shooting with a dry Barrel?

[rardoin]

For Ed's red, I use any of the tranny fluids with charcoal lighter fluid. Usually 1 part tranny fluid to 3 parts lighter fluid. The lighter fluid is a direct and easy to find replacement for kerosene.

A tip for those that use lighter fluid for barrels or triggers- it is naptha that can be obtained cheaper by the gallon at a hardware store or as 'lantern gas' at a sporting goods store. I use it to clean triggers and to remove lanolin from cases/clean dies.

 

[Preacher]

Montana Extreme Accuracy oil is very light and works very well for this purpose.

Absolutely the best there is barrel wise.....

 

[dkhunt14]

I find that first round hits are closer to zero at 1000 yards when you run a few drops of Marvel mystery oil on a patch down the barrel. Also makes it easier to clean. Matt

 

[mikeinct]

I'm going to try the lock-ease stuff before firing,maybe w/some Ws2 ??...Normally I just push a dry patch thru to wipe out some of my Kroil oil..What do I know??? until I make Master Class....grin..Thanks Guys, mike

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

ATF is as close as it gets to being the "perfect" gun oil/lube, anywhere and at any price. Ed's Red is a wonderful overall cleaner as well and is very good on carbon. You can pay more, get neat little bottles..etc, but I've never found a better gun oil than ATF or a better cleaner than Ed's Red, which of course, is made with ATF.

 

[DeltaBravo]

I store my gun with Kroil/graphite in it. When I get to the range, I patch out the Kroil and run a Lock EZ patch thru the bore, let it sit for a while, then a dry patch to take out any liquid. When I didn't swab out any remaining Lock EZ liquid my first 3 or 3 fouling shots when high left; now they pretty much go where they're supposed to from shot one.

Dennis

 

[Keith Glasscock]

Mike,

Any particular brand or grade of ATF? I'm about out of Kroil and looking for something better.

 

[1lnbrdg]

I've used different brand/types over the years but it's all just a direct replacement for year's-ago sperm whale oil.

Truthfully, the cheapest you can find seems to work as well as any others.

 

[LHSmith]

My final patch is a lightly wet Kroil patch. have done this for 20+ years. I never noticed gumminess (sp?).

A pic of the lid to my Kroil can should be in Funk and Wagnels next to the word gumminess. I no longer use it. When I did it took extra foulers and it stinks to high heaven.

 

[rardoin]

A pic of the lid to my Kroil can should be in Funk and Wagnels next to the word gumminess. I no longer use it. When I did it took extra foulers and it stinks to high heaven.

Gotta watch that Chinese Kroil!

 

[DHD]

ATF is as close as it gets to being the "perfect" gun oil/lube, anywhere and at any price. Ed's Red is a wonderful overall cleaner as well and is very good on carbon. You can pay more, get neat little bottles..etc, but I've never found a better gun oil than ATF or a better cleaner than Ed's Red, which of course, is made with ATF.

I've used this recipe (Ed's Red) for years in my BPCR rifles. It works as good as any other pushing out loose carbon fouling and keep a quart container on hand all the time. I mentioned this on SnipersHide some years back and you would have thought I was a cave man with a club and not quite out of the stone age. Well, it works very well washing out the other cleaners I use in "modern" rifles and leaves a nice coat of corrosion preventative in my bores. I don't push a dry patch through the bore before shooting and so, yes I shoot wet for the first shot in a clean barrel.

 

[msinc]

For those that doubt this has any benefit consider this. If you were on a motorcycle and had to lay it down on the pavement, would you rather slide on dry pavement or wet? From personal experience I would much rather the pavement be wet as dry just plains sucks. Just a very light coat is all that's needed. I use instrument oil from Kano Labs but anything will work.

I agree, but who slops oil in the bore between EVERY shot????...now consider this: if you were on a motorcycle and had to lay it down and go skidding across the asphalt repeatedly would you rather have the asphalt coated with a light coat of oil for the first pass {because unless you are going to splash something in the bore for every shot lets face it, it's dry after the first one!!!} or take all the passes wrapped in a copper jacket??? I always thought the bullets jacket was supposed to be the "lube" for the barrel.
I am usually wrong.

