Lapping scope rings

[LVLAaron]

Nightforce instructions say to not lap rings, I’m not sure what’s up with that.

And Lapua says to not anneal brass.... But... we do.

 

[AlNyhus]

This was on my to-do list and since this is being discussed, last evening was a good a time to get to it.

I opened the box on this set of new-in-the-box, never installed on anything, Kelbly 30mm black anodized double screw rings. These are matched sets CNC'd from the same billet of aluminum...these are basically perfect rings in terms of alignment and dimensions.

Then, I mounted them on my Kelbly's Panda. With the Panda's integral rail, and precisely CNC'd rings from the same manufacturer, this should be the theoretical 'perfect' when it comes to scope tube contact to the rings. And from shooting Pandas and Kodiaks for over 25 years, I can assure you it doesn't get any better than this when it comes to out-of-the-box stuff. Kelbly's fitment of rings on their rails is that good!

The next step was to take the ground (not turned) 30mm lapping bar and with a bit of 400 grit Clover lapping compound on the rings, a few very light passes were made through the rings. The 400 grit is much finer than I use when lapping prior to bedding of course. But I used it in this instance so as to better illustrate what we're talking about.

Dots can be connected or ignored, as you wish.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[JEFFPPC]

Advanced user’s that know more than the manufacture no doubt.

Think.......If you don't anneal it does not last as long and perform at a high level. They are in the business of selling brass.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Well that’s the argument for selling annealing machines. Myself I’m not qualified to judge out side of my own little program.

Use a seating force gauge and you will see it, with your own eyes. Maybe you don't shoot enough rounds to value extending the life of your brass or do not need the level of precise accuracy some are trying to achieve. Not picking, just making the point every one does not have the same needs or desires.The only fly rod I own I bought for about 10.00 as a teen 60 some years ago. The level of use I need it for requires nothing more. I have had custom built rods from exotic material. I could not appreciate them. I gave them away to friends who could. My old 10.00 rod , a red and, a black ant, and a wet Hairs Ear Nymph is all I need.

 

[JFrank]

Use a seating force gauge and you will see it, with your own eyes. Maybe you don't shoot enough rounds to value extending the life of your brass or do not need the level of precise accuracy some are trying to achieve. Not picking, just making the point every one does not have the same needs or desires.The only fly rod I own I bought for about 10.00 as a teen 60 some years ago. The level of use I need it for requires nothing more. I have had custom built rods from exotic material. I could not appreciate them. I gave them away to friends who could. My old 10.00 rod , a red and, a black ant, and a wet Hairs Ear Nymph is all I need.

If you shoot long range BR like I do, you’ll hear both sides of these topics discussed. I don’t tell other guys how to do anything but the brass I use pretty much last indefinitely and performs at a very high level with nothing more than a quick wipe down. I like cheap fishing rods also..

 

[jelenko]

How many mils thick is that compound applied and how much material do you estimate was taken off ?
Just curious ..

Interesting point.

Is there a way to test the amount of contact between the scope and rings? That way we'd be able to see the difference in contact before and after lapping the rings.

 

[LVLAaron]

Interesting point.

Is there a way to test the amount of contact between the scope and rings? That way we'd be able to see the difference in contact before and after lapping the rings.

Put a very thin layer of prussian blue on the rings, drop the scope in. See what transfers.

 

[AlNyhus]

Interesting point.

Is there a way to test the amount of contact between the scope and rings? That way we'd be able to see the difference in contact before and after lapping the rings.

There's a very easy way to test how much stress is in a scope mounting setup.

With the scope mounted in the rings and the ring tops tightened, place a dial indicator on the top of the scope tube close to a ring, zero it, loosen that ring top and see what it shows. You can also do this at 90 degrees to the top of the scope tube. Doing this on both rings, then on the objective and ocular ends of the scope can be quite revealing.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[Old Navy]

There's a very easy way to test how much stress is in a scope mounting setup.

With the scope mounted in the rings and the ring tops tightened, place a dial indicator on the top of the scope tube close to a ring, zero it, loosen that ring top and see what it shows. You can also do this at 90 degrees to the top of the scope tube. Doing this on both rings, then on the objective and ocular ends of the scope can be quite revealing.

Good shootin' -Al

I think I will try that when it gets nasty out.

 

[boltfluter]

As Al and Boyd said, the action, base, and rings should work as a unit. Everything in the machining world has a tolerance, period. Stacking tolerances is a real thing, and not a good thing. The scope tube is the weak link in all of this. I use Burris Signature rings or lap rings. In my opinion, anything less is leaving money on the table! Just my personal opinion and nothing more.
Paul