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Long range load development at 100 yards.

Johnnyj, I personally like the low ES of the -.028 to - .031 groups.


It has the same vertical extreme spread range as the 19-22 groups with better ES numbers if I count your grids right and give no discount for flyer or group orientation. A 9 is a 9 even if your others are 10's. That is why I place more emphasis personaly on the lower ES of the 28-31 range vs the 19-22.

I would clean the barrel , shoot a few foulers, load to .030 to split the depth range and load three groups a tenth apart powder wise and compare those. I believe you will find a node their for powder AND a seating depth range with low ES for the longer diatances!

Anneal before you size the brass for the next test as well.

What length barrel?
 
I would test both to make sure. To back and shoot some groups at -.020" and some at -.029" and see which performs better. Also agree with going back in .1 gr increments to find out where your powder node starts and ends.
 
Knowing the powder range of your node and even a seating depth range is great insurance! I stumbled on a great load and wondered why I had some inconsistent flyers. Went back and discovered I was at the very edge of a three tenth grain node of varget. Went in the middle and it became much more consistent and shot my personal best with that load last fall. I had struggled with the inconsistency earlier matches.
 
broncman said:
Johnnyj, I personally like the low ES of the -.028 to - .031 groups.


It has the same vertical extreme spread range as the 19-22 groups with better ES numbers if I count your grids right and give no discount for flyer or group orientation. A 9 is a 9 even if your others are 10's. That is why I place more emphasis personaly on the lower ES of the 28-31 range vs the 19-22.

I would clean the barrel , shoot a few foulers, load to .030 to split the depth range and load three groups a tenth apart powder wise and compare those. I believe you will find a node their for powder AND a seating depth range with low ES for the longer diatances!

Anneal before you size the brass for the next test as well.

What length barrel?

24" Krieger 1:11
 
went back to the range today despite the cold temps and north wind..! I was concerned with the results from Sunday with near perfect conditions. Given the wind today and the shakey wooden benches that are the public range. Luckily I was able to get the test done before someone sat next to me. The benches are connected in pairs. So your cross hairs will move an inch or more as people sit down, beat on the AR that they cannot get to eject, etc... :o

I decided to test again my best seating depths of .020 and .040. Ran 5 small strings right around the best powder charges on these tests. My rifle either like to shoot in the wind ??? Or clean... ;D Felt really good with the results I got today. I'm anxious to get my full length neck bushing dies as my full length sizer is putting a lot of tension on the bullet. Several loaded much stronger than others by feel, and one was off the chart difficult. I marked that round in hind site should have ditched that round...

Is the velocity issues related to this crazy neck tension I feel like I'm seeing? That new die cannot get here soon enough!

 
I'm sort of guessing the ES is neck tension consistency as I'm using the full length RCBS standard die until I get my redding FL neck bushing die. The holes between targets I just tested some velocity on neck sized brass to see how much difference that made..? The spread was pretty good. Maybe it's my budget model ProChrono digital chrono also..??
 
I'd like to see some final groups from you guys that have used this method after your done with the seating depth test. Before and after would be cool if you have them. Thanks.
 
I did this test with inconclusive results but I suspect my scope isnt holding zero. I can not manage to dry fire without the reticle moving. When the pin falls the reticle jumps.
 
zfastmalibu said:
I'd like to see some final groups from you guys that have used this method after your done with the seating depth test. Before and after would be cool if you have them. Thanks.

100yd....exact same load at 1000. The 100yd test was fired from a benchrest and the 1000yd was fired from a bipod. 3-1/2" tall by about 5-1/2" wide. Berger 185 Jugg jumped .025 at a 1.5 deg leade.

The 100yd group was smack dab in the middle of 3 groups, all at exactly the same height, with a 3/10th grain change in powder weight between the groups. I took the middle load, verified it at 1000 and have never looked back. The rifle shoots far better than I can hold it in a 20-shot string and elevation is plenty good enough for the most part when you consider I shoot a lot more 9's and 8's to wind :)
 

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are you guys using this same method for the big boomers for working up loads? I was about to begin some load testing for 300 RUM with the amount of powder these puppies chew up and the powder lack of availability wanted to conserve as much as possible... and the shoulder will thank me too! ;D
 
The reticule jump thing is not conclusive. It is pretty common, and I have seen it in scopes that were working. Try the test with a fired case. When you fire the rifle, there is quite a bit of cushioning from the primer, which keeps the shoulder of the pin from banging into the inside of the bolt. Doing tests on a windy day, from a shaky bench is no way to come to any conclusions about a scope. Did you have wind flags out, between you and the target?
 
Erik or whoever has 2 cents,

Is it appropriate If i conduct my test with unfired Lapua brass? I just got my very first batch of Lapua brass and wanted to hopefully kill two birds with one stone.

I was planning on loading up some of my precious Varget using my 175's. I also want to try XBR and BLC-2. I can't find any 4895, RL15 or 4064 at the moment...

I was planning on shooting my strings in the following fashion:

Shoot one round from lowest charge to highest (L to R).
Let barrel cool.
Shoot one round from highest to lowest charge (R to L).
Let barrel cool.
Shoot last and final rounds in string again from Lowest to Highest (L to R).

Any feed back will be greatly appreciated! Great thread and very informative community. Thank you!!!!

I was thinking if I conduct the test find my OCW then using my once fired brass I will be able to fine tune the seating depths and be HAPPY!
 
doctordoctor said:
Erik or whoever has 2 cents,

Is it appropriate If i conduct my test with unfired Lapua brass? I just got my very first batch of Lapua brass and wanted to hopefully kill two birds with one stone.

Timely question. I have just loaded up a bunch of never fired Norma brass for my OCW test.
 
sweet safety in numbers. I am so bored this winter... I can't get to my 600 yard range because of the snow... but i can easily get to a 100 yards. I was hoping to be able to do something productive this winter. We are getting pounded with snow up here (erie, PA)
 
haha, that's not the issue. the issue is the range is out in Amish Country and if I get stuck in my little car I am hosed. No buggy will get me out of that snow. It is deep out there. I don't mind the exercise it is that I could not get remotely close to even consider just "walking in"
 
You can use virgin brass to get close, but you will have to verify after brass has been fireformed.

No need to start low to high then back from high to low. Just shoot your groups starting from the bottom up, stop immediately if you experience pressure signs.
 
I think you need a slightly wider area of powder charges in your testing.

Been there and done that, trying to cut corner and save components and just stumble upon the magic load. If you start at your node you will have a hard time finding your true node. Especially if you are at the end of it you will miss the bottom charge of the window.
 

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