Finding the lands Alex Wheeler method ?

[Chubbs]

Hi Guys
I have been using this method on my rifles and normally there is no resistance when closing the bolt and moving the handle down. However when I try on my Savage Model 12 action I am encountering resistance when moving the handle down. Every thing is removed from the bolt except handle and bolt head.
Could this be down to the fact the bolt head is spring loaded.
I do not wish to remove the spring as the bolt head pin becomes loose and there are couple of holes it may catch in/on when working the bolt.
When adjusting the seating depth the resistance can be felt but I doubt I can tell the difference when it gets close to being a thou or 2 in or out of the lands.
Should I look to another method ?

 

[6.5grendel]

Are you talking about the wave washer behind the bolt head?

If you want to take that washer out, you can, and to prevent the pin from falling out you can slide the firing pin back though the bolt after taking the cocking pieces off the firing pin. But my savage bolts will still fall free without removing the wave washer. Did you remove the rear baffle that is in front of the bolt handle? It will prevent the bolt from free falling.

 

[Chubbs]

Thanks for reply. Yes it's the wave washer. All internals from the bolt have been removed.

 

[Richard Jones]

So this is what I do:
Gut bolt, remove wave washer, remove rear baffle.
Install bolt head, front baffle, FP retaining pin and bolt handle.
Cut a piece of coat hanger or similar so that it goes through the FPRP and is held in place by the rear screw.

A little length slop is OK, but if the wire is too small in diameter, the FPRP will tend to drop down and drag in the action.

 

[Chubbs]

Thanks Richard will give that a go tomorrow.

 

[ppaul]

Clean the bolt body with brake cleaner then wrap a piece of cellophane tape around to hold the pin in, quick and easy.

 

[Chubbs]

I went with Richards bit of coat hanger. Worked a treat with washer removed.
Thanks for the replies.

 

[RedfootRanch]

So this is what I do:
Gut bolt, remove wave washer, remove rear baffle.
Install bolt head, front baffle, FP retaining pin and bolt handle.
Cut a piece of coat hanger or similar so that it goes through the FPRP and is held in place by the rear screw.
View attachment 1226239
A little length slop is OK, but if the wire is too small in diameter, the FPRP will tend to drop down and drag in the action.

Great idea! I have DBM so if pin gets out of place it isn't much to correct it. Going forward, your method will be used.

 

[rj5208]

Hi Guys
I have been using this method on my rifles and normally there is no resistance when closing the bolt and moving the handle down. However when I try on my Savage Model 12 action I am encountering resistance when moving the handle down. Every thing is removed from the bolt except handle and bolt head.
Could this be down to the fact the bolt head is spring loaded.
I do not wish to remove the spring as the bolt head pin becomes loose and there are couple of holes it may catch in/on when working the bolt.
When adjusting the seating depth the resistance can be felt but I doubt I can tell the difference when it gets close to being a thou or 2 in or out of the lands.
Should I look to another method ?

Chubbs,
I'm not sure what you are trying to do. If the goal is to measure seating depth there are a couple ways
that do not require bolt disassembly.

I forget the manufacturer, maybe stoney point or sinclair, they make a dummy case with a rod and a set screw to advance the bullet to the point where it touches the lands, the set screw is uded to lock the rod once that point is reached. / keep it at a desired depth.

What you do is take their case place a bullet on top, insert in the chamber push the rod forward till the bullet stops, set the stop set screw, remove and measure. That is the touching COL for that bullet, From there you can back off a couple of thousands if you want a minimal jump distance.

You can easily make this yourself by taking a case, drill out the center of the head, get any brass or aluminum tube / rod whatever and a collar which accepts a set screw.

Another way is to soot, with a candle or match, a few dummy rounds, seating the bullets at different seating depths, chamber same until you see evidence of the bullet touching the lands.

Keep in mind each bullet design will have a different ogive, so any procedure will have to be repeated for a different profile. Also keep in mind when going from say a 223 to a 556, although the outside case dimentions are for all practical purposes, the throat or leede is longer on the 556. Anytime you load without a bullet jump the pressures will increase quite a bit, watch those primers and brass for over pressure.