Slip 2000 Carbon Killer or M Pro 7 for carbon
- Thread starter dreever
- Start date
Danny,
I have tried both and was not overly impresses with either product.
Gave a quart bottle of Slip2000, to Larry R, he thinks it is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
My PD guide provides MoPro7 for us to clean our guns at night..I am neutral again,
I guess that I have not been a heck of a lot of help.
I still have some Mopro7 and Slip2000,I think) If you want it PM me and it's yours.
Chuck
I have tried both and was not overly impresses with either product.
Gave a quart bottle of Slip2000, to Larry R, he thinks it is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
My PD guide provides MoPro7 for us to clean our guns at night..I am neutral again,
I guess that I have not been a heck of a lot of help.
I still have some Mopro7 and Slip2000,I think) If you want it PM me and it's yours.
Chuck
Chuck,
I was just talking to a friend at the range yesterday and he was raving about the way the carbon killer cleaned up his barrels, so you know me, I searched all the threads and figured I'd give it a try. Always searching for a better mouse trap.
I'm still using the Pro Shot, but have gone from no brushing, to brushing with a nylon brush, to minimal brushing with a bronze brush.,one pass for each ten shots fired). I'm still unscrewing the brush at the muzzle just to protect my crown a bit more
.
I have found that if I clean without a brush till I get white patches,which does take some time)then once I'm satisfied that it's clean if I just then make one pass with a nylon brush I'll get a black patch once again. If I repeat the above till I get white patches again then run one pass with a bronze brush again I'll get a dirty patch. So this tells me no brushing won't cut it, nylon is better, but still not the answer, and bronze is better yet,but still maybe not the answer. So I thought I'd try the carbon cutter, or the M Pro 7 to see if that gets even more black out. Copper is never an issue with my 6BR Kreigers, but carbon is.
That's why I thought I'd post here just to pick some others brains for ideas.
Danny
I was just talking to a friend at the range yesterday and he was raving about the way the carbon killer cleaned up his barrels, so you know me, I searched all the threads and figured I'd give it a try. Always searching for a better mouse trap.
I'm still using the Pro Shot, but have gone from no brushing, to brushing with a nylon brush, to minimal brushing with a bronze brush.,one pass for each ten shots fired). I'm still unscrewing the brush at the muzzle just to protect my crown a bit more
.
I have found that if I clean without a brush till I get white patches,which does take some time)then once I'm satisfied that it's clean if I just then make one pass with a nylon brush I'll get a black patch once again. If I repeat the above till I get white patches again then run one pass with a bronze brush again I'll get a dirty patch. So this tells me no brushing won't cut it, nylon is better, but still not the answer, and bronze is better yet,but still maybe not the answer. So I thought I'd try the carbon cutter, or the M Pro 7 to see if that gets even more black out. Copper is never an issue with my 6BR Kreigers, but carbon is.
That's why I thought I'd post here just to pick some others brains for ideas.
Danny
I plug the barrel with a little cork and fill and soak it with Carbon Killer. Let it set for about 10 minutes, drain back into the bottle and then run a bronze brush through the pipe a couple of times and then patch. Seems to really take out all of the carbon. I follow with patches of Boretech Eliminator for copper. This works well. However, I am gradually just using Boretech Eliminator because it works so well, is non-toxic and has no smell.
But whenever you ask a cleaning question you're going to get a lot of different answers/opinions and they all may be valid. One thing I have learned is that you just gotta use a brush and the bronze brush seems to work best, just unscrew it at the muzzle and don't bring it back through the bore.
But whenever you ask a cleaning question you're going to get a lot of different answers/opinions and they all may be valid. One thing I have learned is that you just gotta use a brush and the bronze brush seems to work best, just unscrew it at the muzzle and don't bring it back through the bore.
I've used them both and like MPro-7 far better. Among the items I've have to get carbon out of are single action revolver cylinders. MPro-7 works much faster than any of about 15 different products I've tried; without adverse odor, too. Heavy duty nylon brush for the bore and brass brush for the cylinders. I use it exclusively for getting rid of carbon in my 6BR. Then I follow up with Wipe-Out foam and the job is done.
I use M PRO 7 and wipe out and I use a bronze brush until I see no carbon. For the people who claim they don't brush go to your local gunsmith and have him put a bore scope to your gun and I promise you you will start brushing.
NEITHER..... "TM", the best carbon and powder remover ever...it will however take off your epidermis also...be careful......
Danny ,
Have you used the IOSSO nylon brushes or the Montana Extreme . One is blue and one is black but both seem to be the same heavy bristle size . I mean these bristles are tough , makes my old nylon bristle brushes seem fit for brushing my teeth .
After using either one of these nylon brushes I have followed up with a new bronze bristle brush and saw no additional carbon coming out .
Jim B
Have you used the IOSSO nylon brushes or the Montana Extreme . One is blue and one is black but both seem to be the same heavy bristle size . I mean these bristles are tough , makes my old nylon bristle brushes seem fit for brushing my teeth .
After using either one of these nylon brushes I have followed up with a new bronze bristle brush and saw no additional carbon coming out .
Jim B
Getting your your carbon out....
I have used most all of the products that have been mentioned above. I now use what an old BR shooter taught me.
