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Royal Case Lube story

BoydAllen

Gold $$ Contributor
A while back I expanded, turned, and formed a false shoulder on a batch of Norma 6PPC cases. (barrel a little long on headspace, brass .005 short, totaling .009) After all of the operations were performed, and I had wiped out the necks very thoroughly, I discovered that there was some residual lube, just below the necks, beyond my reach. I had used one of the cases to receive thrown charges, calibrating a powder measure. Some powder hung up in the case, stuck there by a little lube. Anyway, after doing some research, this is how I solved the problem.

In anticipation of doing some bullet coating, I have a couple of glass jars, one had held Smuckers preserves, the other, the same capacity, pickle relish. Fifty cases fit in one jar with some room at the top, and the lids of both jars seal very well. I had an almost full bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol and filled the jar with enough to cover the cases, and resealed it. I turned it and shook it a bit, and then set it aside while I did other chores. Later I poured the alcohol into the other jar, and spread the cases on a scrap of terrycloth towel to dry. Those cases came out totally free of any lube, bone dry, inside and out. It has been my experience that not all lubes are that easy to remove, and the alcohol does not take much time or any heat to evaporate. Comments are welcome.
 
Good tip for everyone, I use alcohol as well. Another use is to clean my bore brushes and jags as well a wipe down my cleaning rods during and after cleaning. Bore solvent will degrade about anything if it is left on too long.

Just my .02
Tim
 
A while back I expanded, turned, and formed a false shoulder on a batch of Norma 6PPC cases. (barrel a little long on headspace, brass .005 short, totaling .009) After all of the operations were performed, and I had wiped out the necks very thoroughly, I discovered that there was some residual lube, just below the necks, beyond my reach. I had used one of the cases to receive thrown charges, calibrating a powder measure. Some powder hung up in the case, stuck there by a little lube. Anyway, after doing some research, this is how I solved the problem.

In anticipation of doing some bullet coating, I have a couple of glass jars, one had held Smuckers preserves, the other, the same capacity, pickle relish. Fifty cases fit in one jar with some room at the top, and the lids of both jars seal very well. I had an almost full bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol and filled the jar with enough to cover the cases, and resealed it. I turned it and shook it a bit, and then set it aside while I did other chores. Later I poured the alcohol into the other jar, and spread the cases on a scrap of terrycloth towel to dry. Those cases came out totally free of any lube, bone dry, inside and out. It has been my experience that not all lubes are that easy to remove, and the alcohol does not take much time or any heat to evaporate. Comments are welcome.

I use alcohol also, and run the appropriate sized little bottle brush up and down once to get any lube off the inside of the neck, while they are still wet.
IMG_0704.jpeg
 
Thanks Boyd, I have been using Royal for awhile now and like it a lot, I will try this out next time. How are you applying your Royal, with cases standing in a tray?
 
A while back I expanded, turned, and formed a false shoulder on a batch of Norma 6PPC cases. (barrel a little long on headspace, brass .005 short, totaling .009) After all of the operations were performed, and I had wiped out the necks very thoroughly, I discovered that there was some residual lube, just below the necks, beyond my reach. I had used one of the cases to receive thrown charges, calibrating a powder measure. Some powder hung up in the case, stuck there by a little lube. Anyway, after doing some research, this is how I solved the problem.

In anticipation of doing some bullet coating, I have a couple of glass jars, one had held Smuckers preserves, the other, the same capacity, pickle relish. Fifty cases fit in one jar with some room at the top, and the lids of both jars seal very well. I had an almost full bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol and filled the jar with enough to cover the cases, and resealed it. I turned it and shook it a bit, and then set it aside while I did other chores. Later I poured the alcohol into the other jar, and spread the cases on a scrap of terrycloth towel to dry. Those cases came out totally free of any lube, bone dry, inside and out. It has been my experience that not all lubes are that easy to remove, and the alcohol does not take much time or any heat to evaporate. Comments are welcome.
Does alcohol remove the carbon from the inside of the neck?
 
Does alcohol remove the carbon from the inside of the neck?
I doubt is but it is an easy experiment. Let us know. I was working with new brass, no carbon. The brass is so dry I am going to try something to make sure that I do not get any cold welding if I preload and it is a while before I shoot it.
 
I doubt is but it is an easy experiment. Let us know. I was working with new brass, no carbon. The brass is so dry I am going to try something to make sure that I do not get any cold welding if I preload and it is a while before I shoot it.
I graphite the bullet base when seating in new cases. I found I do not need to do this when I have carbon inside the neck.
 
The Sinclair graphite in those little beeds. I just put the base in it and swirl. I hated using new cases. The velocity could be 20-30 fps low and accuracy was lacking. The graphite made things more consistent.
 
Thanks Boyd, I have been using Royal for awhile now and like it a lot, I will try this out next time. How are you applying your Royal, with cases standing in a tray?
I just put it inside the necks just before I expanded each one, with one of those harder Q tips with the long wooden shaft. I had plenty of time, and only 50 cases to do.
 

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