Shooting new barrel, no copper fouling

[MS50]

I put together a 6br using a Mcgowen 1:8 prefit. I started fireforming/OCW using H4895 and 105gr Match Burners. I probably started too low. Velocities were between 2670 and 2840. I did not use a traditional break-in procedure. The new barrel was cleaned well. I fired 31 rounds, then cleaned it. Using Hoppes #9 for starters, I found very little carbon. Using Hoppes Copper Remover, I found no blue/green/copper. I repeated a 5 minute Hoppes Copper Remover soak, followed by 3 passes with a brush. Then patches, still no copper. I use Hoppes on my Savage factory barrels, and get loads of copper on my patches. Am I missing anything? Should I try another copper remover before I reload to higher velocities?

 

[hogpatrol]

It's possible but I never had any success with Hoppes copper remover. I would borescope it to be sure there's no copper.

 

[Damon555]

I just installed a 223 AI Criterion pre-fit on a Savage action and didn't get a spot of copper out of it after fire forming 50 pieces of brass.....200 rounds later and still no copper. Butches Bore shine is what I'm using and it gets plenty of copper out of the factory barrels I'm cleaning. Maybe I need to let it sit in that barrel a little longer....

 

[1raggedhole]

Hand lapped barrels will not foul nearly as bad as mass produced factory barrels. I've had best luck with Barnes CR-10. If you don't get blue patches with that, there is no copper, period.
My shot out 204 takes about 10 patches of CR10 to get the blue out after 20 shots! It took 2 when it was new.
Meanwhile, my relatively new criterion 6br has no blue after 100 rounds. The finish is simply much better.

 

[dmoran]

A good barrel shouldn't copper much at all after break in, until it gets worn. And in my opinion, chattered up Savage barrels are not in the same league as most custom barrels, that are a very poor comparison.
Donovan

 

[MS50]

Thanks for the feedback. I've read many threads re pros and cons and procedures for custom barrel break-in. I fully expected to get at least mild copper fouling initially. When I didn't, it threw me sideways. I figured I was doing something wrong. I can comfortably get on with loading to higher velocities and finding the nodes.

 

[Clavius-Walker]

Most of that copper in barrel break ii is from the sharp edges of the lead where the bullet engages the rifling, when it's fresh it will cut very fine, almost dust like, particles of copper that get blown down the barrel till it smooths over some.

 

[Keith Glasscock]

I put together a 6br using a Mcgowen 1:8 prefit. I started fireforming/OCW using H4895 and 105gr Match Burners. I probably started too low. Velocities were between 2670 and 2840. I did not use a traditional break-in procedure. The new barrel was cleaned well. I fired 31 rounds, then cleaned it. Using Hoppes #9 for starters, I found very little carbon. Using Hoppes Copper Remover, I found no blue/green/copper. I repeated a 5 minute Hoppes Copper Remover soak, followed by 3 passes with a brush. Then patches, still no copper. I use Hoppes on my Savage factory barrels, and get loads of copper on my patches. Am I missing anything? Should I try another copper remover before I reload to higher velocities?

Don't go too much higher. 2850 is a good number for a 6br and 105's.

 

[MS50]

No doubt the lead edges are sharp. During the initial cleaning, I had to push hard to get the flannel patch past the end of the rod guide. This barrel has a 3 degree lead angle. After 60 rounds, it's not snagging as much, but it's still a push to get beyond that area. Found a .3 inch match burner node at 2880, and a .3 inch Amax node at 2905. No signs of pressure. If I can find similar nodes at lower MVs, I'll do it. No copper. Think I'm good to go for now.

 

[bpmoss1]

Don't go too much higher. 2850 is a good number for a 6br and 105's.

What he said! Also my 6br Bartlein barrel has very little copper fouling from day 1. I use hoppes 9 for carbon then butchs bore shine for copper then finish w hoppes 9 and put it up. Works great for me and my barrel has never seen a brush, just patches Barry.

 

[Iowa Fox]

Just me and I'm no expert. I think the lower velocity loads are the best way to break in a new barrel. I've usually got plenty of time to clean and soak a barrel with CLP, Hoppes, or Eezox or whatever juice I have handy before the first shot is ever fired. I always leave a microscopic film as I don't want a dry barrel for that sticky copper to adhere to. I use junk bullets and in 5 to 10 shots that barrel is what its ever going to be. Those first few low speed low temp bullets will take away anything that needs that final polish going in one direction. Heck, new action, new barrel that I put together I'm going to start cautious anyhow.

