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Tune a fish, tune a piano but tune a rifle???

I've built a half dozen "precision" ARs in 5.56, 6.5 Grendel & 6 mm Grendel using various middle of the road barrels. All will produce 1/2 MOA as long as I do my part. 5 critical points: (1) square the face of the upper so that the barrel shoulder seats 100%. (2) shim barrel to upper bore for a snug fit. (3) ensure upper to lower fit is snug (shim as required). (4) a decent 2 stage trigger (mine are all 4.5# with a 2# second stage). (5) take the time to work up a load that the rifle likes only a few factory loads will really perform (Varget & CFE223 are good places to start).
Finally, consistency with the bench setup needs to be repeatable. A firm hold on the pistol grip destroys many a decent group.
 
Glue the barrel in.
I'd rather not glue in the barrel. It may have to come off at some point.
I've built a half dozen "precision" ARs in 5.56, 6.5 Grendel & 6 mm Grendel using various middle of the road barrels. All will produce 1/2 MOA as long as I do my part. 5 critical points: (1) square the face of the upper so that the barrel shoulder seats 100%. (2) shim barrel to upper bore for a snug fit. (3) ensure upper to lower fit is snug (shim as required). (4) a decent 2 stage trigger (mine are all 4.5# with a 2# second stage). (5) take the time to work up a load that the rifle likes only a few factory loads will really perform (Varget & CFE223 are good places to start).
Finally, consistency with the bench setup needs to be repeatable. A firm hold on the pistol grip destroys many a decent group.
Thanks.
Aren't #2 & #3 the same thing? Oh wait, I see, never mind.
While I didn't assemble the uppers, that was done by Stag Arms, Aero Precision and Colt, they all seem to be very snug via an unofficial test performed here at my home.
I haven't gotten to point of doing all that you wrote but I very well may.
I have tried several powders, loads, brass, primers and bullets(CFE223, Accurate 2460, BL-C(2) and H335)
As for the factory ammo goes, Federal Premium 77gr. w/SMK's and IMI Razorcor 77gr. OTM's have been the best but not consistent.
My reloads have been similar.
I think you're right about shooting consistently from the bench. I do very well with my BA's but perhaps not okay with my AR. I'm going to put some techniques that others have provided to the test tomorrow.
We'll see if it's the gun or the moron behind it!
 
You glue them in with red loctite. A heat gun will let you pull them right out.

It is one of the only proven ways to stabilize the barrel joint on an AR, and the ONLY way for the "average Joe" to do it.

If you want an AR to be under 1/2 Minute, and STAY there, then you do what is required to stabilize that joint.
 
You glue them in with red loctite. A heat gun will let you pull them right out.

It is one of the only proven ways to stabilize the barrel joint on an AR, and the ONLY way for the "average Joe" to do it.

If you want an AR to be under 1/2 Minute, and STAY there, then you do what is required to stabilize that joint.
Hmm...okay, I'll put it on the list of things I might do.
I've seen YT videos showing several ways to fix this issue. Some seem rather easy and others seem rather difficult. I have yet to find a video that showed what you describe but that's not to say it isn't plausible.
I do have a question though. If I use red to lock the barrel in and I'm quite familiar with loctite in it's various forms, and I can use a heat gun to loosen it, won't the heat from firing the rifle also do the same thing as a heat gun? Loosen the loctite, thus loosening the barrel back up again?
 
Hmm...okay, I'll put it on the list of things I might do.
I've seen YT videos showing several ways to fix this issue. Some seem rather easy and others seem rather difficult. I have yet to find a video that showed what you describe but that's not to say it isn't plausible.
I do have a question though. If I use red to lock the barrel in and I'm quite familiar with loctite in it's various forms, and I can use a heat gun to loosen it, won't the heat from firing the rifle also do the same thing as a heat gun? Loosen the loctite, thus loosening the barrel back up again?

Not much heat makes its way to the barrel extension where it interfaces with the inside of the receiver. Certainly not enough to affect the thermoset in red Loctite. You need to get it up to 500 degrees F. Anodizing will discolor around 700 degrees F, so be careful.
 
BA barrels are not ideal. They might last a long time, but they are not built for accuracy or precision.


Some of the things I do...

* Use a White Oak Precision barrel
* Lap the upper receiver
* Bed barrel with Loctite 620 (green, high temp retaining compound)
* Clamp on gas block that's tuned for your ammo.
* Sometimes I bed the upper and lower. I prefer not to. Depends how well the other stuff worked.


The best thing you can do is lap the upper and bed the barrel in. It's worth a quarter minute improvement... minimum. I've seen some uppers that were surprisingly bad.
 

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BA barrels are not ideal. They might last a long time, but they are not built for accuracy or precision.


Some of the things I do...

* Use a White Oak Precision barrel
* Lap the upper receiver
* Bed barrel with Loctite 620 (green, high temp retaining compound)
* Clamp on gas block that's tuned for your ammo.
* Sometimes I bed the upper and lower. I prefer not to. Depends how well the other stuff worked.


The best thing you can do is lap the upper and bed the barrel in. It's worth a quarter minute improvement... minimum. I've seen some uppers that were surprisingly bad.
You are the first that I've encountered that has said anything negative about Ballistic Advantage barrels!
Every source and every person I've met that has a Stag Arms rifle raves about them.
Go figure?
 
This right here is what works.
Perhaps but I'm not planning on spending anymore money or at least not anymore than I have to.
A fellow Stag 15 owner shoots his just fine. It's either me or I got a semi lemon.
I'll just have to either fix it myself or pay some to fix it for me.
 
Different purposes. If I want a battle rifle, I have no problems with BA. They are good battle rifle barrels.

They aren't going to win any matches shooting at targets with rings and scores on them.
Again, you are the first and only person I've met (sorta) that says such things about BA's.
My oh my!! Who to believe!!
 
Different purposes. If I want a battle rifle, I have no problems with BA. They are good battle rifle barrels.

They aren't going to win any matches shooting at targets with rings and scores on them.
Umm...since we don't live in Chicago or the Ukraine, I don't think I need to worry about using my AR in a battle zone!!
 
No disrespect...

If you go over to ar15.com I'm sure you'll find 1000 guys who are shooting battle rifles and say they're great barrels. They are great for that. I'm sure some of them shoot tiny groups. I'd bet the bulk of them shoot 1-2 MOA as a low cost AR15 barrel would be expected to do.

But you're here, asking how to make an accurate rifle. No one is going to recommend a BA barrel for an accurate build.

I'd be happy lap, bed, and inspect the upper for you.
 
No disrespect...

If you go over to ar15.com I'm sure you'll find 1000 guys who are shooting battle rifles and say they're great barrels. They are great for that. I'm sure some of them shoot tiny groups. I'd bet the bulk of them shoot 1-2 MOA as a low cost AR15 barrel would be expected to do.

But you're here, asking how to make an accurate rifle. No one is going to recommend a BA barrel for an accurate build.

I'd be happy lap, bed, and inspect the upper for you.
Thanks for the offer but I have a guy nearby that builds AR's for folks around the world, He's more than capable of doing any enhancements/upgrades I may need/want.
If the few folks I know that have Stag15's shoot good groups with theirs then what?
And no, they didn't do anything to them, shot them right out of the box and have MOA/sub MOA groups consistently.
It's either me or the rifle. Most likely me. Or both.
 

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