Martin in Aus. said:
Use a Lee Collett die - resize a fired clean case by screwing down the LC die until it re-sizes the neck just enough to hold the projectile. With the firing pin removed, gently chamber the unprimed dummy round, then open the bolt and place a finger on the round to stop it from being ejected. Remove the round gently. Measure the base to ogive distance with a comparator such as Sinclair or Stoney Point sell, this will give you the measurement to the lands for that specific round. Screw in the die slightly and re-measure until you get the jump (if thats what you want). Use gentle movement to avoid the projectile being slightly jammed when closing the bolt. Zero your caliper with with the comparator in place.
Martin

This is what I do and it works . I have the case marked and set aside in the special tools tub . Of coarse the case needs to be fire formed in the rifle it is to be used in . Here is a link to a you tube video with a how to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaA3GECbbVA&feature=relmfu
 
shooter63 said:
have your smith use the piece he cuts off your barrel blank end then run the same cutter in it you chambered the barrel with then split it half way back you then can see rifling also can turn dummy rd & see where rifling touches bullet also the hornaby guage mentioned above works good also i use both just to be certain regards shooter63
I use this method as well and now that this barrel has 1500 rounds through it I wonder how acurate it is.
I may buy another tool to double check it.
 

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