Go to a GM dealership and get some of the old formula Top Engine cleaner The part number 1050002. You might have to go to several dealerships to find it. Can not speak for the new formula,not part number 1050002)they sell. Get a can of Marvil Mystery oil. Make you a mixture of 16 oz Top Engine cleaner and 4 oz of Marvil Mystery oil. Put 4oz in a despencing bottle and save the rest. Put it on a patch and run it in your barrel after having cleaned it with the best stuff you have. Now run a brush in your barrel and run another wet patch with the above solution on it. I'll bet you money it will come out with carbon on it. I use the above listed formula and follow with Montana Extreme for copper. I have a bore scope and this cleans the barrel the best of any thing I have tried. I have customers bring in their rifle for work and tell me their barrels are clean. One recently said he knew his barrel was clean and we bore scoped it. I Showed him deposits of both carbon and copper. I cleaned his rifle with the above solution and not until 44 patches later and three series of brushings did we get a clean patch coming out of his barrel. This was a high dollar hand lapped barrel. He then went to the range and shot .473 ten shot group with this barrel that already had 2800 rounds down the barrel.
Rustystud
I have used most all of the products that have been mentioned above. I now use what an old BR shooter taught me.
Go to a GM dealership and get some of the old formula Top Engine cleaner The part number 1050002. You might have to go to several dealerships to find it. Can not speak for the new formula,not part number 1050002)they sell. Get a can of Marvil Mystery oil. Make you a mixture of 16 oz Top Engine cleaner and 4 oz of Marvil Mystery oil. Put 4oz in a despencing bottle and save the rest. Put it on a patch and run it in your barrel after having cleaned it with the best stuff you have. Now run a brush in your barrel and run another wet patch with the above solution on it. I'll bet you money it will come out with carbon on it. I use the above listed formula and follow with Montana Extreme for copper. I have a bore scope and this cleans the barrel the best of any thing I have tried. I have customers bring in their rifle for work and tell me their barrels are clean. One recently said he knew his barrel was clean and we bore scoped it. I Showed him deposits of both carbon and copper. I cleaned his rifle with the above solution and not until 44 patches later and three series of brushings did we get a clean patch coming out of his barrel. This was a high dollar hand lapped barrel. He then went to the range and shot .473 ten shot group with this barrel that already had 2800 rounds down the barrel.
Rustystud
I also thought I had my barrels clean until my smith looked into them with a bore scope.Several scrubbings with J-B paste on a tight patch removed the carbon.I don't see how this carbon will not accumulate unless you aggressively go after it with something very strong and a brush.Lucky are the ones that never need a brush and keep their accuracy.I also used slip 2000 and it seemed to do very little if anything as far as the carbon removal.
I received the MPRO 7, and the Slip 2000 that Chuck sent me to try. Thanks Chuck!
I tried both in my two clean competition rifles with zero results. All patches before and after brushing came out as white as they went in. This dosen't mean that both chemicals don't work, it just means that my current cleaning regime is taking care of any copper,carbon, and powder fouling. I was completely happy with the results, knowing what I currently use works.
For those interested here's what works for me in my Kreigers.
First three very wet patches of Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV
Let sit for the chemical to work,5 min)
Then a wet bronze brush with the Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV, one stroke through the barrel for every ten rounds fired, removing the brush each time it exits the muzzle.
Then three more wet patches,yes, they are coming out black now)
Followed by at least three dry patches.
If there's any sign of black from the lands and grooves on the patches I repeat the process over again till I get nice white patches.
I then run a patch of Lock Ease down the bore before storage, and that's it.
Danny
I tried both in my two clean competition rifles with zero results. All patches before and after brushing came out as white as they went in. This dosen't mean that both chemicals don't work, it just means that my current cleaning regime is taking care of any copper,carbon, and powder fouling. I was completely happy with the results, knowing what I currently use works.
For those interested here's what works for me in my Kreigers.
First three very wet patches of Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV
Let sit for the chemical to work,5 min)
Then a wet bronze brush with the Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV, one stroke through the barrel for every ten rounds fired, removing the brush each time it exits the muzzle.
Then three more wet patches,yes, they are coming out black now)
Followed by at least three dry patches.
If there's any sign of black from the lands and grooves on the patches I repeat the process over again till I get nice white patches.
I then run a patch of Lock Ease down the bore before storage, and that's it.
Danny
GM Tech for the bulk of the carbon and a little copper, then Boretech Eliminator for the rest of the copper and maybe a little carbon. Wet patch it and let set for 10-20 min. then 10 bronze brush strokes - process I use for both. I tried to use nylon brushes, but they just don't cut thru the layers. Much better results with the bronze. I don't try to baby it too much, my time is worth something and I don't mind taking it back to the smith for work when needed!
I have tried the Slip 2000 and it was not that effective. The borescope still shows that Iosso still works the best.
Tried Slip 2000 when it first became available. With my borescope, saw that it took the carbon out of the "gap" in front of the case mouth, and from the leade area directly in front of the chamber, but it would not remove it from the grooves. Went to work with JB bore paste, and got most of it out. Since then, have stopped using ball powders, like H414 and H380, that leave heavy carbon fouling buildups.
Spotcheck_Billy
artbosco said:
I guess it depends on whether or not you believe everything that you read in Precision Shooting Magazine.
My personal experiences with Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, and those of the majority of the forum members that have posted in this thread, are contrary to those of the author of the PS article.
BTW - I have the unlimited use of a Hawkeye.
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