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True Bore Alignment System

When the negatives outweigh the benefits, yes.

But if it offends, I will substitute impractical.

Heck man, I'm not offended. If you think the invention of a chuck that can be dialed in both radially and angularly is "asinine", go ahead.

To me, the invention of a dialable chuck seems so obvious (in retrospect) I can't believe that there are not half a dozen versions of the thing on the market.
 
Think through your process before you drop 1000+ bucks on something. It's a beautiful product, but I don't think it would save me any time because of the extra work you need to clamp up on the muzzle end.

I only saw one in person once, but it does seem like a version 2 could be made that's smaller/lighter so there isn't so much weight so far inboard.
 
Think through your process before you drop 1000+ bucks on something. It's a beautiful product, but I don't think it would save me any time because of the extra work you need to clamp up on the muzzle end.

I only saw one in person once, but it does seem like a version 2 could be made that's smaller/lighter so there isn't so much weight so far inboard.
I wouldn't use one but the heavier the better. Until I had to change it out.
 
I wouldn't use one but the heavier the better. Until I had to change it out.
Agreed. If it's not too heavy for the lathe it's on. Changing it out would be my "problem" - I already have a shit low back, and use my lathe for all kinds of things... The number of times I'd take that thing off and on... I don't think I'd ever use it.
 
If you had a big lathe, that you normally used for other work, and you wanted to do barrels without buying and tooling a new smaller lathe then the TBAS makes sense.

If you already have the perfect size and tooled lathe for turning barrels using inboard and outboard spiders then what would be the advantage?

If I had a small lathe already set up with inboard and outboard spiders and had money burning a hole in my pocket I'd buy some sort of adjust true
 
Agreed. If it's not too heavy for the lathe it's on. Changing it out would be my "problem" - I already have a shit low back, and use my lathe for all kinds of things... The number of times I'd take that thing off and on... I don't think I'd ever use it.
Thats why mine sits on the shelf most of the time. I have a few lathes, but not enough to dedicate it to. Its not that big of an advantage to me.
 
I think I'm going to buy one of these Truebore alignment systems. I have a Gator six jaw Chuck that I think is the one that goes with it. I don't know about chucks and what fits what.

I'm pretty sure my Standard Modern 1334 and my Acer 1440 take the same chuck size. But I honestly don't know that much about parts and machines.

I've tried to call the company that makes the True Bore and their voicemail is full. I sent an email I'll see if I hear back.

Does anyone know of a dealer that sells this other than the guy that makes them? Or a similar alternative?
 
I think I'm going to buy one of these Truebore alignment systems. I have a Gator six jaw Chuck that I think is the one that goes with it. I don't know about chucks and what fits what.

I'm pretty sure my Standard Modern 1334 and my Acer 1440 take the same chuck size. But I honestly don't know that much about parts and machines.

I've tried to call the company that makes the True Bore and their voicemail is full. I sent an email I'll see if I hear back.

Does anyone know of a dealer that sells this other than the guy that makes them? Or a similar alternative?
How many studs are on the back of your chuck? Your Acer I would think has a D1-4 Spindle which has 3 studs and the spindle through hole is generally a little larger than 1 1/2 inches. A D1-5 has 6 studs and usually has a quite a bit bigger hole through the spindle about 2 inches.

The True bore system is somewhat clumsy and slow to dial in from my experience with it. And you had better had your Wheaties when it comes time to swap it out.
 
I was going to put it on my Standard Modern.

I believe it is a d1-4 also. It appears to have three posts. I found this pic on the web.

View attachment 1462282
Chucks are usually fit to the lathe at the factory, You will find that if you swap chucks you are most likely going to have a lot of runout on them.

If you were to buy a chuck, You would machine the backplate to fit your lathe, That's why most good chucks don't come with backplates, Read your manual on how to lock in a D1-4 or D1-5 chuck, There is a certain procedure so that you get minimum runout just by locking it in place.
 
Chucks are usually fit to the lathe at the factory, You will find that if you swap chucks you are most likely going to have a lot of runout on them.

If you were to buy a chuck, You would machine the backplate to fit your lathe, That's why most good chucks don't come with backplates, Read your manual on how to lock in a D1-4 or D1-5 chuck, There is a certain procedure so that you get minimum runout just by locking it in place.
??
At our Shop, We have multitudes of lathes that use D lock chucks.

6 jaw set true, 3 jaw scroll, 4 jaw independents, We interchange them between lathes with the same spindle nose with no I’ll affects what so ever.

Every one came with its own built in back plate, ready to install.
 
??
At our Shop, We have multitudes of lathes that use D lock chucks.

6 jaw set true, 3 jaw scroll, 4 jaw independents, We interchange them between lathes with the same spindle nose with no I’ll affects what so ever.

Every one came with its own built in back plate, ready to install.
 
Jackie is pointing out a real life machinist perspective. It is in best benefit to check the back plate for a new chuck and if you dont like what the indicator is showing you...cut it if you want. It can certainly be swapped from machine to machine with no adverse affects. May have to adjust a pin or two, but it's not hard to figure out. I got a new 8" Buck for the shop and the backplate did not need cut. Bolted right up and is fine. Just cause the internet say you "have to" doesn't mean it's set in stone haha
 
Jackie is pointing out a real life machinist perspective. It is in best benefit to check the back plate for a new chuck and if you dont like what the indicator is showing you...cut it if you want. It can certainly be swapped from machine to machine with no adverse affects. May have to adjust a pin or two, but it's not hard to figure out. I got a new 8" Buck for the shop and the backplate did not need cut. Bolted right up and is fine. Just cause the internet say you "have to" doesn't mean it's set in stone haha
You're right, It's not set in stone, But they sell semi machined backplates so you are not leaving any precision on the table. I have had D1-4 chucks not pull in all the way because the taper was not exact, You can check the fit with Dykem. The Chucks are fitted at the factory to the lathe they came with, I prefer to leave those chucks with the machine they came with, That is all I was saying.

And I have the utmost respect for Jackie.
 
To me this comes down to a couple of things, the difference in how long it takes to dial in a barrel, and the question of how you crown and if the Truebore adapts to that. If you dial in your crown like you do for a chamber, how would you deal with the taper?
 

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