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shooting with a dry Barrel?

Thanks for all the info. This is great but its also a lot to take in with so many different mixes.
Ok,
If we shoot our first round after cleaning with some type of lube in the barrel and gun powder is the only type of lube in our barrels for many shots after the first given that gun powder has a type of graphite in it correct? Should we use a type of powder/wet graphite to lube before the first shot?
Anthony
 
Lubing the barrel is dated back to before I started shooting . The barrels were steel powder was corrosive So was the primers . The barrels had to be lubed after cleanings . Many of barrel cleaning solvents we use are corrosive . The type of lube is a shooter choice . I can tell you my hunting gun gets shot befor I hunt and don't get cleaned till after . Larry
 
Thanks for all the info. This is great but its also a lot to take in with so many different mixes.
Ok,
If we shoot our first round after cleaning with some type of lube in the barrel and gun powder is the only type of lube in our barrels for many shots after the first given that gun powder has a type of graphite in it correct? Should we use a type of powder/wet graphite to lube before the first shot?
Anthony
I'm not really sure the type of powder matters. Burnt powder is mostly carbon. I believe it is this freshly burned carbon that provides lubricity-irregardless of the powders composition. But just fired powder residue is still relatively soft- you can remove it from the case necks with your fingers, while a week later you need steel wool or a solvent to remove it. This harder carbon probably does not lubricate as well. Graphite is also a form of carbon and is soft whereas a diamond, also a form of carbon is extremely hard. The infamous carbon donut is closer to the latter league.
 
Ok so I am trying to learn something here...never tried the ATF thing but I might just start.
As far as running the barrel wet on the first shot, is there any concern with a bullet going 3,000fps hitting a slight film and/or tiny droplet of oil and causing excessive expansion/damage to the barrel?
I can see running a wet patch down the barrel and then patching out the residual until it's coated but "dry" as I do that now.
 
During the season, after cleaning, I run a patch lightly coated with WD 40, I dry the patch on a paper towel to remove any excess then run it through three more time to produce a very very light coat in the barrel. I've read that WD 40 should not be used in the barrel but for some reason it eliminates first shot flyers. And old ghog hunter I met over 20 years ago gave me this technique and I've been using it ever since and it works for me.

For storage however I use Hoppe's gun oil. At start of season I run a patch of Hoppe's No. 9, then dry patch, then a very very light coat of WD 40. First shot is always true.
 
Ok so I am trying to learn something here...never tried the ATF thing but I might just start.
As far as running the barrel wet on the first shot, is there any concern with a bullet going 3,000fps hitting a slight film and/or tiny droplet of oil and causing excessive expansion/damage to the barrel?
I can see running a wet patch down the barrel and then patching out the residual until it's coated but "dry" as I do that now.
The mentor who showed me the cleaning routine I now use is a 3 time score shooter of the year, shot a 250-25x 100 yd agg 3 times ,holds the 100/200/300 agg record and was awarded a Precision Rifleman silver jacket. I don't think you can accomplish all that with damaged barrels.
 
... is there any concern with a bullet going 3,000fps hitting a slight film and/or tiny droplet of oil and causing excessive expansion/damage to the barrel?

I don't think so, no. Not from what I've seen.

My take on this is that that first bullet is much more resiliant than the barrel's steel so anything getting forced into a new shape is gonna be on the bullet rather than the barrel's internal dimension.
 
As you read through these posts, there is one commonality.
Lube. We all have our favorites but if all the different lubes are working, maybe it's the fact that there is "something" in the bore for that first shot, until the powder fouling can take over as the lube.
Just my .02c worth,

Lloyd
 
I think the subject of dry vs. wet is a lot about what you call wet. Too much lube in the bore and I feel like there can be damage from "hydraulicing". OTOH, a bore that has been lubed and simply patched dry, isn't likely to be truly "dry", still having some lube and not enough to cause issues. Personally, I shoot with what, apparently, many would call a dry bore, having patched it out after cleaning with 2-3 dry patches. I think it boils down to what works for you. I do shoot almost exclusively, danzac coated bullets, though. But it's what works for me. YMMV.
 
I cannot tell you how many gun cleaning instructions that I have read that tell you to make sure to dry patch the bore prior to firing. Risk of "hydro something?" happening. I am a rookie compared to most shooters here. I bought into those instructions and now am getting conflicting info. You guys are screwing up my program :)
 
Too much lube in the bore and I feel like there can be damage from "hydraulicing".

There is the "hydro something?" word I was looking for.......
 
Here is my take . Lite oil no oil what brand or kind . When a bullet is fired You have
60,000 PSI of heat and gas going around and past the bullet from the time of ignition. This if my thoughts . Larry
 
Here is my take . Lite oil no oil what brand or kind . When a bullet is fired You have
60,000 PSI of heat and gas going around and past the bullet from the time of ignition. This if my thoughts . Larry
Easy problem to diagnose : Start using 6mm bullets in your Dasher instead of .224 caliber. This stuff is explained pretty well in the manuals....you must have missed a page or three.
 

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