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Let's see your lasers

Countrycustoms said:
I shoot for .01" for both barrels and serial numbers. I do my engraving before any coating or finish work....most of the time. You can do it after, but you have to run an offset cleanup pass to get rid of your slag ridge.
Click to expand...

Dumb question... You achieve that depth by doing multiple passes, right? The machine specs say something like .003 depth - but I'd just do a bunch of passes to get to the desired depth?

I'm sure I'm botching terms here, but you know what I mean
 
Not a dumb question at all. Spot size, wavelength, galvo velocity, repetition rate pulse energy and number of passes all contribute to depth of cut. I know all the factors, but not all the answers.

I spent the last 15 years working for a laser and optics company in research as an engineering technician. I quit to move out of Oregon and focus on homeschooling and gunsmithing.

Tony.
 
Looks like the $400 sale is still active. So tempting. That pays for taxes (Georgia) and shipping...

Can't wait to see your results!

Hank
 
Probably not enough for the price difference. US based support, allegedly tested, US stock, etc.
 
IMG_E56817010A7A-1.jpeg
I’m trying still…I’ve got mine setup.

I am thinking about getting an x/y axis vice to hold the action/barrel in…besides legos, anyone else have another idea they are using?
 
I cut a square notch in a chunk of 2x4 and use a couple of wood shims to clamp the barrel. Bigger problem for me is bumping the table and moving the laser head. Adjusting height can cause shadows too.
 
None that I’ve seen Mike. Rotary’s are mainly used for the cups…at least the laser guys I’ve talked to and used.
 
That's what I gathered from the couple of videos I watched today.

Side note... if anyone has any great getting started resources to share I'd sure appreciate it. The popular youtubers blabber for 45 minutes to give you one good 30 second piece of information. Ain't nobody got time for t;hat.
 
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