Oil barrel after cleaning?

[thefitter]

I know it's a good idea to run a oil patch down the barrel prior to long term storage. Is there any reason to do this if the rifle will only sit for a week? I just use a copper solvent and then several dry patches and put it away. Thanks

 

[ridgeway]

I bet if you ask 5 people, you will get 10 different answers. Me personally, I don't shoot a dry bore. I have a 50/50 mixture of Hoppes #9 and Kroil that I use to lube the bore. What I do after cleaning is run one wet patch down the bore and let it alone if I'm not shooting for several days or weeks. Before I shoot, I send a dry patch down to mop out the bore. Works for me, but can't tell you if it makes a difference one way or another, lol.

 

[TheSnake]

I always do. I also wipe the outside with a lightly oiled patch and see light traces of rust on the patch sometimes. If it's on the outside, it will be on the inside too.

My brother does not and I clean his guns behind him every so often and always find rust.

To me, it's worth the extra effort.

 

[tenring]

I don't know any competitor who does this between relays. I oil CM barrels only if not going to be shot for a long time. SS barrels should not rust.

 

[fdshuster]

A lot will depend on your type of enviornment where the rifle is kept. I'm blessed with a very dry basement/workshop area, so free of any dampness that wood working tools that are plain steel do not have a trace of rust, anywhere. Even at that, for any rifles that will not be used for a while (over the Winter), I do coat the bores with a very light application of oil with a note reminder to dry patch before firing. Of course, never put them away for any length of time in a zippered case, or anything else that is enclosed. My gunsmith has shown those results to me when someone brings a now completely rusted piece of junk to him and expects him to "restore it".

 

[4xforfun]

Never finish with copper cleaner if you intend to store the gun...you can't get all of the resadue out with dry patches. I always finish with patches wet with break cleaner ...let dry for a min, and then a patch with a dab of oil on it....even if I am at a match and going to shoot in ten min.

 

[mkihne]

A drop of Kroil on a patch, put it away, and if kept clean, shoot it that way next time out. I do not put a bullet down a dry barrel at any time. Don't know how many you have to put down a dry barrel to contribute to fire-cracking, but it can't help. This applies to any cleaning at matches between relays, for me.

Mike

 

[SmokinJoe]

Very, very important to run an oil patch through the bore of CM barrels after cleaning. Modern cleaning solvents like Butch's or Shooters Choice actually have water as a component, so the manufacturer told me, and if left unoiled in CM barrels will result in rust/pitting. With SS barrels, it is not a problem in my experience. When I get a rifle out to shoot it, I always run a dry patch through it before firing. If it is a SS barrel, I run one patch with solvent through it followed by two dry. That seems to leave the bore in better condition than just a dry patch.

 

[artbosco]

I know it's a good idea to run a oil patch down the barrel prior to long term storage. Is there any reason to do this if the rifle will only sit for a week? I just use a copper solvent and then several dry patches and put it away.

After doing a thorough cleaning, regardless of how long the rifle will sit, the last thing I do is run one patch of Lock Ease [Graphited Lock Fluid] through the barrell: http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/homehardware/179 . I use the non-aerosol version. The small 3.4 oz plastic bottle lasts forever.

It's also recommended by Thomas [Speedy] Gonzalez, Benchrest Hall of Fame member: http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel%20Break-In.htm .

 

[thefitter]

This is what I love about this forum! I post a question before turning in and wake up to 8 thoughtful, polite answers with no smart ass remarks.

Thanks. The main reason I'm asking is that it seems when I do it the way mention my first shot is always dead nuts on. I wonder what any reside does to the first shot and if this is why people always shoot foulers, to burn out that residue.

Since this is a "tactical" rifle I prefer the first shot to be on always. But the other thing I'm wondering about is if NOT oiling it could lead to premature fouling. Meaning the bore is so clean that it really grabs the copper.

Thoughts?

 

[Ing. Michael W. Mayerl]

I know it's a good idea to run a oil patch down the barrel prior to long term storage. Is there any reason to do this if the rifle will only sit for a week? I just use a copper solvent and then several dry patches and put it away. Thanks

Test if your barrel has an other trajectory when you run a oil patch and then a dry patch.
I have good experience with KG12 - it doesnt contain ammonia.

 

[artbosco]

This is what I love about this forum! I post a question before turning in and wake up to 8 thoughtful, polite answers with no smart ass remarks.

Yes, I believe the Forum Boss has done an outstanding job of creating a pleasant atmosphere for the exchange of ideas and helpful tips. Too bad some sites are quite the opposite.

Thanks. The main reason I'm asking is that it seems when I do it the way mention my first shot is always dead nuts on. I wonder what any reside does to the first shot and if this is why people always shoot foulers, to burn out that residue.

I would suggest that fowlers are used [more than anything else] to lay down carbon and copper which aides in filling in the low areas and actually smoothing up the barrel. Although I shoot a stainless steel hand lapped Krieger, sometimes it seems to shoot its best when its had 30 to 35 rounds through it.

