straight on the outside... tapered on the inside. Think like a reverse ER collet
I invested in the True Bore because my lathe’s primary use is not chambering barrels. It’s headstock is long and does not allow the use of more common practices like inboard/outboard spiders.
I thought the system had nice features, the primary being the ability to hold a barrel or action without inducing stresses by way of a 6 jaw chuck. I’ve used mine now for almost 10 years without any issues.
When I first started off I overcame holding the barrel taper by the same ways already mentioned, bushings. After making a hand full of those I decided I wasn’t gonna continue down that path so I made jaws that swivel to match any taper. I combined that with a tennon extension so I can support the outboard end.
Minus the weight of the system I am still very happy I invested in it.
View attachment 1462802
I sincerely hope it works out for you. I'll be following with interest. I freely admit I'm skeptical and I don't do enough work to justify such a cost but I do like to see new things and ideas.I just got a call from Nate.
All fixed now. I know exactly what I need now. I'm going to buy one.
That’s a neat setup!I invested in the True Bore because my lathe’s primary use is not chambering barrels. It’s headstock is long and does not allow the use of more common practices like inboard/outboard spiders.
I thought the system had nice features, the primary being the ability to hold a barrel or action without inducing stresses by way of a 6 jaw chuck. I’ve used mine now for almost 10 years without any issues.
When I first started off I overcame holding the barrel taper by the same ways already mentioned, bushings. After making a hand full of those I decided I wasn’t gonna continue down that path so I made jaws that swivel to match any taper. I combined that with a tennon extension so I can support the outboard end.
Minus the weight of the system I am still very happy I invested in it.
View attachment 1462802
There would be lots of way to cut the taper inside. What would be the easiest way?
Like CigarCop does. Take a few measurements off the barrel, enter them into the TL1 and hit the start button. Zip zip, tapered bushing. But then again CNC’s don’t save any time over a conventional lathe for barrel work or so some sayWhat would be the easiest way?
Ziiiiing!!!!!Like CigarCop does. Take a few measurements off the barrel, enter them into the TL1 and hit the start button. Zip zip, tapered bushing. But then again CNC’s don’t save any time over a conventional lathe for barrel work or so some say![]()
Like CigarCop does. Take a few measurements off the barrel, enter them into the TL1 and hit the start button. Zip zip, tapered bushing. But then again CNC’s don’t save any time over a conventional lathe for barrel work or so some say![]()
With your compound
Late to this conversation... and maybe it's already been stated, but SSG makes a lightened skeletonized version of the TBA also (for smaller, lighter lathes).
Was at SSG about a month ago and took this picture (attached) of the lighter versions being made (zoom in the picture to both the pallet and the wheeled cart).
View attachment 1462855
Not sure how a trial run with a True Bore system has anything to do with a CNC lathe. The last thing I want is an out of balance barrel doing 2,000 RPM'sNate just told me to 3d print them.... that is what he does (he said). That saves me about $50k.
Zing... (whatever that is supposed to mean).
I suppose you could buy a Ferrari to drive to the grocery store. Then you get to drag race that kid from the stop light. People do it. Probably still get to the store at about the same time....
PS: One of the reasons I wanted to get the True Bore is because then I could see if I wanted to get a CNC to do barrels.
Not sure how a trial run with a True Bore system has anything to do with a CNC lathe. The last thing I want is an out of balance barrel doing 2,000 RPM's
Didn’t you very recently tell everyone that you saw no use for a CNC (or something to that effect) for barrel work? You stated something like it wouldn’t save you any time at all. Yes???? So you think this chuck will magically greatly improve your setup time and therefore make a CNC viable for barrel work?I am genuinely confused at this point at these comments.
Didn’t you very recently tell everyone that you saw no use for a CNC (or something to that effect) for barrel work? You stated something like it wouldn’t save you any time at all. Yes???? So you think this chuck will magically greatly improve your setup time and therefore make a CNC viable for barrel work?
I’ve bought three of them….there is an option to add it to your cart on the website and then specify in the notes which backplate you need.I think the thing is an obvious incredibly good invention. I can't understand how anyone would poo poo it. The two spiders on either side of the headstock is just clunky in general. It induces stresses it is not well thought out. It really does surprise me that there aren't multiple versions of something like this so that the barrel is held in the chuck and the chuck is floating so it can be indicated in instead of using two separate chucks and having the barrel suspended between them which makes absolutely no sense whatsoever.
I think it's a great invention I would like to buy one. If anyone knows how I can buy one please let me know.
If the guy doesn't want to make them anymore he should let me know I'll have it made and sell them myself. It appears to me that invention has a lot more uses than simply dialing in rifle barrels.
And it's pretty obvious the only way to get a large CNC machine to work for barrel operations would be to have some type of invention like this. As we found out in the other thread when everybody said to use a CNC no one could really answer the question on how you would dial one in on a CNC.
Apparently, many of them are using some kind of device on the other end of the headstock to dampen any vibrations