First shot after cleaning

[Barlow]

I always run a wet patch of Outer's Gun Oil through my barrels after I clean them. This was after reading the instructions from Savage and their barrel cleaning recommendations years ago. Not a lot, just a little of it. I'm convinced it reduces copper fouling. It normally take 3 shots to get back where it should be. JMO Barlow

 

[K22]

I hesitate to post this because there's is going to be wrath of push back but I'll share it anyway. I store my rifles with a coating of preservative in the bore such as Hoppe's gun oil or Barricade to prevent corrosion. I remove with a few passes of a dry patches once the season begins. Sometimes the first shot is a slight flyer; sometimes not depending on the rifle.

While in season after each cleaning I run a patch of WD40 down the bore. I dry the patch on a paper towel and run it through the bore a few more times leaving a very thin coating in the bore. Using this method I have never had a flyer on the first shot. This method was given to me by an old shooter years ago. I don't know why it works but it works for me despite everything I've ever read and been told by gunsmiths to keep WD40 out of the bore.

 

[centershot]

I clean a bore with solvent, run two dry patches through it and the first shot is right in the center of the group. Guess I am blessed.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I hesitate to post this because there's is going to be wrath of push back but I'll share it anyway. I store my rifles with a coating of preservative in the bore such as Hoppe's gun oil or Barricade to prevent corrosion. I remove with a few passes of a dry patches once the season begins. Sometimes the first shot is a slight flyer; sometimes not depending on the rifle.

While in season after each cleaning I run a patch of WD40 down the bore. I dry the patch on a paper towel and run it through the bore a few more times leaving a very thin coating in the bore. Using this method I have never had a flyer on the first shot. This method was given to me by an old shooter years ago. I don't know why it works but it works for me despite everything I've ever read and been told by gunsmiths to keep WD40 out of the bore.

If it works, it works

Have you tried proving it with rifles that normally throw a bad first flier then stop once a thin layer of WD40 is in the bore?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I like lock eeze if im gonna use something. Just a tiny dot on the patch- too much and it takes about 8 shots for a ppc to settle down. Dry bore takes about 3

 

[Jet]

Just a wee bit of 2 stroke motor oil on a patch for a dry bore prior to shot #1.

 

[LHSmith]

According to Hart Rifle Barrels - it is possible to over-clean to the point of drying out the stainless steel. I used to have problems with barrels needing countless fouler shots until I followed the regimen of my BR mentors- clean the barrel while it is still warm -finish with a soaked patch of Butches oil (or Marvel Mystery Oil) and just prior to shooting again patch out with one or two loose patches. Lock-ease and Kroil took too many extra sighters.

 

[BP1]

I use lock ease and have been impressed with my first cold bore shot plus I’ve been told it helps clean up small imperfections in the barrel.

 

[K22]

If it works, it works

Have you tried proving it with rifles that normally throw a bad first flier then stop once a thin layer of WD40 is in the bore?

Before I began using this procedure, which I was quite skeptical of in the beginning, I would sometimes get first shot flyers from a clean bore at random which contained an oil based preservative even after passing a dry patch down the bore before firing. Sometimes I'd forget to patch the bore and almost always would have a clean bore first shot flyer. This occurred over some 10 to 14 rifles.

I found the WD 40 method to be convenient for me (in season) since after cleaning with solvents then leaving a very thin layer of WD 40 in the bore the rifle is ready to go with at least some protective substance in the bore to aid in preventing corrosion. When I retire the rifle for the season I use either Hoppe's or Barricade for a storage preservative.

However your point is well taken. I haven't down a scientific study to establish a cause and effect relationship.

 

[T-shooter]

After cleaning I run an oily patch through a couple times and then a dry patch to remove any extra oil. I'm thinking the 1st shot will make a little carbon in the bore. If shooting groups, with a cold barrel I fire one shot into the barrier to add some heat, a little fouling, and then proceed to shoot.