 

[slurpin dog]

Just me and I'm no expert. I think the lower velocity loads are the best way to break in a new barrel. I've usually got plenty of time to clean and soak a barrel with CLP, Hoppes, or Eezox or whatever juice I have handy before the first shot is ever fired. I always leave a microscopic film as I don't want a dry barrel for that sticky copper to adhere to. I use junk bullets and in 5 to 10 shots that barrel is what its ever going to be. Those first few low speed low temp bullets will take away anything that needs that final polish going in one direction. Heck, new action, new barrel that I put together I'm going to start cautious anyhow.

Very good advice on breaking in with the lower velocity loads. I have a Kreiger fired 250 times. No blue patches yet. I used Butches Boreshine.

 

[AckleymanII]

Montana Extreme bore solvent is an oil based product, good to soak overnight...if you are a soaker.

The Montana Extreme copper killer is the best of the best of the copper solvents that I have on hand, and I have all that are mentioned above.

Short stroking the leade angle with JB or ISSO when a barrel is new is not a bad thing, ISSO is 5x more abrasive than JB.

 

[DanSavage]

I've got a McGowen in .223 that has never collected copper, I've got maybe 2000 rounds through it now. They are lapped well and smooth as glass.

I have an Eabco accuracy barrel that copper's up pretty bad with Sierra bullet's and not nearly as bad with Hornady's,, it's a 6 BR.

My factory Savage barrel's coppered like a sewer pipe.

Have a Shaw that coppered minimal at first then nothing after break in.

Shilen barrel in .308 doesn't copper.

Have a Bartlien on order,,, it netter not copper on me!

All in all copper just adds a waste of time when you want to clean and I like to keep my barrel's clean.

Oh and I use Sweet's 7.62 for copper removal with great result's I just make sure I don't leave it in for more than 20 minutes and clean it all out with brake clean and oil. I've been using a blend oil I came up with it's 50% 5w30 Amsoil 25,000 mile motor oil and 50% Wolf full synthetic transmission fluid..Good brew for carbon and conditioning.

 

[AckleymanII]

Eabco accuracy barrel?????????? hummmm......

 

[bdale]

Eabco accuracy barrel?????????? hummmm......

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE...bco.com//RK=0/RS=PwmhJONNihkS.gaQdTJGqr.2Arc-

 

[Petey]

I figured I'd chime in here since I just happened to help a friend break in a McGowen pretfit in a 6.5CM on Friday.

It took about 15-20mins to fit the new barrel and we went out to my range in the back yard.. telling my wife we'd be back in an hr. HA!, 4 hours later, half a bag of patches and the break in process was complete...

It took all 10 shots to finally show no signs of copper, but I use good chemicals like sweets, shooters choice and 10X. Each shot took well over 30 patches to show white, even after scrubbing with the harder Iosso nylon eliminator brushes in between, backed with Sweets.

You either got a good barrel that was lapped well or you're not using the right chemicals. My guess is that latter as your comment on sharp lead. That's where your copper should start. Personally I don't bother with Hoppes of any kind any more. After using a borescope in a "clean" barrel using Hoppes, I've found it doesn't do much of anything other than smell good.

I could be speaking out of class here, but from my experience with Krieger, Bartlien & Kostyshyn, that McGowen was a nightmare.. She cleans up great now, but to get there was quite the journey. Could have been just his barrel, as every barrel is different.

If you don't have access to a borescope, just buy a different chemical to give you piece of mind. Sweets is a proven mixture. When I think my barrel is clean, I just try a different chemical and see if it picks up anything the last one left. Hoppes leaves A LOT in my experience.

 

[MS50]

I'm going to try another chemical after my next time out with the 6br. I'll see what happens. I switched back to Hoppes #9 after using a low odor product on my Savage factory barrels, and found that it didn't work well. I clean after range sessions. After 200 rounds, my 308 went to 3 MOA groups at 300 yards. Messed around with my scope for a while, figuring it was the problem. Used Hoppes #9 and Hoppes copper remover over a 4 hour period of soaking, brushing and patching (at least 50-60 passes with the rod) to remove an amazing amount of carbon and copper. I was back to sub-moa at 300 yards. I'm interested to see what the results will be with another chemical on the McGowen.