Oil barrel after cleaning?

[Frankr]

I have been around benchrest and benchrest cleaning technic's of all kinds.
i have seen the lockeze one and most of them. i believe in the barrel break in proceedure.
no matter what people say,the barrel manfucture reccomends it.they know more then me.
so my answer is never shoot a dry bore..i use all kinds of solvents. my favorite is butches bore shine, patch out, then follow with a soaking wet patch of kroil oil,then followed by two or three dry patches and you are ready to shoot it or store it.
so YES allways oil after cleaning.

 

[shooter65]

As a matter of fact it's a very good practice. Except when a cold bore shoot is important and then that's open to debate. It's best to always have a light coat of oil in the barrel for that first bullet to ride on. Reduces copper fouling build up a great deal. I like to use something with just a little more viscosity than Kroil oil but it will work.

I have shot literally hundreds and hundreds of groups starting with a light coat of oil in the barrel and have never run into pressure issues. If the chamber has a coating on it and your running high pressure loads then you can get a little more thrust on the bolt but out of a 308 that's not much.
I know some of you guys never clean but for those that do and pay attention to the copper fouling, try this. The anology I use is if you were on a motorcycle and had to lay it down, would rather have your a** slide on dry pavement or wet? Dry steel against dry gilding metal means gauling. After the first shot you have powder fouling as a lube. All it takes is 3-4 drops on a patch and work it into the barrel. You might be surprised at how much less jacket fouling you have.

PS I don't use Kroil for this because it is a light penetrating oil. Any gun oil will work.

 

[mikecr]

After cleaning I flush out the bore with the best alcohol I can get my hands on. After an hour or so, I run a dry patch through to see that the bore is truly dry.
Then I pre-foul the bore with a dry burnishing of WS2, & put the gun in the safe. I do this after every single use of any rifle.
1st, cold-clean-barrel shot is always dead on the money, as this is just what I developed loads for.

There have been tests that showed it takes quite a few shots to burn oil out of a bore, and truly settle in POI. Soaked in oil is very tenacious..
Also, if you store your gun barrel up in a cabinet or safe, some of that oil can eventually migrate into the chamber, which is never good.

 

[TonyR]

After cleaning I flush out the bore with the best alcohol I can get my hands on. After an hour or so, I run a dry patch through to see that the bore is truly dry.
Then I pre-foul the bore with a dry burnishing of WS2, & put the gun in the safe. I do this after every single use of any rifle.
1st, cold-clean-barrel shot is always dead on the money, as this is just what I developed loads for.

There have been tests that showed it takes quite a few shots to burn oil out of a bore, and truly settle in POI. Soaked in oil is very tenacious..
Also, if you store your gun barrel up in a cabinet or safe, some of that oil can eventually migrate into the chamber, which is never good.

Mike
What is WS2?

 

[therifler]

just like to mention i read some great ideas for oiling and storing guns in this post . keep in mind when choosing a bore oil some of the gun solvent oils evaporate in 7 to 10 days .a call to the manufacturer or an on-line search would be helpful . T.R.

 

[woolenmammoth]

[/quote]

Mike
What is WS2?
[/quote]

google is your friend: http://www.ws2coating.com/ws2-dry-film.html

there is a guy on ebay currently selling small quantities for a tad bit more than lock eze.

 

[TonyR]

Mike
What is WS2?
[/quote]

google is your friend: http://www.ws2coating.com/ws2-dry-film.html

there is a guy on ebay currently selling small quantities for a tad bit more than lock eze.
[/quote]

Thanks for the tip. I found the guy on eBay. Sounds like it well worth a try.

 

[woolenmammoth]

I just got some myself. Will make an interesting comparison next to lock eze.

 

[jonbearman]

Good lord,why not auto transmition oil or anything,it all wipes out.CLP is one of the best because it actually lifts copper and will not hurt the bore.Their is no majic stuff ,it is all snake oil,LOL Just oil it and wipe it out before firing and lets get onto a different subject.LOL LOL LOL

 

[TonyR]

Good lord,why not auto transmition oil or anything,it all wipes out.CLP is one of the best because it actually lifts copper and will not hurt the bore.Their is no majic stuff ,it is all snake oil,LOL Just oil it and wipe it out before firing and lets get onto a different subject.LOL LOL LOL

Jon. You're probably right but I had just read thaty section in Tony Boyer's book so I have to try it. It won't be my biggest shooting boondoggle by any means. Now there is an idea for a new thread!

 

[jonbearman]

Lawrence we think alike.I do this alot and especially while they are in the safe waiting for the next decade before they get used.LOL

 

[jonbearman]

Where did you buy the tungsten disulfide?

 

[TonyR]

Where did you buy the tungsten disulfide?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280654404122

 

[Hatrick]

All of my 10 or so target barrels get put away soaked with a few wet patches of Butches boreshine and I havent had any problems with them, even checking with my borescope. Some of these barrels get put away for 6 months at a time with Boreshine in them. I have the benefit of a dry basement so this helps me. Has anyone here had any problems with storing barrels coated with general purpose cleaners such as Boreshine?

Before I use the barrel again, I always run a wet patch or two, then dry patch before shooting. If the barrel has been left soaking for a long time, I always end up getting more crud out on the final patch out.

I started using Butch's because it seems to do a better job on copper that Hoppes, but in the instructions they say to dry patch and oil upon completion of cleaning. Two of the ingredients in Butch's are H2O and ammonium salt, which by themselves would be hell on steel, but mixed with everything else in there, maybe no big deal. IMHO I would feel okay leaving hoppes #9 to soak, but not Butch's.

 

[mikecr]

I bought a couple pounds of WS2 from RoseMill a long time ago.
Far as I know, you can still get it there. But the Ebay offering may be the same(not sure of it's grade).
It don't take much at all to cover you forever.

 

[RDavies]

Hatrick, I might have to start leaving some Kroil in the bore just in case. The only problem is when I was using kroil a few years ago, it took a fair few shots before the barrel settled down at long range again. But this was only with 2 barrels, not a big sample.

 

[TonyR]

I bought a couple pounds of WS2 from RoseMill a long time ago.
Far as I know, you can still get it there. But the Ebay offering may be the same(not sure of it's grade).
It don't take much at all to cover you forever.

Mike.
How do you apply the stuff to the bore? I've got some coming now I need to learn to use it.

 

[spclark]

SS barrels should not rust.

Don't believe it! "Stainless" steel WILL rust under commonly found conditions.

If you use moly (molybdenum disulfide) or DANZAC (tungsten disulfide) you must recognize and remediate the potential for corrosion from the sulfur-bearing compounds left behind in barrels when they encounter moisture. As these compounds tend to attract moisture from the air, left exposed they'll find enough to form sulfuric acid.

 

[LHSmith]

Never did any testing to verify this, but using an oil that has Teflon,(i.e. Rem-Oil, Birchwood Casey Synthetic gun oil, and some Hoppes products) has been known to cause accuracy issues when used in a rifle bore. I use Butch's Gun Oil because, according to Sinclair, it does not contain Teflon. I apply it after cleaning at the end of a match, and run a loose bare patch through at the beginning of the next match. Each rifle behaves differently as to the number of shots required to "condition" the bore...of which barrel temp.,& bbl. vibration are part of the equation.... it's not just the amount of fouling.

 

[Rock Knocker]

How about a CLP type oil that cleans and penetrates vs. a thicker "lubricating" oil that coats and holds better?

I have used both but havent really paid much attention to slight group variations. If im doing some sort of accuracy tests i usually shoot around 10 shots before starting, if i am competing i take a couple sighters and im usually shooting far enough that i dont know if its me, the wind or the rifle.