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This is NOT a clean or don't clean brass thread.

When annealing how important is having the inside of the necks consistently clean? Sometime when I dry tumble I see a bit of orange flame escape the neck when annealing. I assume that is a bit of walnut or carbon burning off because I never see it happen when I have wet cleaned. For those who use a AMP annealer where you expect a "perfect" anneal the residues inside the neck may not be your friend. Just speculating, I like to tumble or wet clean cases to get the lube off after sizing and before annealing
 
When annealing how important is having the inside of the necks consistently clean? Sometime when I dry tumble I see a bit of orange flame escape the neck when annealing. I assume that is a bit of walnut or carbon burning off because I never see it happen when I have wet cleaned. For those who use a AMP annealer where you expect a "perfect" anneal the residues inside the neck may not be your friend. Just speculating, I like to tumble or wet clean cases to get the lube off after sizing and before annealing

i don't think there is any rational reason to clean the inside of brass necks before annealing.
 
I haven't intentionally cleaned the inside of a neck by brushing in ten years or more. Clean necks are too erratic for me unless using moly or HBN bullets.
Even then, I don't clean the necks. I do tumble for about 1/2 hour with walnut media and it removes the soot but leaves a nice layer of carbon.
 
Wife keeps her fingernail polish remover on my reloading bench. It's acetone and I use it for wiping off the case after sizing,amongst other uses.She buys it at the grocery store whenever it gets low.We have a full-on paint dept as part of our facility, so got chemicals out the wazoo. Just like having them seperated,shop stuff stays there.
 
i use the ballistol that i wiped the exterior of the cases with for case lube for my bench guns. use custom dies that size very little. after sizing i wipe the lube off with a paper towel. gives me plenty of time to examine each case carefully before priming.

all the others i use imperial sizing wax and throw them in the tumbler after sizing.
 
One more question for those who dry tumble or wipe the cases. Do you clean, brush or uniform the primmer cups before seating primers. Does the residue affect primer seating depths or the velocity consistency ?

BTW great thread and a educational one for me
 
One more question for those who dry tumble or wipe the cases. Do you clean, brush or uniform the primmer cups before seating primers. Does the residue affect primer seating depths or the velocity consistency ?

BTW great thread and a educational one for me

i use a crockagator to clean primer pockets, a wilson depriming rod to clear flash holes,.a light chamfer and debur with a hand deburring tool and a nylon brush to lightly clean the inside of the necks prior to prime and charge
 
I shoot a string and wipe the outside of the neck with a clean dry cloth and it removes most of the carbon before it hardens and then reload again.
 
Thanks for the great information.

I appreciate the on topic responses.

I have gotten carbon build up inside of 308 cases after 8-10 firings using VV N-150 powder. I only found out accidentally by checking for web separation inside the cases with an RCBS tool. It's just a small 3"-4" rod with a 1/4" bend on the end that has been sharpened on the tip. It just fits inside the neck and you drag the pointed end against the web area for a feel of case (crack)separation. When doing this method I noticed flakes of carbon coming out when the pointed tip was lightly dragged inside the case.
 

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