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Induction brass annealer redux

Evening good people, I'm looking to start reloading shortly and obviously looking at the amazing GinaErik annealer. I've read from page 1 to page 150 and the original schematic doesn't seem to be available anymore. I've dabbled a bit with electronics but having a schematic to make sure I'm not doing something crazy would put my mind at rest. Would anyone be willing to PM a copy of the basic original version - I've seen so wild amazing schematics from a few people that have frankly blown my mind and are far more involved that I need. only looking at 100 case load rather than a large volume hopper version.
yours in hope,
Mike (aka Rozza72)
 
rox said:
Beats me. Ask the OP. My coils are fibreglass sleeved.

I use the ceramic cylinders when using the coil for induction hardening (where the object is fully inside the coil, and therefore very hot throughout) , and during annealer testing and development on the bench (i.e. without a 'shelf'). The coil was wound around the ceramic 'lens', so it's a snug fit, and can be easily adjusted up and down in the coil to position the case/object at the right place.
Click to expand...
Please Link to the the ceramic cylinders you use, or send me a PM.
Dave
 
For the circuit diagram and heaps of other related information including fault finding and repair have a look at this website.

1000 Watt ZVS Induction Heater Notes

I've seen many webpages and videos about these (Banggood and others) ZVS Induction Heaters, but they seem to be missing a number of important points which I shall cover here.
www.spaco.org
 
I spent the last couple of months developing my own control board for my annealer. The Arduino is not required, it is for size reference only.

1717677626244.png

I am still busy testing everything out. But so far so good. The firmware is also only about 80% still need a week or 2 to make sure everything is working.

I made a github.io site (still a work in progress), but some info there. https://amev2.github.io/
Firmware will be open source, but it has not been uploaded yet as it is not yet in a good state, but should be soon.

I initially made it for myself and a couple of my friends, but thought it might be useful for others.
It will unfortunately be a bit more expensive than something like the MGNZ board. My board has the current sensor built in. There is a high current low side switch for powering the ZVS board, so no external SSR required. It also has a 12V power supply "built-in" (plugged in on top of the main board). It also has 4 schottky diodes for the low current control of the ZVS board as described in this forum. The idea is to turn on the main power to the ZVS board when starting an anneal session and using the low current switching between cases.
Not confirmed yet but designed to take anything from 12V to 60V input, max current 30A.
It just supports a solenoid and not a servo motor. The reason was that it would require another power supply (5V) to power the servo.
 
Hi
First post here and I have actually spent over 2 weeks of my life ploughing through the previous posts! Ive enjoyed seeing how the project developed and hopefully learned a lot too!
A friend asked me to build one for him. Ive got the bits but as it seems is the way the power supply or the ZVS was DOA. I'm waiting on replacements.

I'm hoping I wont regret agreeing to help him out :)
 
Bonio said:
Hi
First post here and I have actually spent over 2 weeks of my life ploughing through the previous posts! Ive enjoyed seeing how the project developed and hopefully learned a lot too!
A friend asked me to build one for him. Ive got the bits but as it seems is the way the power supply or the ZVS was DOA. I'm waiting on replacements.

I'm hoping I wont regret agreeing to help him out :)
Click to expand...
Good luck and have fun! (especially if your friend is paying for it)

When you get your replacements, test the power supply for output, then test the ZVS board...but, THIS IS IMPORTANT...DO NOT try to run the ZVS board without the coil attached, make sure the coils do not touch (short) anywhere, and probably best to turn on the ZVS board with a switch so that it gets a 'hard' start and not a 'soft' start as the power supply spins up...the induction circuit won't start correctly if you do.
 
Symptoms were that the PSU (600 48v) fan went quiet and the volts dropped to a little over 3v when the SSR closed. I tested the ZVS as best as I could without de-soldering the components because its been returned to amazon. It had a loose heatsink and the mosfets wern't even tight against the heat sinks. I used the guide at spaco.org it all tested OK.

All the bits were bought using links on the MGNZ site including his board and arduino. I turned the voltage down to about 43v using the trimming pot on the PSU.
 
I now have a working zvs, at least it makes the cases hot but even after 8 seconds not glowing. I need to do some more testing I guess. Where should I start? I have turned the PSU up to 47 volts but I am guessint I need to measure amperage somewhere? Could anyone give me a tip on where to wire the meter in please.
TIA

I am using a standard coil that people mention in here, 1/8 pipe I think I wound it around a 28mm cylinder, it was a long time ago :)
 
Bonio said:
I now have a working zvs, at least it makes the cases hot but even after 8 seconds not glowing. I need to do some more testing I guess. Where should I start? I have turned the PSU up to 47 volts but I am guessint I need to measure amperage somewhere? Could anyone give me a tip on where to wire the meter in please.
TIA

I am using a standard coil that people mention in here, 1/8 pipe I think I wound it around a 28mm cylinder, it was a long time ago :)
Click to expand...
How many turns does the coil have?
Do any of the turns touch each other?
What ammeter do you have?
 
7 1/2 turns, its got heat sleeve on it and its held compressed with a couple of tie wraps, at least it did have until it got hot and they melted. I have connected the water cooling up now. Total height is 40mm. I have just measured it and its obviously sprung a bit after winding it because the internal diameter of the coil is now 32 mm.

The ammeter I have available is just on my multimeter which can cope with 10amp allegedly
 
Bonio said:
7 1/2 turns, its got heat sleeve on it and its held compressed with a couple of tie wraps, at least it did have until it got hot and they melted. I have connected the water cooling up now. Total height is 40mm. I have just measured it and its obviously sprung a bit after winding it because the internal diameter of the coil is now 32 mm.

The ammeter I have available is just on my multimeter which can cope with 10amp allegedly
Click to expand...
32mm is getting a little large.

I believe you mentioned your supply is 600 watts, so that would be about 12.5 amps available at 48v. You may pop your fuse in your meter. If you want to risk it, disconnect the + wire from the ZVS board then connect the + lead of the meter to the + of the power supply. Then the - lead of the meter to the + input to the ZVS. Don't put anything in the coil and see what you get.
Make sure none of the turns are touching.
 
Is there a specific inductance I should be aiming for? If I shrink it to 28mm I think the coil would be somewhere near 0.825 uH
 
The inner diameter of my coil is about 27mm 32 may be just a little big. wouldnt worry about the inductance of the coil it will only change the frequency slightly I believe and not change the results.
 
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