 

[RW]

"Speedy" Gonzales Hall of Fame bench rest shooter uses lock ease after a cleaning, but you don't need much and I believe if you use the aresol I think it has alcohol in it. RW

 

[4xforfun]

I read here liquid doesn't compress... Water doesn't yes , but oil does , that's why water in a motor will bend a connecting rod but oil or gas won't .

You have obviously never been out wheeling when a guy tries to start his Jeep/Bronco/Cruzer...whatever.......after a flop and a cylinder fills with oil and he skips the step where you remove the spark plugs. Twin batteries and good starter can bend a rod in a flash!!

Water actually does compress....about 4% total. hydraulic fluid will compress about .5% for every 1000 psi. Not sure about the exact properties of oil, but my guess is it is about like hydraulic fluid.

Tod

 

[mongo chicago]

I’ve seen people shoot firearms under water , didnt hurt them.

https://www.range365.com/how-to-shoot-glock-underwater

That's because the barrel is surrounded by water adding equal pressure to the outside of the barrel.

 

[Papa Charlie]

I think you need to be somewhere between a "Dry Bore" and a "Wet Bore". Running a dry patch or two down the barrel after lubrication will not remove the lubricant completely.
"Dry Bore"; What I believe they are referring to when the say "Dry Bore" is to run a solvent of some type down the bore to remove all lubricants and then shooting.
"Wet Bore"; Likewise, as stated earlier, you would not want an oily barrel either. Oil doesn't compress, that is why we use oils in Hydraulic systems. To send a projectile down the pipe with a heavy concentration of oil, you are going to cause serious damage to the barrel.

 

[rr2030]

I read here liquid doesn't compress... Water doesn't yes , but oil does , that's why water in a motor will bend a connecting rod but oil or gas won't , diesel fires on compression.....

Disagree, I have seen more than one stuck open fuel injector fill a cylinder and bend a connecting rod.

Rayleigh-Plesset Equation, I'm going to use that terminology when I am using circular and convoluted logic in an argument just to prove what ever point I am trying to make !

 

[REELDOC]

Just a rookie observation here: The second subsequent shots are through dry bore.

 

[Jarhead6870]

I think you need to be somewhere between a "Dry Bore" and a "Wet Bore". Running a dry patch or two down the barrel after lubrication will not remove the lubricant completely.
"Dry Bore"; What I believe they are referring to when the say "Dry Bore" is to run a solvent of some type down the bore to remove all lubricants and then shooting.
"Wet Bore"; Likewise, as stated earlier, you would not want an oily barrel either. Oil doesn't compress, that is why we use oils in Hydraulic systems. To send a projectile down the pipe with a heavy concentration of oil, you are going to cause serious damage to the barrel.

I agree with this and haven't had problems with abnormal barrel wear or copper build-up. An oiled patch followed by a couple of dry patches to remove all surface oil but leave what's left in the pores of the metal.

 

[bench]

I always use a bit of oil in bore (almost a dry patch) and shoot away.

 

[divingin]

In order for a liquid under compression to do damage, it must be confined. Pascal's law states that a confined liquid will transmit pressure in all directions and at right angles to it's vessel. A barrel is not closed on the end and you don't have the bore full of oil. Just a film of oil, compressible or not, will not harm your firearm and it's doubtful it will raise pressure unless it seals a little of the blow by gases.

Think about a tire hydroplaning. The water can't squeeze out from the tread due to the speed of intrusion, and exerts enough force to lift the tire off the road. The "confined" property applies if the liquid can't escape quickly enough.

 

[Ned Ludd]

Think about a tire hydroplaning. The water can't squeeze out from the tread due to the speed of intrusion, and exerts enough force to lift the tire off the road. The "confined" property applies if the liquid can't escape quickly enough.

^^^This. Leaving a thick film of oil or other lube could cause pressure spikes. The pressure of concern is behind the bullet, not in front of it, and that end is closed off with the powder/combustion gasses expanding as the bullet traverses the bore. If you run a dry patch or two after the last wet (oil) patch, there will still be a very thin film of oil left in the bore, maybe only a few molecules thick, but there nonetheless. That is more than enough, so why risk anything doing else?