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Induction brass annealer redux

MGNZ board.
I have built 3 annealers using his board. It uses an Arduino UNO and the shield he designed ( with all the screw terminals etc is attached to the pins on the UNO)
It comes pre programmed.
I have had my ones running for over 3 years, My own one uses a flux concentrator "C" arrangement like the "Annie" so doesnt require cooling fluid other than fans. It runs on auto for as long as i want to use it. Never had an issue with overheating.
I recently did a batch of 500 .308 cases but that required two sittings... due to me getting tired not the machine.
I think for the money the MGNZ board does a great job. (hope I hvent tempted fate now!!)
If you dont want to learn code but like to tinker with a build this is a good option.
Just looked it up and the board has been operating nearly 4 yrs.
 
Last edited:
kiwijohn said:
MGNZ board.
I have built 3 annealers using his board. It uses an Arduino UNO and the shield he designed ( with all the screw terminals etc is attached to the pins on the UNO)
It comes pre programmed.
I have had my ones running for over 3 years, My own one uses a flux concentrator "C" arrangement like the "Annie" so doesnt require cooling fluid other than fans. It runs on auto for as long as i want to use it. Never had an issue with overheating.
I recently did a batch of 500 .308 cases but that required two sittings... due to me getting tired not the machine.
I think for the money the MGNZ board does a great job. (hope I hvent tempted fate now!!)
If you dont want to learn code but like to tinker with a build this is a good option.
Just looked it up and the board has been operating nearly 4 yrs.
Click to expand...
Hello, can you place the plans for the coil with concentrator?

Thanks
 
@Bora

Litz wire 800 strand .
4mm diameter

two c type ferrite rods. 20mm diameter placed together so butts align.front portion ground down to fit case passing through plus an air gap ... my gap is 12mm so a .308w case passes through. The ferrite is very brittle So go slowly or buy one already made from Fluxeon.
 
kiwijohn said:
Litz wire 800 strand .
4mm diameter
Click to expand...
How did you terminate the Litz wire? Did you get all strands soldered? Are they getting hot? I use Fluxeon ready unit with spliced copper wires for ZVS connection. The diametr of the Litz wire in the coil is well above 8 mm. I do not get any excessive temperature with a duty cycle of 10 sec in continious feedenig mode.
 
@oliverpsmile I used an empty ( fired) .22 case half filled it with solder. Heated with a torch and slowly fed the prepared litz wire end in. I now had a solid core to terminate, I protected the end with heat shrink and threaded over a sleeve of protective mesh for the length of the Litz wire. I have read somewhere ( maybe on here) that people have had success with solid core wire?
I am presently battling with someone elses build that a friend bought, using a pump and conventional hollow tubeing. I am getting issues with overheating, and may well make a ferrite core job of it.

I have no overheating issues with my ferrite core build, but I notice with this rescue job that the surface of the ZVS board and the output terminals it gets very hot quickly.
Winter is approaching here in NZ so it may be a good time to do a build.
The Fluxeon ready unit is tempting but at about $180 + NZD compared to getting a two piece C rod unit for $10 out of Ali express.........
 
I'd love to see the whole construction from start to finish of a flux concentrator in either pictures or a video. Is there anything available to see?
 
kiwijohn said:
I used an empty ( fired) .22 case half filled it with solder. Heated with a torch and slowly fed the prepared litz wire end in. I now had a solid core to terminate, I protected the end with heat shrink and threaded over a sleeve of protective mesh for the length of the Litz wire. I have read somewhere ( maybe on here) that people have had success with solid core wire?
Click to expand...
Since all strands of the Litz wire are insulated it is possible that not all of them are getting soldered and then overheated. Indeed, I have used solid copper wire with Fluxeon ready unit to ZVS. It was very cumbersome to do multiple bindings in order to to fit the space. With my last built I've used very flexible car battery cables . I soldered both ends and then removed the rubber insulation. The splice with the Litz wire end is a regular electrical splice kit (tube with two holding bolts).
 
Last edited:
kiwijohn said:
@Bora

Litz wire 800 strand .
4mm diameter

two c type ferrite rods. 20mm diameter placed together so butts align.front portion ground down to fit case passing through plus an air gap ... my gap is 12mm so a .308w case passes through. The ferrite is very brittle So go slowly or buy one already made from Fluxeon.
Click to expand...
Hello!
Thanks for the explanation, I look for the components on the net.

Regards!
 
Hello again,
cause of my stupidity and amateurism I managed to damage ZVS board badly :( Do you see any chance here to repair it somehow? :( I will order a new one, but it takes couple of weeks to be shipped here in central europe. Thx for any kind of help!
 

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Looks like the output connection posts got ripped off. Also the board surface between the caps and inductors looks funny. Easier to get a new one.
 
Its toast. But I would desolder the heat sinks, and the capacitor banks and any other seperate components. Not just to possibly reuse them but also as practice for your next build.
 
I have a question. When powering the induction board, does it look like a resistive load or an inductive load to the power supply? I.e. will there be inductive kickback when disconnecting the power supply from the annealer board?
 
NemesisXB said:
I have a question. When powering the induction board, does it look like a resistive load or an inductive load to the power supply? I.e. will there be inductive kickback when disconnecting the power supply from the annealer board?
Click to expand...
Yes. Best to put a shunt across the ZVS inputs
 
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