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Ingenuity Precision production unit overview

Is anybody running the AND120 off of a inverter/power supply
How clean is power inverted from 12V to 120V using an inexpensive gizmo like the WattFun ?

wattfun.jpg
 
Ive always used an APC surge protection and line conditioner for stable and clean power and surge protection..

 
I use one of these for all my networking equipment and it will run those for at least a week. (firewall, wireless router, cable modem, and voip unit.). They are cheap and it's worked very well through mult outages and brownouts. I'm pretty sure it would run a scale and measure for many days without input.
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 600VA Backup Battery Power Supply, BE600M1 Back-UPS with USB Charging Port

Good unit but I was all wet on the run time. It only lasted 90min. (pulled the wall plug and tested)
 
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I use one of these for all my networking equipment and it will run those for at least a week. (firewall, wireless router, cable modem, and voip unit.). They are cheap and it's worked very well through mult outages and brownouts. I'm pretty sure it would run a scale and measure for many days without input.
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 600VA Backup Battery Power Supply, BE600M1 Back-UPS with USB Charging Port


This 330watt APC UPS you linked will run all your networking equipment (firewall, wireless router, cable modem and VOIP PBX) for over a week with no AC power?

Not possible.. Not even anywhere close. Not even 24hr. What you linked is a 330watt UPS.

This 1500VA / 900watt wont even run that equipment 3 hours on solely battery.



As a network engineer and commercial IT business owner for 18+ years with vast experience on this subject, this isn't even close.

50watts on a 900 watt UPS battery backup will run for a MAX of 2hr 7min. Thats in a perfect world. A typical cable modem alone consumers between 10-35watts. So, even if your cable modem, firewall, WiFI router, and VOIP Unit (whatever that is, I assume a PBX or Asterisk flavor) consumers 50watts total, which it doesn't, on that little 330watt UPS you linked, would have a run time of less than 40min. If your power consumption is over 50watts, which it is, than that runtime drops even more...

Dont take my word for it, here it is for you. APC's very large and $2000 2200watt unit will only run a 50watt load for 5hr 17min...


 
If you say so but during the Feb 2021 ice storm we were without power for 5 days and it all stayed up. Oh wait, we must have had it plugged into a current bush or just imagined it. But you keep thinking like you do, it works for you.

Lolol... math is math. I know it's hard for some. Your uneducated response tells it all. I have one of those exact trash UPS's right here. Brand new in the box and a watt meter. Would you like me to show everyone how long it lasts?
 
Lolol... math is math. I know it's hard for some. Your uneducated response tells it all. I have one of those exact trash UPS's right here. Brand new in the box and a watt meter. Would you like me to show everyone how long it lasts?
didn't you say less than 40 minutes? I'm at 1hr 8min and still here... Maybe neither of us are as good at this as we think.

@padom You were mostly correct. The ups shut off at 90 minutes. No idea what I was thinking about but not even hours let alone days. Thanks for calling me on that, now I know exactly how long it will last. :)
 
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didn't you say less than 40 minutes? I'm at 1hr 8min and still here... Maybe neither of us are as good at this as we think.

@padom You were mostly correct. The ups shut off at 90 minutes. No idea what I was thinking about but not even hours let alone days. Thanks for calling me on that, now I know exactly how long it will last. :)

Lol. Neither of us are good at this? You went from 7 days (168 hours) to 1hr and 30min and I was off by 50min NOT knowing what hardware you had connected or your draw.

I'd say 50min off with zero info on what hardware is plugged in is pretty accurate.

The point of my post was to give factual info for people reading this that could read your post and think they could run out and buy that tiny, cheap UPS and get 7 DAYS of battery backup then be severely let down.

I think I accomplished that
 
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Lol. Neither of us are good at this? Jesus. You went from 7 days (168 hours) to 1hr and 30min.. and I was off by 50min NOT knowing what hardware you had connected or your draw.

I'd say 50min off with zero info on what hardware is plugged in is pretty fucking damn accurate.

The point of my post was to give factual info for people reading this that could read your post and think they could run out and buy that tiny, cheap UPS and get 7 DAYS of battery backup then be severely let down.

I think I accomplished that
Yep, that and much more.
 
This is all good info, but for me I don't care about how long the power will last. I only want a unit that can supply beautiful CLEAN power to my scales. Without noises or interference or spikes and things like that.
Just perfectly clean AC power. If if dies after a few minutes of losing power that's okay. So many units out there "CLAIM" to provide clean AC power but they really don't. Usually turning out to nothing more than an overpriced surge protector. It seems impossible to know which one to trust.
 
What did you use as a line conditioner, if you don't mind sharing? :)
Head down to your local electronics store and they will have plenty on the shelf.
They are split device that you just wrap a couple of turns of the cord {close to the plug} through the middle and then close the choke…. Easy Peasy!
 
That's what you'll gain. The sartorious doesn't seem to drift nearly as badly. It will drift also, but I've only ever seen it drift in the 3rd decimal place. So if left zeroed, I can come back a day later and it might readout .003 or something. That's the worst I've seen so far, and it seems to resolve itself if left alone. Conversely the fx120 sitting an inch away from it will have drifted over a tenth of a grain. I've had that swing show up right in the middle of a session before. It will NEVER be resolved unless I rezero, and so you never even know which lie you're working with.

The Sartorious BCE124-1S is actually the cheapest digital scale that you can buy which will allow even a chance (just a chance) at to-the-kernel repeatability. Whether that will mean anything to you down range will depend on too many other variables.

Yesterday, I zeroed the fx120. I wake up this morning... and this is what I see.
sNTwANFh.jpg


I zeroed the Sartorious when I originally turned it on. I have zeroed it one time since because I moved it around. Since then I haven't needed to rezero. No granite plate. No special anti-static tricks. No weird inline power modification. It just works.

Conversely, I have tried everything imaginable to get the fx120 to not drift. ... and it's not just this one. I've had 3 over the years if memory serves. They all behaved like this. So in my opinion, the Sartorious is the only one even worth buying.
I don't know. My Fx120i rezeros automatically when it drifts. Mine is also just plain on a wooden desk with no special anti-static stuff.

Try for yourself. Drop one kernel of Varget at a time every second or so and stop when the balance reads more than 0.02. Then remove the kernels from the cup and place the cup back on the balance to see what the screen says. To double check, zero with the cup on and then weigh all the kernels at the same time.

The only time it does not auto-zero is when the screen reads more than 0.04gr or less than -0.04gr and leave it for a few hours.

There is a way you can switch this feature off, but that would be stupid.

So those that say the FX120i shows drift after it's been zero'd either played with the settings or wants to slag the FX for some reason.
 

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