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What kind of thread tool is this?

This is still my favorite threading tool, flick of the lever and it retracts from the work and misses the shoulder, hit reverse and wind it back to the start. Can't disengage the halfnuts when your lathe is metric.
 

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This is still my favorite threading tool
Looks like an Aloris threading blade? I have a couple of Aloris threading toolholders. I use them for general threading jobs and tend to save the inserted carbide for barrel work. They work well and would probably do fine for barrel work.
 
Looks like an Aloris threading blade? I have a couple of Aloris threading toolholders. I use them for general threading jobs and tend to save the inserted carbide for barrel work. They work well and would probably do fine for barrel work.
It's an ifanger RS threading tool, the cutting blades come pre ground for angle in either 55 or 60 deg and the #2 & 3 holder retract 4mm (0.157") more than enough to miss a shoulder.

Multifix also made retracting threading tool holders for their toolposts
 
I’m not a smith but used to sell cutting tools. I would agree that a full form pitch specific would give you the nicest thread. All the major carbide company’s make them. They have a radius on the tip which gives the edge at the point a little more strength, they will break the corner where the thread flank meets the mayor outside diameter. Threading on a manual lathe your cutting speed would likely be slower than a cnc so I’d look for the tougher grades and a coating to help material buildup on the cutting edge. There are laydown styles that have 3 cutting edges and some have a shim under the insert that tilts the insert into the helix angle of the thread which depends on thread diameter and pitch. Carmex is a pretty good outfit and has good tech support. The guy there was named Alfee at least a couple years ago and if you explain your thread applications he should be able to fix you up. Other companies are Vardex , Sandvik, seco. They sell thru distributors like MsC, grainier and others. I’d find out if there is a local distributer in your area, some of the smaller distributors can have good tech guys also.
Threading is a tough application as the federate is fixed because of the pitch. Depth of cuts per pass and indeed angles can be played with to optimize and spindle speeds of course.

The downside of the full profile inserts is you need a different insert for each pitch you cut. But if you’re doing a lot of threading they’re worth it.
My $.02.
 
Full profile is cheating!:p But I don't blame ya. They work very well. It's hard to go too far and the tops and bottoms will be correct.
Hahaha cheating is the name of the game. I just run them in with the cross slide. No need for the compound with this type of insert.


With a a regular insert, the last couple thou I always run in with the cross slide to get a nice even cut...
 
Hahaha cheating is the name of the game. I just run them in with the cross slide. No need for the compound with this type of insert.


With a a regular insert, the last couple thou I always run in with the cross slide to get a nice even cut...
I love them! They make life easy but not a necessity at all. I'm amazed at how many people believe a thread should be left sharp. I tell those people to buy full profile inserts and life will be good but I use a few myself too. I don't have them for everything but I need to add several and just get over it.
 
I love them! They make life easy but not a necessity at all. I'm amazed at how many people believe a thread should be left sharp. I tell those people to buy full profile inserts and life will be good but I use a few myself too. I don't have them for everything but I need to add several and just get over it.

I've got 16,18,20,32 Those seem to be the common ones I need.
 
If you have part numbers I'd like to know them.

I have good luck with cobalt blades that I sharpen, hone, and put a little relief on the top cutting edge. I can feed it automatically as long as oil/coolant runs over it.

I've wanted a carbide insert/blade to play with.. but they're expensive, many to pick from, and haven't had a great reason to try them.
 
For a carbide cutoff tool, a very rigid setup and machine is a must. Steady feedrate at the proper speed is needed. For the little that I use a cutoff tool, I use a high speed blade most of the time. I have a Kennametal tool if I need it.
 
If you have part numbers I'd like to know them.

I have good luck with cobalt blades that I sharpen, hone, and put a little relief on the top cutting edge. I can feed it automatically as long as oil/coolant runs over it.

I've wanted a carbide insert/blade to play with.. but they're expensive, many to pick from, and haven't had a great reason to try them.
Sorry its not carmex. I thought for sure thats what it was. 36D233FA-3DCF-4396-8B71-F8D49C3987B5.jpeg
 
I use one of these with cheap GTN-3 0.120" width inserts. Held in an Aloris BXA-7 holder.

Shars retrofit parting blade BXA
I use the same (or possibly a similar Chinese clone) and it does very well with just about anything I throw at it except brass. For brass, I use the cheap HSS blades ground and honed sharp and with a slight top rake.

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