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Ok so we don't clean brass what about Die wear?

BoydAllen
I wish I was part of that group . Never liked the buildup inside the case , whether it made a difference or not . I like the cases to start out looking like new , you right it may only be for looks . I do feel adding the dry graphite lube to the bullet my groups are more consistent. Maybe even tighter if my eyes were better , one of my excuses .
 
I use a wet tumbler with SS Pins , brass comes out like new . Dies stay clean work smooth . Carbon does add a lube action inside of the necks stops bonding between case and bullet , with wet tumbling spotless cases I add a dry lube to the bullet when seating . Clean is better all around for dies and accurate reloads .
Perhaps we need a new BR division: "Jewelry Class" with a gleam coefficient multiplier.
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BoydAllen
I wish I was part of that group . Never liked the buildup inside the case , whether it made a difference or not . I like the cases to start out looking like new , you right it may only be for looks . I do feel adding the dry graphite lube to the bullet my groups are more consistent. Maybe even tighter if my eyes were better , one of my excuses .
It's well known that muscle fatigue causes twitching and fluttering. If I were you, I'd never shoot in earnest soon after sanitizing those cases. ;-)
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I'm not a competition shooter , benchrest only . I used dry media corn & walnut for 25+ years , switched to wet tumbling with SS Pins after seeing how clean the cases came out . My groups were good before , we all try different things to see what works best . For me l found clean cases using dry lube when seating my groups are grouping consistent. I gave away my dry tumbler an media or I might have tried the dry lube after dry media tumbling , may work just as good . It could be just using dry lube on the bullets when seating will get better results . Only trying something new an sharing the results is what this forum is all about . I'm not trying to give wrong information , I'm just saying this worked well for me . No harm in trying , it may work or it may not for you . Am I the only one here that wet tumbler with good results .
 
Sorry if I was too negative. I was out of line, not with my information, but the way that I presented it was more high handed than necessary. Thank you for sharing and for staying so level headed. I hope that you will continue to post.
Boyd
 
BoydAllen
You weren't out of line , I like this forum , sharing ideas is a good thing . That's why we're here . Until the next time , Be Well.

Chris
 
I SS tumble all of my match brass. I want my brass clean, inside and outside, for the main reason of case inspection. Being an old aircraft tech, I still remember my old instructor telling me "you can't properly inspect dirty metal".

When loading, I apply graphite to the inside of the neck of the case, as well as the portion of the projectile, that contacts the neck (I'm shooting 800gr Brass Boreriders).
 
MN50Shooter
Im shooting 308 , last time I fired a m2 was 50 years ago . 50 is hard core also up there in price , you prep your brass no different then the the smaller cases . What tumbler are you using. I have a small Harbor Freight for no more the 50 cases an the Tumblers B tumbler for larger quantities..l also use the Imperial dry lube with the beads. Where do you get your graphite from. . What distance are you shooting , have you found the way you cleaning your brass wet with graphite seating any different then dry without graphite seating your bullets . When shooting your bad boy every shot better be good or a second job is in order. Thanks for replying .

Chris
 
This has nothing to do with this thread, but since it was asked about the steel wool crumbling and causing a problem, the answer is 'maybe'.Special attention should be made to tap the case necks on the bench to remove the steel wool fuzz," IF "you are using a first generation AMP annealer. That fuzz can build up and melt the lower part of the unit. Use a mechanics magnetic wand to pull out any that may be in your unit.
 
stifffingers
I do wipe the shoulder an outside of the case necks after each shot before putting the case back in the box , after tumbling , sizing & trimming I also put some 4 O wool around a pencil tip an smooth the inside with a few turns . I run a cleaning mop to remove any dust . I will try the magnet , thanks . I guess I'm one of those clean freaks . Not cleaning cases before sizing because the carbon left on the case helps in the sizing ? You still have to lube the case , to me that sounds pretty messy , lube an carbon . I do add dry lube ( graphite ) to the base of the bullet when seating . And I also treat my rifle the same way . Good cleaning after every range trip 30 rounds . My barrel isn't worn out from cleaning .
fff thanks for the magnet suggestion .

Chris
 
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I have quite a collection of small, powerful neodymium magnets. I think I'll make a simple bench fixture for one, and do my steel wool on neck twirling over it. Then one could tap the case mouth on it to catch any bits adhering to the brass. FWIW the fancy stainless steel wool (yes, they make it) wouldn't be attracted to a magnet. (Guitar technicians like it because it doesn't get sucked onto pickup pole magnets. Others like it because it doesn't dissolve in humid environments.)
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I spray my PPC and 6.5x47 cases with RCBS spray lube and when they come out of size die wipe them off with a dry paper towel and it cleans all the carbon off the necks and looks pretty good,,,not shiny just clean,,but leaves the inside of the neck with that black coating that I like to have,,
 
MN50Shooter
Im shooting 308 , last time I fired a m2 was 50 years ago . 50 is hard core also up there in price , you prep your brass no different then the the smaller cases . What tumbler are you using. I have a small Harbor Freight for no more the 50 cases an the Tumblers B tumbler for larger quantities..l also use the Imperial dry lube with the beads. Where do you get your graphite from. . What distance are you shooting , have you found the way you cleaning your brass wet with graphite seating any different then dry without graphite seating your bullets . When shooting your bad boy every shot better be good or a second job is in order. Thanks for replying .

Chris

Chris, sorry for the delayed reply. I'm trying to recover from my week at the NRA Whittington Center and our FCSA World Championship. The altitude always gets to me, after a couple of days. I'll try to answer your questions, in order

Tumbler: Thumler's Tumbler Model B (I put a max of 35 ea 50 BMG cases per load).

Graphite: I too use the Imperial Dry Lube. I bought my graphite powder to refill Imperial jar with the little balls, on eBay (quite cheap and goes a long way)

I shoot in the FCSA 1000 yd Competition. I shot my best 5 shot group (Ever) this year. A 2.438" (2-7/16) group.

Graphite and Bullet Seating: I have found that using the graphite gives a more consistent feel (I have no way to measure) in force required to seat bullet.
 

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Chris, sorry for the delayed reply. I'm trying to recover from my week at the NRA Whittington Center and our FCSA World Championship. The altitude always gets to me, after a couple of days. I'll try to answer your questions, in order

Tumbler: Thumler's Tumbler Model B (I put a max of 35 ea 50 BMG cases per load).

Graphite: I too use the Imperial Dry Lube. I bought my graphite powder to refill Imperial jar with the little balls, on eBay (quite cheap and goes a long way)

I shoot in the FCSA 1000 yd Competition. I shot my best 5 shot group (Ever) this year. A 2.438" (2-7/16) group.

Graphite and Bullet Seating: I have found that using the graphite gives a more consistent feel (I have no way to measure) in force required to seat bullet.
Holee Krapp, Quarter Minute with a 50BMG....... please describe your platform if you would? I'm building a couple 50's....
 

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