Since this is a "tactical" rifle I prefer the first shot to be on always. But the other thing I'm wondering about is if NOT oiling it could lead to premature fouling. Meaning the bore is so clean that it really grabs the copper.

I know quite a few expert marksmen, Jackie Schmidt being one of them, who always shoot dry to slightly dry barrels without discernible difference.

 

[jonbearman]

Marvel mystery oil works great and dry patch before firing.

 

[Forum Boss]

If you use Wipe-Out foam as a cleaner, you can put the gun away for a limited time without oiling because the Wipe-Out contains anti-corrosion elements. However, If I put the gun away for long-term storage I put Eezox on the outside and inside of the barrel.

I have found that the cold-bore zero is pretty good after Wipe-out treatment (with no Eezox). But I do put a couple dry patches through the bore prior to shooting. (Some folks would say that's really not a 'cold-bore' as I've done something to the bore before firing.)

I tried the Lock-Ease, which is colloidal graphite. It didn't seem to have much of an effect at all, but then I'm not capable of shooting as well as Speedy.

 

[6BRinNZ]

Thanks. The main reason I'm asking is that it seems when I do it the way mention my first shot is always dead nuts on. I wonder what any reside does to the first shot and if this is why people always shoot foulers, to burn out that residue.

Since this is a "tactical" rifle I prefer the first shot to be on always. But the other thing I'm wondering about is if NOT oiling it could lead to premature fouling. Meaning the bore is so clean that it really grabs the copper.

Thoughts?

I always put kroil through after cleaning my rifle and putting it away - even the SS Barrels can be subject to corrosion particularly on coastal areas. The quote below is from a barrel manufacturer. In terms of the first shot - I always put 1 clean patch down prior to shooting.

I have found that at 200yrds this first shot will be no more than 1/2 inch low and windage is spot on. The FPS will always be at the bottom end of my ES range. The second shot and on are good to go.

Once I forgot to put a clean patch down - the kroil had been in the barrel for a couple of weeks - it took 9 shots for the FPS to come up, the first shot was 70fps slower. I was amazed it took so many shots to clean the oil out.

You could maybe try storing the barrel with oil and then using a solvent to clean out prior to shooting. I suspect there will be a measure of oil left in the barrel - such that the barrel isn't so dry and clean that it would foul excessively. This may mean the first shot isn't impacted....first shot distance would be a factor here.

I have used a bore scope to inspect my barrels with my cleaning and storing regime and I am happy with it.

"Corrosion Resistance: 416R is a "rust-resisting" steel alloy, not "rust-proof". This means that 416R will rust in certain conditions, such as the salty ocean atmospheres"

 

[dreever]

The last thing I do after cleaning is run a patch with "Lock Eze" down the barrel before I put it to bed.

Danny

 

[40X Guy]

As has already been mentioned, after cleaning I run a wet patch of Kroil thru before parking rifle in safe, then I run a dry patch thru before next session, then another patch thru with a dime sized amount of Kroil on patch. Then let em rip. This is mentioned in Bill Shehane's method of barrel break in which has worked very well for me, and I continue with this method before shooting a clean barrel. The Kroil seems to get to the molecular level. I live and work in probably the heaviest rust belt area of the US here in Pa. and i have a large amount of Kroil on hand which will absolutely loosen any fastener that most will not and will do the same thing to protect your barrel and get under the crud. Go Kroil and don't look back.

Frank

 

[RDavies]

All of my 10 or so target barrels get put away soaked with a few wet patches of Butches boreshine and I havent had any problems with them, even checking with my borescope. Some of these barrels get put away for 6 months at a time with Boreshine in them. I have the benefit of a dry basement so this helps me. Has anyone here had any problems with storing barrels coated with general purpose cleaners such as Boreshine?

Before I use the barrel again, I always run a wet patch or two, then dry patch before shooting. If the barrel has been left soaking for a long time, I always end up getting more crud out on the final patch out.

 

[RDavies]

A few years ago, when I was living in a very humid area on a beach front, with rust being a problem, another shooter put me onto Sweets Oil (not copper cleaner) to rust proof the barrel for storage. He found, and so did I, that Sweets Oil seemed to always end up getting more copper out of the barrel which had previously been cleaned, as well as protecting from rust. This sweets oil did not cause any pitting or anything from ammonia like the sweets copper cleaner would.

If I was living in a rust prone area, I would switch back to swabbing some Sweets oil through to protect from rust, and drag out the last remenents of copper as well.

 

[Doug B.]

I have been using 3 and 1 oil for 40 years and I have yet to have rust anywhere on even 1 firearm. I believe there are a lot of marketing ploys out there, and, the manufacturers really "see us coming". It's cheap, available everywhere, but, more importantly.....it works really good.

Oh...If my rifle gets cleaned, it gets oiled, irregardless of how long it might get stored. I don't dry patch before firing either. You never know what type of weather one might encounter while in the field.