 

[shoot4fun]

If you shouldn't shoot with a dry barrel what do use to have a moist barrel? Oil?
Anthony

A little naughty talk will moisten it up enough.
But always at the breech; never the muzzle (for safety reasons).

 

[spclark]

I always thought the bullets jacket was supposed to be the "lube" for the barrel.
I am usually wrong.

Copper jackets were invented so the lead core inside could be pushed faster & harder without melting onto the bore surface before it exits the muzzle. Copper in and of itself makes for wonderfully durable bullets but for our purposes solids ("monolithic") have to be vastly longer to give a decent BC, which makes necessary very fast twists... and they foul bores from their extended bearing surface. Most "solids" thus have drive bands upon which the bullets ride, keeping contact with the bore surface to a minimum, but they still need fast twists.

A shooting friend brought up the idea a few years ago that a significant percentage of the $$$ powder makers spend on R&D goes toward formulating additives that act as bullet lube once a round has been fired. 'Seasoning' or fouling a clean barrel is common practice, which kinda supports this.

 

[JimPag]

Have used a light coat of Marvel MO after cleaning the bore for over 50 years. Always has worked great. On all of my SR bench rifles I don't bother running a dry patch thru it before firing at a match. All of my bullets are HBN coated so it really doesn't matter at all.

 

[dkhunt14]

I agree, but who slops oil in the bore between EVERY shot????...now consider this: if you were on a motorcycle and had to lay it down and go skidding across the asphalt repeatedly would you rather have the asphalt coated with a light coat of oil for the first pass {because unless you are going to splash something in the bore for every shot lets face it, it's dry after the first one!!!} or take all the passes wrapped in a copper jacket??? I always thought the bullets jacket was supposed to be the "lube" for the barrel.
I am usually wrong.

Most powders have graphite and other additives to coat and lube the bore. The first shot is when the bullet runs on a bare bore. That is why I use the Marvel Mystery oil to lube the bore. MATT

 

[msinc]

Most powders have graphite and other additives to coat and lube the bore. The first shot is when the bullet runs on a bare bore. That is why I use the Marvel Mystery oil to lube the bore. MATT

Good point...I keep Shooters Choice MC-7 in my bores if I am hunting or shooting a lot. If I know they will be put up for a while I use light oil in the bore. I don't think I have ever wiped it out before shooting. From my experience, whether or not a rifle copper fouls has nothing to do with what lube is or is not in the bore. I also cant tell with a borescope by looking at it. One of the prettiest finished most flawless looking bores in any rifle I have ever seen copper fouls terrible after only a few shots and no it is not polished mirror smooth. I don't get it.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Lock-ease. If it's good enough for Tony Boyer, it's good enough for me.

That says it all.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Mike,

Any particular brand or grade of ATF? I'm about out of Kroil and looking for something better.

Kieth, like someone else said, it seems to make no difference. I just buy the cheapest dexron type atf and it seems to do very well. Look up the formula for Ed's Red if you plan to use it as a cleaner.

 

[BoydAllen]

I have mostly used Butch's Bore Shine to clean my stainless match grade barrels. It is petroleum based (as opposed to some of the newer water based solvents) I have never had a problem with copper fouling, after break in. If you think about it, completely drying a bore after using a solvent based product to clean, by running 2-3 patches down the bore is not really going to happen. There is always a slight residue, which would take something like brake parts cleaner to remove, and get to a bone dry bore. Also, I use 1 3/8" square patches and a .22 caliber Sinclair piercing style jag in my 6mm barrels, so the fit is not tight. My rifles are stored in the house which is heated and air conditioned. If they were stored where the air was more humid, I would oil my chromoly barrels before putting them away, and then patch that out before shooting, but I have not had any issues. We have been having a run of hot dry weather, where the outdoor humidity cycles between the high 60s to sometimes well below 20% in the heat of the day. This morning, in the house, a little temp/humidity meter that I have reads 10%. Even in the winter, when the weather is cool and damp, the house humidity stays low. When I use some other cleaner, I usually patch it out and then run a patch of BBS down the bore, let it set a bit, and then run 2-3 dry patches.